M5R2 problems...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
The oil and friction of the bearings would be thick enough to cause the output shaft to spin. Put the transfercase back into gear, have someone push the clutch in and see if you can still turn the input shaft.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2016
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When the transmission was in the truck it would idle with the clutch depressed(input shift spinning) but as soon as I started to release it the truck would bog down and shut off if I let it all the way out. That's why I think it's the transmission binding up. The truck also doesn't lurch forward or backwards just bogs down as if I let out the clutch with my foot on the brake and in gear.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Okay, lovely but you still haven't answered my question. With the output shaft locked (wheels on the ground), can you spin the input? The input shaft is directly connected to that small gear closest to the engine. You should be able to spin it by hand.
If not, then the transmission is still in gear. The 1st-4th shift collars are all in neutral, so if the transmission does not turn still, then your problem is in the 5th/Reverse section, regardless of whether or not the shift fork appears to be in neutral. Extreme wear is common on the 5th/Reverse fork.
If not, then the transmission is still in gear. The 1st-4th shift collars are all in neutral, so if the transmission does not turn still, then your problem is in the 5th/Reverse section, regardless of whether or not the shift fork appears to be in neutral. Extreme wear is common on the 5th/Reverse fork.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
So is the transmission out of the truck? Or still in?
If in, then start with clutch pushed and see if you can let it out now and not stall motor.
If the box is out of the truck, spin the input and see if the output can be held stationary(typically it will try to turn even in neutral as drag/friction). If it still is "in gear" then you need to figure out which gear is holding it.
Take a small flat blade screwdriver and try to wiggle the brass blocker rings. They should move just slightly side to side. They are the brass rings with teeth that are between the gears and the slider. Those rings should float, if you find one that is tight, then that one is likely bound up on the gear and making it think it is in gear.
That shifter bushing could be the issue. Like I mentioned if that is messed up it might try to put in two gears at once. If you can spin the shafts free without the shifter top on, then it could be the lid.
If in, then start with clutch pushed and see if you can let it out now and not stall motor.
If the box is out of the truck, spin the input and see if the output can be held stationary(typically it will try to turn even in neutral as drag/friction). If it still is "in gear" then you need to figure out which gear is holding it.
Take a small flat blade screwdriver and try to wiggle the brass blocker rings. They should move just slightly side to side. They are the brass rings with teeth that are between the gears and the slider. Those rings should float, if you find one that is tight, then that one is likely bound up on the gear and making it think it is in gear.
That shifter bushing could be the issue. Like I mentioned if that is messed up it might try to put in two gears at once. If you can spin the shafts free without the shifter top on, then it could be the lid.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2016
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Likes: 0
Sorry for the confusion guys. The transmission is out of the truck and in my garage right now. Just tried really hard to hold the output while I spun the input and it's definitely locked into some gear. I understand what you're saying about friction but I believe it was way too tight to be just that. So just to clarify 3/4 and R all will not go in gear at all. 1/2 and 5 all go in gear very easily
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Ok. Thanks for clarifying that.
So, with the sliders in NEUTRAL position, it still won't freewheel.
When you try to shift it, as you just moving the sliders or are you using the shifter/top installed?
So, with the sliders in NEUTRAL position, it still won't freewheel.
When you try to shift it, as you just moving the sliders or are you using the shifter/top installed?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Alright, so since it's definitely locked into a gear, we need to figure out which gear.
Make an easy to see mark on the input and output shaft. What you'll want to do is count how many turns of the input shaft it takes for the output shaft to make one revolution.
The M5OD R2's ratios are as follows:
1st: 3.90:1
2nd: 2.25:1
3rd: 1.50:1
4th 1.00:1
5th: 0.80:1
R: -3.39:1
So if it's stuck in 1st, it will take almost 4 turns of the input shaft for the output to spin once. If it's in 3rd, it will take about 1 1/2 turns for the output to spin once. If it is in 5th, it will take just about 3/4 of a turn.
Make an easy to see mark on the input and output shaft. What you'll want to do is count how many turns of the input shaft it takes for the output shaft to make one revolution.
The M5OD R2's ratios are as follows:
1st: 3.90:1
2nd: 2.25:1
3rd: 1.50:1
4th 1.00:1
5th: 0.80:1
R: -3.39:1
So if it's stuck in 1st, it will take almost 4 turns of the input shaft for the output to spin once. If it's in 3rd, it will take about 1 1/2 turns for the output to spin once. If it is in 5th, it will take just about 3/4 of a turn.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2016
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I remember before I did the clutch job when I drained the fluid there was trash on the plug... So I'm thinking there could be trash jammed up in the 3/4 collar. So I'm thinking about breaking it down and finding out for myself