Hey guys. I just picked up a 2011 Ford F350 about 8 months ago.
I have had troubles with the check engine light coming and going. Now it's been on for good with loss of power. I have had the codes read and they came up as the p0401 and a code about the def heater. I can not remember that code off the top of my head.
After some searching I have found a video about the def heater but nothing about the Egr cooler/valve.
Is there anything out there about how to clean and remove the the cooler as I will be needing to do repairs myself as the truck has no warranty.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thank you
Mitch

 

To the best of my knowledge there is no known proven way to effectively clean the EGR cooler - especially if it is mostly plugged. The core should be replaced. I don't think they are all that expensive.

 

Love reading your posts and thank you for participating on FTE...

I wonder how this comment dovetails with these threads about simple soap and water clean-up.

Link1

Link2

Link3

Bruce...

 

Carbon is water soluble. It's the crap that comes with it that can make it difficult but the problem with cleaning the core is that the passages are long and thin. If they are plugged you cannot get any cleaning solution into them and therefore they cannot be cleaned. You will not be able to force any solution either. I suppose with enough persistence cleaning is possible but at what point does the amount of time and effort become unreasonable? These are the reasons why Ford will not even entertain the idea of cleaning them. But if there was I am positive Ford would mandate that we clean them rather than replace them under warranty. But if you have several days or weeks to soak an EGR cooler core let us know how you make out. I wonder if ultrasonic cleaning would be effective... but wait, there is expense in that too which would likely begin reaching the cost of simply replacing the core... Hot tanks, chemical cleaning... raises the chance of damaging the core and subjecting the core to failure possibly causing severe engine damage...

...just thinking out loud here.

 

Thank you for your replys. Is there any write ups on how to remove the cooler? It looks a bit scary going into it with no info on how to do it.
Thanks
Mitch.

 

Check the link below for a good write up with pics. It's more aimed at cleaning the valve but should be of help anyway. If you're not a member you may need to sign up to see the pics.

Can you clean the EGR valve - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

Good find thank you!
Any more post out there?
Mitch

 

You need to bite the bullet and delete it. I had the same code then tried to do it myself and swapping the core is not easy. I was having issues getting it back in and called a diesel guy near me for help and he talked me into deleting it and I fell back in love with my truck. Your probably kicking yourself for buying the truck and your wifes not helping with her I told you not to buy it speech. I couldn't get the core back into the housing far enough and kept thinking of how I could of caused more damage with a coolant leak. I spent the money called Rudys and couldn't of been more happy. The truck was running stronger than ever and I didn't have to worry about the egr or dpf. You can buy a tuner off ebay for like $500-$800, egr delete kit for $100, and a delete pipe for $150 or so. Good luck if you do it yourself. Here directions

SECTION 303-08: Engine Emission Control
2011 F-250, 350, 450, 550 Super Duty Workshop Manual
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
Procedure revision date: 02/13/2013
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler — 6.7L Diesel


Material Item Specification Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated
VC-3-B (US); CVC-3-B2 (Canada) WSS-M97B44-D Disassembly
NOTICE: Caution must be observed when removing the EGR cooler core as to avoid sealing flange scratches or damage to the sealing surfaces may occur.
NOTICE: Do not attempt to remove the cooler core by prying between the header plate and housing or damage to the cooler core and housing will occur.

1. Remove the 4 bolts, 2 stud bolts and the EGR cooler end tank.
   • Discard the EGR cooler end tank gasket.

1. Remove the 10 bolts and the EGR valve and bypass assembly.
   • Discard the 10 bolts and bypass gasket.

1. Using 2 equal lengths of wood or 2 equal length hammer handles, insert them into the opening at the EGR cooler end tank until they touch the EGR cooler core.

1. NOTE: A snug fit of the wood will keep the wood from falling out of the EGR cooler and will aid in the removal of the EGR cooler core.
   NOTE: The EGR cooler O-ring seals are very robust and will hold the cooler core very tight in the EGR cooler housing.
   Holding the EGR cooler housing, strike the EGR cooler housing down on the wood forcing the EGR cooler core out of the housing.
   • Discard the EGR cooler core gasket.

1. Remove the 4 EGR cooler core insulators.

1. Remove and discard the 2 EGR cooler O-ring seals and clean O-ring seal seat on the EGR cooler housing.

1. NOTE: Gaskets are sensitive to debris and surface defects, sealing surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned before new gaskets are installed.
   NOTE: Scratches as shown may lead to leaks.
   Inspect all cooler sealing surfaces for defects that may lead to a leak path. If defects are found, replace the components as required.

Assembly

1. Using 2 new O-ring seals, install the O-ring seals in the EGR cooler housing and lube the O-ring seals with clean engine coolant to ease installation.

1. NOTICE: Inspect the new EGR cooler core gasket for correct location, it is marked COOLER SIDE on the upper left hand corner. Incorrect installation of this gasket could result in an internal coolant leak to the exhaust and severe engine damage.
   Using a new EGR cooler core gasket, marked "cooler side", install the EGR cooler gasket on the cooler core as shown.

1. Install the 4 EGR cooler core insulators.

1. NOTICE: Handle the EGR cooler core and housing assembly carefully as the EGR cooler core could slide out of the housing and damage to the EGR cooler core may occur.
   Install the EGR cooler core into the EGR cooler housing, using even pressure to seat on the O-ring seals.

1. NOTICE: Inspect the new bypass gasket for correct location, it is marked BYPASS SIDE on the upper right hand corner. Incorrect installation of this gasket could result in an internal coolant leak to the exhaust and severe engine damage.
   Install the bypass gasket as shown.

1. Using 9 new bolts and 1 new EGR valve long center bolt, install the EGR valve and bypass assembly and the 10 bolts and tighten in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
   • Stage 3: Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in) and then an additional 90 degrees.

Using a new EGR cooler end tank gasket, install the EGR cooler end tank, 4 bolts and 2 stud bolts and tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages:

1.  
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).

 

Great post jenskie! Any chance you have a write up/ directions to get the cooler out of the truck?
And funny you say "why did I buy this truck". Just today the truck shut off on me with the wife and baby while looking at a house due to a bad egt sensor. She's not happy Nor was I. Especially after I punched a hole through my steering wheel. Stupid... That will be a new thread.
Thanks guys!
Mitch.

 

I'm not joking my 2011 had a egt sensor go out about a month after I bought it and the truck gave me the "pull over safely" warning so I ended up having it towed to the dealer and paid for them to change out the sensor. This is before I new if you pulled over for 30 minutes and let the egt sensor cool then it'll start again and you can go until it heats back up. It's acting like a safety so you don't overheat something. They are also easy to change if you know which is acting up. I do believe there is a recall now concerning some of the egt sensors and a new extended warranty with some. I got a letter in the mail awhile back. This is the write up to remove the egr but you should go online and buy the cd off ebay. Also from what I've heard you should treat the bolts with penetrating oil a day before you plan on working on it to help loosen the bolts because they can break off and get the truck warmed up to heat them up. Mine came off fine with no problems. Another thing is if you haven't got the Torque App and the special 6.7 PIDS then you should do it. Like $5 for the app and another $5 for a bluetooth OBDII reader to plug in and you can monitor a ton off cool stuff and read any codes.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler — 6.7L Diesel


Material Item Specification Motorcraft® Threadlock 262
TA-26 WSK-M2G351-A6 Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .

1. Drain the secondary cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03C .

1. Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) assembly and ACL outlet pipe. For additional information, refer to the Intake Air System Components — Exploded View, 6.7L Diesel in Section 303-12 .

1. Remove the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C .

1. Disconnect the 3 coolant hoses from the EGR cooler assembly.
   • Detach the wiring harness and coolant hose retainer from the bypass.

1. Disconnect the EGR valve and Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor — secondary cooling system ECT 2 electrical connectors.
   • Detach the wiring harness retainer.

1. Disconnect the electrical connector and vacuum hose from the bypass valve solenoid.

1. Remove the 2 RH upper sound shield retainers.

1. Remove the 2 bolts for the wiring harness bracket from the front of the bypass.

1. Remove the 2 bolts and the EGR valve inlet tube bracket.
   • Discard the 2 bolts.

1. NOTE: EGR cooler side shown, exhaust manifold side similar.
   Remove the 4 bolts and the EGR valve inlet tube.
   • Remove and discard the 2 EGR valve inlet tube gaskets.

1. Detach and disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature (EGRT) electrical connector.

1. Remove the 4 bolts and the bypass outlet tube.
   • Discard the EGR valve outlet tube gaskets.

1. Detach the 2 wiring harness retainers from the back of the EGR cooler.

1. Remove the Exhaust Pressure (EP) sensor tube nut.

1. NOTE: EGR cooler assembly must be lifted off the 2 alignment pins before removal.
   NOTE: While removing the EGR cooler it may be necessary to reposition the EP sensor tube.
   Remove the 7 bolts and the EGR cooler assembly.
   • Discard the 2 EGR cooler assembly gaskets.

Installation

1. NOTE: Make sure the EP sensor tube is aligned on the stud bolt on the back of the EGR cooler.
   Using 2 new EGR cooler assembly gaskets, install the EGR cooler assembly on the alignment pins and install the 7 bolts.
   • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) in sequence shown.

1. Install the EP sensor nut.
   • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

1. Attach the 2 wiring harness retainers to the back of the EGR cooler.

1. Using new gaskets, install the bypass outlet tube and the 4 bolts.
   • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

1. Connect and attach the EGRT electrical connector.

1. NOTE: EGR cooler side shown, exhaust manifold side similar.
   Using 2 new EGR valve inlet tube gaskets, install the EGR valve inlet tube and the 4 bolts. Tighten the bolts in the following sequence.
   • Tighten the bolts at the exhaust manifold to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Tighten the bolts at the EGR cooler to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

1. NOTE: Apply threadlock to the EGR cooler side bolt threads prior to installation.
   Install the EGR valve inlet tube bracket and the 2 new bolts. Tighten in 4 stages:
   • Stage 1: Tighten the EGR valve inlet tube bracket bolt at the EGR cooler to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 2: Tighten the EGR valve inlet tube bracket bolt at the EGR cooler an additional 45 degrees.
   • Stage 3: Tighten the EGR valve inlet tube bracket bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 4: Tighten the EGR valve inlet tube bracket bolt an additional 45 degrees.

1. Install the 2 bolts for the wiring harness bracket to the front of the bypass.
   • Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

1. Install the 2 RH upper sound shield retainers.

1. Connect the electrical connector and vacuum line to the bypass valve solenoid.

1. Connect the EGR valve and ECT sensor — secondary cooling system ECT 2 electrical connectors.
   • Attach the wiring harness retainer.

1. Connect the 3 coolant hoses to the EGR valve cooler assembly.
   • Attach the coolant hose retainer to the bypass.

1. Install the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C .

1. Install the Air Cleaner (ACL) assembly and ACL outlet pipe. For additional information, refer to the Intake Air System Components — Exploded View, 6.7L Diesel in Section 303-12 .

1. NOTICE: Evaluate the cooling system condition before filling the engine and the secondary cooling systems. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the engine or the secondary cooling system.
   Evaluate the engine and the secondary cooling systems condition. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in Section 303-03B or Section 303-03C .

 

This is also very helpful.
http://www.flopro.com/tech/mnl/fordegr.pdf