Are there any reasons to pick a "round-bar" weight-distributing system over a "trunnion-bar" system (or vice-versa)? I can see what the difference is visually, but I don't know why I'd pick one over the other.

I'm looking at a 1,000 pound system (though the tongue weight won't likely exceed 600lbs, I like to oversize just in case.)

Also, any great deals on these systems? The full-system price (everything but the ball) seems to generally go for $260-$270, but there must be discounts available out there somewhere. Where?

Thanks!

 

Don't know the difference between types, but the manual highly recommends against "bigger is better". Use spring bars that are the correct rating for your trailer fully loaded. If you think you have a 600# tongue weight, using a 1000# spring bar will cause it to be bouncy and probably sway. I would go with a 750# bar and adjust it lightly.

Good Luck,

Jim henderson

 

J
regarding your post//less is better for wd bars............your opinion is needed.

i pull a 27 foot tt(sprinter), tongue weight 790 lbs.......truck 2002 f350 lb xtra heavy rear springs.

my bars from a previous (smaller tt) are rated 750lbs.....i tow to a seasonal campsite and maybe a few other 300 mile trips per year.

i set the bar in the 3rd link(2 hanging).slight bend in the chain end of the bar....am i safe or not..........my truck rear springs drop one inch and 1/2..handles well , little bounce..........

Dan / ft

 

1000# bars are perfect for a 600# tongue. The tortion come from the tention put on the bars (ie number of links cranked up), not their rating. 1000# bars are only good up to 1000# tongue. I strongly recommend an anti-sway bar also.

Ensure your trailer is level and that you have appropriate weight on the front/rear axles of the tow vehicle (use a scale), and adjust the number of links and/or the U-bolt on the bars to get things just right (equal distribution front/back, 10-15% of TT weight sitting "on" the vehicl, not just the rear axle).

Prior to my 5th/superduty rig, I towed a 28"/5500# TT then a 32'/6500# TT with a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and above system worked great! It is very important when approaching the limit of the tow vehicle to use scales to set things properly. I find the trucker scales are very tolerant when I tell them I am setting up the weight on my "new" rig.

Hope this helps!

Greg

 

You definately need to upgrade to the apropriate bars. Under equiping your truck and towing equipment is never good. Even if you feel it tows great. Given an emergency situation it may not react the way it should or you may loose control. As far as the weight stations I have found in the MAss and NH area that the scales are on even when the station is closed. Just pull up and take the readings through the window.

As far as your first question....with regard to the bars....I am familiar with both. I happen to have a trunion bar setup for my 32' trailer.....which is almost 8000# fully loaded...gear, water, and food. My father has a round bar setup. he pulls a 26' with an expedition. Both seem to tow excellent and both distribute the weight well.

Just an aside. Make sure you start with the ball of your hitch at the height according to your trailer specs.....need to start at the right height for it all to come together.

 

I own a 28' Coachman travel trailer with a max weight of 7,800 lbs which I tow behind my 2001 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 Super Duty. The hitch system is a 10,000 lb Draw-tite WD hitch with springbars rated at 750 lbs.

I have 2 observations from my setup...

1) Get the trailer level. When I bought the trailer, the hitch was set with the trailer nose low when towed behind my truck. It took me some trial & error, but I finally leveled it out. When adjusting the level, you need to have both the trailer & tow vehicle loaded as if you were headed out on a camping trip. Running level just makes everything ride happy and distributes the stress of the road evenly among the trailer's axles.

2) Don't apply more WD spring bar tension than needed. My truck's rear spring capacity is really overkill for the tongue weight of my trailer. In fact, it tows better with very little spring tension on the spring bars. When I first bought my truck, the previous owner had a 1/2 ton pickup which needed a lot of tension to make it ride level and smooth. Not knowing anything about WD hitches, I thought this would be true with my truck also and I strapped it down to the same link. However, during my first trip I found when the bars were tight, my truck bounces and bucks excessively. When I loosen the bars to just snug, it rides as smooth as silk. Start loose and tighten as required.

Edmo

 

Sorry I dont have much experience so I wont comment that way,


But I paid 450$ CAD for at the local trailer shop (called around for best deal on class III hitch install and this was them) I thought it was pricey but its a nice set its E-EAZ Lift brand.

Haven't had a chance to use it yet, as I said not much experience here. Just using a drop bar for tomorrows trip with the dual axle UHAUL car transport. We shall see this summer when I tow the family camper how much of a difference it makes.


Chad