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Does anyone here use a Blue Ox Sway Pro? I purchased one last Spring to haul my Arctic Fox 29-L and have not been able so far to make it do it's job. I have a 2016 F-250 S/C and have not been able to level the camper and truck when hitched up. The Sherline tells me that I have 1025 lbs. of tongue weight empty. when hitched up, the front of the camper is 1 1/2 " lower than the back, and the rear of truck visibly squats. I have raised the ball up to the 10th hole ( the shank has 11 holes )so the ball is 1-3/4" higher than the coupler when level. I have called the factory in Nebraska a number of times trying to find a solution, and now the service rep. won't talkto me or return my calls.
It should be noted that the camper does sway at speeds higher than 50 m.p.h. and the laws of physics take over. The factory rep did tell me that I should disable the trailer sway control on my truck, but I have noticed no difference in the ride Any real life suggestions would be appreciated......or should I craigslist it?
Thanks,
Bob
Reading through the owner's manual and watching the YouTube video, what I gleaned is, if your trailer tongue is too low, raise the ball mount on the hitch and if you truck is squatting, increase the spring bar tension. I am thinking you have already tried those things and also checked your spring bars so they match your tongue weight?
I have no scale readings. The nearest cat scale is almost 100 miles away. No picture. They are tearing up the road and driveways for storm sewer, etc.and the camper is at a friends. I will work on posting a close up of the hitch. I have the #1500 spring bars (the next lower size is #1200) due to the tongue weight. The camper weighs #8340 according to the cert. plate, and has a #10400 gvwr. The kitchen is in the front of the camper, and after my wife gets done packing.....I have not had a chance to weigh the tongue when loaded yet. I did not raise the ball any higher because one tech. rep said not to, and another said that I should. I cannot put any more tension on the spring bars, because I can't get the camper high enough to get another link up. (I have a 24" breaker bar that I use).
It's interesting that the new Blue Ox hitch has the bars pre-angled and the hitch itself cannot be adjusted for that angle. I have the old style Blue Ox that requires/allows adjusting the angle of the hitch to get more oomph on the bars.
I don't know that I have mine set up quite right but I do know that the current configuration has my tow vehicle and the trailer level. I had to start from scratch since I have a completely different vehicle from the prior owner (plus I don't think he had it set right at all). I got lucky and managed to get it right the first time.
Bob, how did you decide on the 1500 lb spring bars?
Jim, I went by the cert label weights on the camper. It shows the gvwr at#10,400, the dry weight at 8,340, and empty tongue weight at 1,180. All Arctic Foxes are tongue heavy, and by the time I load the box of the truck and Mama loads the kitchen, it would be over the 1,200 rated spring bars. The next highest size was a 1,500 rating. I talked to the trch. reps at the factory and that is what they advised.
By the way,the bars are not pre bent. they are round where they fit into the hitch head and taper to a flat bar about 8" away. They flex when you put the tension on them.
The problem I have is that I cannot put enough torque on the rotating brackets to take another link up.I use a 24' breaker bar. The one that came with the hitch is useless. I raise the jack up to the end of the stroke but can only take up 9 links. when I take the jack up, the front of the camper is 1"lower than the rear. the rear of the truck is 1 1/2 "lower and the front 1/2" higher when measured at the center of the wheel housing. This is when the camper and truck are empty. I do not know if this height difference is normal or acceptable.
drbbob, if I was you, I'd spend the time to drive the 100 miles to the nearest CAT scale, and spend the hour or two or three that it takes to get all the weights known 100%.
A lot of people don't bother with this, but you are having problems you can't explain and it would be really helpful to know this stuff for sure. Even if it takes all day, it'll be worth your while.
if your jack is out of length, then put a block or two under the jack.
I use a 6x8 and jack the back of the truck up about an inch with the trailer before I tension the chains.
if not for doing that, I'd be in the same boat and there's no way I'd get them tight enough.
at a minimum, you should raise the trailer enough that the draw bar is tight against the top of the receiver tube, since that's where it is going to be when you get the bars tight.
get a big block and grab a few more links, then report back.
I do not have the brand of WDH that you do... but I use a block under trailer nose jack.. and lift the rear of the truck almost 3 inches.. then connect the chain links.. and I used the provided 12 inch pipe.
if truck bed is empty I use link #3,, if motorcycle and stuff is in the truck bed. I use link #4.
my trailer tongue weight is listed as 1,200 pounds.
as already stated.. Scale the truck then the Rig... weight slips will help with setup.
FYI, trailer tags state the weight of trailer.. and NOT always correct.. my trailer is 800 pounds more then the tags "EMPTY."
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