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That is the coil and boot. For motorcraft that's about as good of price as your gonna find if you have an advanced auto near you the usually have them in stock and you can buy online and pickup in store use code trt30 and be close to that. There is another company that makes the coils for motorcraft. Might be standard but can't rember and the price is a little lower there is a write up on here about them. It's not that bad of a job just take your time. Make sure to torque the plugs properly which is even more important since you only have 4 threads per plug hole.
Denso is the manufacturer you are trying to remember. Same coil as Motorcraft for half the price.
The boot is the long rubber part in your picture.
It is pretty straightforward to change spark plugs in these V10s. The back ones can get kinda tight to work on. You may want to rearrange some of the plumbing and wiring, especially next to the AC. Be careful not to snap off any of the electrical connector retainer clips for the coil & injector wires.
All my mod engine coils have been held on by 7mm headed bolts. You may want to have a long reach magnetic pick-up tool if you are prone to dropping things, those little bolts come out with the coil and are not "captive".
If it is not currently misfiring, it is a waste of money to replace the coils. Just replace the boots when you change the spark plugs. The boot kit (= 1 boot, 1 kit) should include the spring inside the boot that is the conductor between the coil and plug. Check for that at the parts counter to make sure someone didn't snag a spare.
Do NOT put dielectric grease on the spring contacts, only a thin bit on the inside of the plug end of the boot is all you will ever need. It helps the boot slide off the plug next time and helps provide a watertight seal. Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor.
Motorcraft platinum plugs.
Pull the coil off, blow out the hole it was in with compressed air before you try to remove the spark plug. Some people go straight to a penetrant to loosen the crud around the plug, some like to slightly back the plug off first then squirt it. It is never a bad idea to squirt it. Blow it out gain before you remove the spark plug. Passenger side is hardest, if you start there it makes the other side seem easy.
SAMs right on. I would only include to use anti seize on the plug threads before re-installing, use duct tape to hold your sockets and extensions together, and be sure to understand how the cop clip works to unplug it. Once you've got it down, all goes pretty well.
Well, I dove into this yesterday on the cylinder reported as misfiring. The was an exploration/experiment on my part, not an attempted repair. Here are my, albeit humble, observations:
I managed to get the #3 COP out without having to loosen the fuel rail. However, to get access/room I did remove the a) PCV hose and b) some doodad bolted to a triangular mount above the valve cover.
After removing the COP/Boot combo I did blow out the recess with compresse air. I am here to tell you that so much dirt came out that it created a cloud of dust!. I then broke the plug free, but did not remove it. I blew out the recess a second time. I then completely loosened the plug and use a telescoping magnet to get it out of the recess.
I removed the boot from the COP, inspected and cleaned it. I found rust on the spring conductor which I cleaned up. I reinstalled the boot on the cop and did put a half-dab of dielectric grease on the very end of the boot. I cleaned and gapped the plug (which looked remarkably good) and put anti-seize on the thread.
I put it all back together, torquing the plug to 20-25 lbs. ft.
Now I must drive the truck a bit to see if it is still throwing a misfire code. It did not seem to be misfiring at idle or when I moved the truck from the garage to the street.
The COP in question bore these markings, leading me to believe they are factory original: EE03A 1L2U-12A366-AA 1C2252
What this endeavor told me was, that I am too old and inpatient to even begin thinking I could, or should, undertake myself to change out the COPs and plugs on the back 2 cylinders in each bank (4 & 5 and 9 & 10).
NOW, A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS -
1. The plug (AGSF22WM) inner electrode had a small rounded tip, instead of the flat ones I am used to seeing. Is that how it should be?
2. If I showed up at the Ford dealership service desk with the the truck, 4 COPs and 4 plugs and said I want these installed on cylinders 4,5, 9 and 10 would they do it?
This gets more and more confusing. I get a constant P0171 (System Too Lean (Bank 1) with random P030_ misfire codes (303, 304, 305, 306).
Am I not correct that 303 thru 305 are all in the same bank (1-left-Passenger Side)? It seems the random misfire is now going to the other bank; what with a P0306 code?
Could this all be because of a clogged cat? What/Where should I be looking?
Check the infamous pcv elbow over the right front pass valve cover. It cracks and creates a vacuum leak, pulling a P0170 or 171. Left or right bank.
They crack and can fool you into other issues.
However, a P0306 is the #6 plug misfire, as are all last digit locations.
Right side cylinders from front 1-4, left side 5-8.
I'd fix the vacuum leak first, then explore more with cop's.
Check the infamous pcv elbow over the right front pass valve cover. It cracks and creates a vacuum leak, pulling a P0170 or 171. Left or right bank.
They crack and can fool you into other issues.
However, a P0306 is the #6 plug misfire, as are all last digit locations.
Right side cylinders from front 1-4, left side 5-8.
I'd fix the vacuum leak first, then explore more with cop's.
With conventionally mounted engines in Fords, "right" and "left" are referenced from sitting in the driver's seat, not standing in front of the bumper staring at the engine in confusion. Start with the designation of left hand drive (North America, for example) and right hand drive (England, Australia, other former British colonies, etc) and work from there.
With conventionally mounted engines in Fords, "right" and "left" are referenced from sitting in the driver's seat, not standing in front of the bumper staring at the engine in confusion. Start with the designation of left hand drive (North America, for example) and right hand drive (England, Australia, other former British colonies, etc) and work from there.
Good point SHO.
Not thinking about non USA standards but obviously a worldwide perspective. Sitting here in my own little world!
