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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Oil and Coolant Temp Sensor

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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 07:27 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Going to need a few more clues to track down the yellow/black wire. Like, what connector is it in? Or, what other wires are in that connector?

Not sure what you mean by "battery voltage wire"as there was no volt meter, but the charge/alternator witing is here: Charge & Power Distribution - ???Gary's Garagemahal.
The wire was taped up along with the oil and water temp sensor wires in the bundle of eight which go to the ignition coil and distributor. It does not have a end in because it has been cut which leads me to believe it had something to do with the gauges because all of the gauge wires were cut.

The volt meter I am speaking of is the gauge in the dash that says "charge" under it. I may be calling it the wrong thing.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 07:53 AM
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While I am on the subject of wires, the carb manual said to plug the electric choke wire into an accessory fuse plug. I don't know where that is because my fuse box is not labeled. Can I just put the positive wire under a 15 fuse?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:17 AM
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Ok, got it. What you meant by "volt meter" is the ammeter. An ammeter is like a flow gauge on a pipe, meaning it shows how much current/water is flowing, while a volt meter shows how much "pressure" is in the line. Anyway, the wires to it are the red/orange and yellow/light green ones shown on Page 15 here: Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines - ???Gary's Garagemahal.

As for the choke and your fuse box, the fuse positions are shown here: Fuse Panel & Circuit Protection - ???Gary's Garagemahal. And you can use one that is powered only when the key is on.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:25 AM
  #19  
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Perfect! Thanks. I'll look for those wires. So a fuse like #10 in the diagram that is not even used would work or would I need a specific fuse size like a 5 or 15?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:43 AM
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I'm not sure if #10 has any power to it as I don't see it even mentioned in this diagram: Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines - ???Gary's Garagemahal. But, if it has power in On then that would be perfect. Otherwise, pick on that would be used normally but your truck doesn't have that option - if that is the case. For instance, the power windows one.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:47 AM
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OK great. Power windows would be perfect because my truck does not have that. What is the blue section within the power window fuse (#14) on the garagemahal website?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:48 AM
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My truck does have power tailgate window though. Can I still use this fuse if that is the case?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:54 AM
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The blue thing is showing there's something on the back side of the fuse block.

But, I forgot that the power windows/rear window use a circuit breaker, and it is too big for the small wire you'll be using to the choke. You'd be better off using something smaller, like the one to the radio.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 09:26 AM
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OK. I'll use 11. I followed the yellow black wire all the way back to the connector and it was spliced right at the connector. It was a red wire with diagonal yellow dashes over the top. It is the leftmost wire in the connector. i'll take another look at the diagram and see if I can locate it.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 09:26 AM
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The connector it goes into has 6 wires and then they go into the bundle that goes through the firewall.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 09:37 AM
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A picture would help considerably.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 11:29 AM
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Its the red one with yellow dashes. In the photo with the connector it is the one with the tape on it. After the connector it goes into the firewall.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 02:03 PM
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Does it matter if the wire when plugged into the fuse box touches both prongs or just one?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hharris8
Does it matter if the wire when plugged into the fuse box touches both prongs or just one?
You would want to be on the load side of the fuse for it to protect your new wire from overload.

Although many here will say otherwise, why don't you use something like the Bussmann add-a-fuse?
At least then you know you have a solid and insulated connection for your hijacked circuit
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
You would want to be on the load side of the fuse for it to protect your new wire from overload.

Although many here will say otherwise, why don't you use something like the Bussmann add-a-fuse?
At least then you know you have a solid and insulated connection for your hijacked circuit
I look at the Bussman add-a-fuse. How can I tell what side is the load side?
 
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