Been changing spark plugs since I was 12. Never had a problem getting any out. Until now. 300-6, they're rusted in. The first one I have broken off the ceramic. Tried air impact on low setting. Gave them a good soaking of PB. Will let them soak awhile. They go in at an angle, hard to get a good bite on them. Would the air impact turned up full blast cause bad things to happen?

 

If you can start the engine to heat it up that would help the penetrating oil to creep in. Also with the socket on the plug and a brass drift and a good hammer bang the hell out of it a few times. Then try the impact wrench on low and gradually increase the torque.

 

If the PB doesn't work then I would suggest Jackson's (Trozei) formula. A while ago now he posted that the best penetrant in the world is 1/2 Acetone (wife's fingernail polish remover if she's got the good stuff) and 1/2 A/T fluid. He's up in Canada (aay) so he deals with rust.

 

Maybe on 'some' things. It sure didn't work on my stuck pistons even after 3 days of soaking on each side. (bottom & top of piston) Had to destroy the rods/pistons to hammer them out. BUT, the mix did work on getting the lifters out. Go figure..

Dan

 

Shamelessly stolen from (somewhere) on the world wide web:

I've done some reading on the net about what the most potent penetrating fluid is, and ran across this study that I thought I'd share. Sorry if this has already been posted but it might help someone out. Be aware that acetone will lift/destroy any paint it comes in contact with, but with heavily rusted parts that's probably the last of your worries.

Freeing frozen fasteners

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For all of you that are mechanically inclined and dealing with frozen fasteners:

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a home brew mix of 50/50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is about as good as Kroil for about 20% of the price.

 

Regardless of some/any mix/product, whatever works to do the job is what's needed. No need to argue ANY points of what's best. Try them all before you give up. If you find/discover something new, let the world know! We're all here to help each other.

Dan

 

This is what I'm dealing with. Theses plugs have been in for 10 - 20 years. The pickup has sat unused most of that time. I used a pick to scrape the rust, and blew it out. I'm going to put the PB to them and get the engine hot and try it then.

 

I changed my plugs after buying my truck a year or so ago and some were really hard to remove. I used a long handled ratchet to get leverage and they broke loose.

Maybe consider calling the tech help line at one of the plug manufacturers to see if they have any advice.

 

Based on the location of that plug its the front one. There is plenty of room to get the old torch in there and heat thing up, if you need to. The last time I did I6 300 plugs it was the back plug that I had trouble with. Some penetrating oil and a little time did the trick. Good luck and let us know how you made out.

 

I think that's why he posted the list.

 

I'm sorry I don't get to post much due to a busy work schedule. I also have no time to work on the pickup. However, I was able to get the plug out after running the engine to get it hot and putting the air impact on it at full blast. So now I know how I will get the rest out.

 

A lot of neglect on this motor.
Do what you can with heat and penetrant. If nothing else works, get the next smallest deep millimeter socket and hammer the m/f down on the plug. Do a Toothless Jake pluck.

Semper Fi

 

CHANGE PLUGS MORE OFTEN. WELD EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO HEAD. NO GASKET REQUIRED. BOLT ON ANOTHER HEAD. FIT ANOTHER ENGINE. BUY ANOTHER TRUCK. WELL SOMETHING WITH A COMPUTER, TO DRIVE ITSELF FOR YOU. JUST TRY HARDER, THINK FOR YOURSELF. YOU DON'T NEED YOUR HAND HELD. YOU CAN DO IT WE ALL HAD TO START SOMETIME. NO SILLY QUESTIONS ONLY SILLY ANSWERS. GOOD LUCK. PLEASE IGNORE MY RANT. APOLOGIES.

 

Unlax the caps button and stop screaming at us.
The guy has a legitimate problem: A plug won't come out.
Can you restate your rant in simple terms and help him?

 

Some folks type in upper case because they cannot see lower case and are too vain to wear readers.... Just say'in.