Bank 1 = Right side (from behind engine); Got it!

Which confirms my previous comment that now the detected misfire has crossed over to Bank 2 = Left side.

Even though a P0306 code has been thrown, I have not seen any P0174 codes (Bank 2) as of yet?

And, I am in America; just still hangin'out in the previous century when we determined engine right/left while standing in front of the engine, not behind it?

 

It has never been that way in any country. Vehicle right & left has always been determined based on seated driving position. And engine right and left based on the installed position in the vehicle.

 

A lean code has nothing to do with the misfire. Whole different code.

Did you switch any of the COPs from one side to the other? Could be that you need to change all the spark plugs and boots all at once.

 

No cops have been switched. While the one plug I inspected did not look bad. The gap was wide, so I cleaned it, regapped it and put it back in. This was on Cyl #3, where I first had the misfire code. That plug hole was filthy and full of dirt! I did blow it out with compressed air.

On resolving the the Cyl #3 misfire I began to get a P0304 code, which stopped and now a P0306 misfire code.

 

So all you have done to address your multiple misfires is to clean out one plug hole then remove and regap the plug and then you reinstalled the same plug?
Is that accurate?
If so, then I suggest that you change all your spark plugs and boots and see where that gets you.

 

Two more things to look at...
If you have dirt in the plug bores, the tops of the coil boots aren't sealing to the bores. One or more of those bores could have moisture in them which could cause intermittent misfire. I put a dab of dielectric grease on the sealing ribs at the top of the boot as well as the tip. I also inspect each bore and plug seat with a mirror and flashlight before installing the plugs.


Check your plug boots carefully. If there is blow by from a loose plug or bad plug seat the boot will shrink a bit from the heat and have an hour-glass shape instead of a straight taper from top to bottom. I use NAPA boots, as they are light grey in color and will discolor if they get hot, making a bad coil spring connection or dreaded blow-by easier to spot. The black Motorcraft boots will discolor also, but it is harder to see. They tend to look a bit brownish on the end if they've overheated.


Good Luck!

 

I would say your summary, above, is about 110% accurate. You see, I am an old codger who is retired, drives the truck very little and takes life at a slower pace these days. It is a luxury in which I am able to indulge!

I have been acquiring spare parts; spark plugs, COPS (2 so far) and looking for other parts that may be needed (fuel injectors).

I was told here that Denso is the manufacturer of the COPs. So I have 2 new ones from them in hand. Interestingly, the boot seems to be integrated into those COP units and is not removable?

I have since found boots at NAPA for a good price ($3.60/ea.).

I have been putting this off as I do not know if I am a) nimble and b) patient enough to get at the #5, 6, 9 & 10 cylinders. There does not appear to be a whole of working room at the back of the engine?

If all goes as planned, I shall be into this project tomorrow, up to my elbows and ears!

 

Very good points, of which I shall take advantage. Thanks!

See my post, immediately above, referencing NAPA boots. They are the ones I intend to use.

 

Best advice you are going to get here; put down something comfortable to lay on. Get a couple of old blankets or/and a big body pillow. Disconnect the battery and lay on your belly across that area. Figure out your handholds ahead of time to be sure of what you can grab to support your weight and what you might break if you lean on it.
And be careful getting back down. You may want to have a good wide step stool there. I am 6' even, and I found this setup very useful and comfortable.

If you start on the passenger side, the driver side will seem easy.

To gain clearance, you may want to begin by rerouting some of the passenger side plumbing to gain better access. There are hoses to the heater core and a PCV pipe + other various stuff back there. As I recall there is a vacuum junction or electrical bracket of some sort hanging off the cowl that I unbolted but I didn't remove anything off it. Just having it loose seemed to make reaching all the way back easier.

On the driver side, I believe all I did for clearance was remove the air inlet tube between the filter housing and the throttle body.

The new coil + boot may appear to be a unified unit but the boot is a separate piece. Don't separate them! You want them to have a good bond.

One of those magnetic bolt trays is really handy for not losing the coil bolts and for keeping up with the various extensions you will use.

Since you already have them, I would put the 2 new coils on #5 & #10. Just because.

 

My truck does not have a right or left side. It has "driver's side" and a "passenger's side". So FAR, I haven't had to tell anyone it was made for the American market....

 

Years ago I had an old camper which only had a single pull-out step. It was too high for our small children. I built a two step "stair" to place on the ground and extend the steps. That camper is long gone, but I still have that stair. I use now when working in the engine bay and have built a couple for friends who also work on their own vehicles.


It has two steps, one about 5" high and the second about 10" high. The lower step is one 2x6 wide, the upper two 2x6's wide. It is about 24 inches long. It is made from scrap dimensional lumber. It is small enough to move easily, but sturdy and big enough to move around on a little.


The part mounted to the AC housing on those three studs is the fuel vapor canister purge valve. I simply remove mine and set it aside, then tuck the hoses up out of the way. Unplug the wiring harness, remove the nuts and then the hoses. Not too tough to do and it makes access a lot easier.

 

I have a step, that slips over the top of the tire .
They do mass produce them , but I found mine in a pile of scrap that was being hauled away.
Mine is adjustable , to move the step up or down as needed .
Others I have seen are not.

Unfortunately there is no manufacture tag or stamping , or I would tell you the name .
This has been a very handy gadget for working over the fender .

 

I think this is what you are talking about:


Wheel Step Accessory Step | etrailer.com


These are a good idea. I've had really good experiences with Etrailer.com, too.

 

I worked for about 30 min today trying to put a COP boot back in upside down. Doesn't fit that way . Still, I worked more than 4 hours today and only got three plugs replaced. This is on an E350, so the back two plugs on the right side, and the rear left one were not silly hard (after I figured out the COP boot).

The PO replaced the COPs, but didn't do the plugs! Pretty sure they are original - nearly 20 years old and 144kmi on them. Not surprised it messes under load!

My question is: there was a significant amount of oil in the #3 (on the right side) plug well. Likely source? I also could not break it loose on my first couple of attempts. Going to try again tomorrow.

Thanks for all the posts. They were a big help.

 

"My question is: there was a significant amount of oil in the #3 (on the right side) plug well. Likely source? I also could not break it loose on my first couple of attempts. Going to try again tomorrow."


Most likely it is from the PVC valve/tube since it is closest to that plug bore. Goes from the valve cover to the throttle body. Check to see if it is oily or if the inlet to the throttle body is obstructed. (Take a piece of clean tubing that fits snugly into in the tube or over the PVC valve and see if you can blow through it.) The elbows on these tubes can crack also. There is a previous post on this thread....


Soak that #3 plug bore with brake cleaner overnight. If you get it to turn even a quarter turn, you can spray a little more brake cleaner in there and let it soak a little more to loosen any carbon on the plug threads before taking the plug out the rest of the way.