2001 7.3L 307,000 miles

Hey guys so I have a couple of injectors pretty close to failing the buzz test.

I'm a shade tree mechanic - I've done the oil cooler, changed the radiator and belts etc how easy is the injector change? The bit that bothers me is the oil draining into the rear cylinders and ensuring that I don't hydraulic lock something. Do I need any special tools? Should I just take her to Diesel Innovations in Houston and let them get on with it

Thanks in advance

 

From one shade tree mechanic to another...I'll be doing my own when the time comes. There are a couple of ways to get that oil out of the cylinders and I will probably lay some rags or boxes over the valves and maybe even just the valve covers and spin the motor to evacuate that oil with the injectors or glow plugs out.

 

From another shade tree mechanic: You can DIY! I read about it and then did it. It is that simple. A good "inch" pound rated torque wrench is the only special tool that you need.

Don't worry about the oil and fuel in the rear cylinders. If you have a mighty vac "COOL" if not, don't sweat it. Simply turn the engine over slowly by hand with the glow plugs removed for a couple of complete revolutions and then spin it with the starter and you don't have to worry about hydrolocking. Do both with the VC's on or you will create a mess.

 

I dont think its that hard, I had everything out to replace my wiring harness for the injectors but didnt have the money to replace injectors. Mine didnt need any but Ive been wanting to get some performance parts under the hood. YouTube is your friend, just make sure you know what your doing before you start ripping it apart. Best of luck to ya if you decide to do it!

 

I got one of these when prepping to do the job. As noted it was not necessary but it was a good excuse to get one. Have used it for a number of other cleaning and testing jobs since then.


Mityvac Vacuum Pump - Save on Mityvac Pumps at Harbor Freight!


https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_2ogm7hqgtq_b

 

Aren't we all .....



This will be the hardest thing in the process, choosing a quality injector so your chances of going back in in a month and spending more money. I have worked on dozens that the owner put injectors in that were junk. When you tell them they need three injectors they hit the ceiling or tell you: "you don't know what your talking about" or reluctantly pay another $2,000.00.


Without putting my opinion out there. I suggest you search or start a thread for suggestions and experience and see what new or reman units people are happy with.



There is an oil rail plug 5mm Allen you can remove on each that allows 90% of the oil to drain if the engine is warm. If the Allen is rounded as most are from previous hack jobs, just don't worry about it and move on.


Remove the Glow Plugs. you may want to replace them, I will say use only OEM IMO. The number of people I'd ask if the wanted them replaced would say no. I thought... Your bill is going to be $2,000 and can't afford $50 more. Some peoples children.....


Loosen the Serpentine Belt from the tensioner. I know a lot bump the starter. I prefer to crank the engine with a Breaker Bar and turn the crank 4 times 360*.



a shot 5/8" Wrench works wonders on setting the injectors into the hole using the hold down plate. Don't beat them with a hammer or mallet to get them in..... Seen that too.


Here are some things that "I" do....


1. Loosen the top retaining bolt, remove the bottom, slide the retainer up and apply leverage using the 5/8" wrench and they'll lift out. Reverse process to install. A thin coat of oil or diesel on the new ones before installation.


2. Injector Cups. I always pressure the radiator to 20 lbs. and let it sit while I'm getting things ready for install. Take a close look at the cup seals for the beginning of a leak. Now is the time to replace ones that may fail.


3. The 7.3L is very particular about injectors loosening after install. Once you have everything buttoned up before the valve cover install, start the engine, get it to 140* and re-torque one more time. Ps: these are INCH POUNDS.


4. Inspect ALL the electrical wiring and connector closely. Any that are questionable including the UVCH should be replaced. Many times I saw injector installs the customer did said the injectors were bad was a just a connector or UVCH that should have been replaced. Use some Contact Cleaner on all and some Dielectric grease to seal the connector from the elements.


5. When I do them in my driveway, I put a cheap $12 tarp and drive over it. There will be some oil and diesel drip..


6. You'll need something sturdy to stand on.


7. You may want to take pictures from beginning to end for reinstalling everything.


I am sure I missed some things.


If you have an issue. Just post here. There are many people who have knowledge and can walk you through it. I'll look for a step-by-step later in the manual.


But all in all.... like the T.V. Show, I rate this 3 out of 5 Wrenches for DIY'r.......... .

 

I found a cheap syringe with a short piece of hose for about $5 at Pep Boys for draining things like the HPOP reservoir and it could probably be used for sucking the oil out of the cylinders during an injector change. You might have to pick up a longer piece of hose. It only holds about an ounce or two of liquid at a time but it should do the job for cheap.

 

10 mm deep socket 1/4 drive for GP and air intake bracket
#3 Phillips for Breather
8mm socket for injector bolt
13 mm swivel 3/8 drive for VC
13 mm deep for VC studs


1in, 6in, 9in extensions


I just did mine last month.
remove VC and harness, remove inj spurt redirectors before removing injector, GP


after injectors installed and GP still out crank over by hand with breaker bar for min 2 revs, then hit starter relay for 10 sec and install GP


Hardest part is getting the VC bolts near the firewall. A 3 step ladder helped out a lot. Also get a camping mattress pad for you to lean on in engine area. I sliced up my knee and bruised my chest a bit in there.
then

 

A top side creeper was the best investment I ever made for working on these trucks, makes life sooooo much easier.

Traxion Foldable Topside Creeper — Model# 3-100 | Creepers| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

Found some video's for ya....



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Book says 120 inch/pounds torque on the injector hold-down bolt, 140 might "stretch" the bolt, but I used to do 130 and I'm backing off to 125 on my next install. Hot-torquing is still a very helpful step for me, though. One thing I recently learned, all 4 of my "not $500" torque wrenches drift terribly each time I set them. Once they're set, they're stable - but a reset never gets back to the same torque. I bought an electronic torque adapter to get a reading on the initial set of the wrench, then I just use the wrench once set. [LINK]

For glowplug removal, I use a 1/4" drive 10 mm deep socket to loosen the glowplug only. I then use a piece of 5/16" semi-rigid plastic fuel line to remove the glowplug.


I bought a pneumatic brake bleeder tool at Horrible Fright for draining cylinders and other stuff, and it is now one of my very favorite tools. I removed the attachment and fit about 8 inches of some semi-rigid tubing into the hose - enabling me to aim the hose into the GP or injector nozzle hole. It's a little slow, but no pumping by hand and no draining a tiny reservoir multiple times. [LINK]

13mm flex socket will be your best bud when getting the two bottom-rear VC bolts near the heater core on the passenger side. If you have a pickup, you can reach them through the fender well with your arm and almost any 13 mm wrench, including a ratcheting combination wrench. If you have an Ex - get the 13 mm flex socket or have an anger-management therapist on speed-dial. For the firewall VC bolts, every truck I've worked on has slightly different clearance back there. What works best on Stinky is a deep 13 mm socket, a universal joint, and about 18" of extensions (one of mine is a 12" extension). I then face the back of the truck and use the arm nearest the truck to set the socket, and the outside arm to turn the wrench or fire the cordless tool. This method has made those back bolts easier than dealing with the bolts near the heater core.

A 12" extension and a deep 9/16" (or maybe a 14mm socket) on a cordless tool makes short work of the CAC boot T-bolt clamps. When it comes time to remove the turbo inlet assembly... I just loosen the turbo inlet hose clamp, release the 42-pin connector and push it through, then remove the two nuts securing it to the valve cover. I remove the whole assembly in one piece (watch the CCV hose, you may need to take the whole CCV doghouse off at the same time).



I mentioned 42-pin connector (driver side). I would click on the 42-pin connector link in my signature and conduct those tests before I assume it's an injector thing - it could be nothing more than a UVCH thing.

 

Guys you have all gone to heaps of trouble to help out with your replies - can't thank you enough! I did however feel a bit overwhelmed with the age of the truck and miles in case there was something that came up needing more skills than mine. So I ran the tests through the 42 pin to be sure it wasn't harness related and the truck is now with Mike and Tim at Diesel Innovations in Houston for a full set of AC's, harnesses, chip and some TLC. I'll let you know the results.

 

So truck is back, job done and it seems pretty dam good. Actually sounds like a truck when it idles and not a bag of bolts. 5 stage chip on it too which seems to help things, loads of smoke on hard right foot on race setting - not my thing - must be getting old. Last challenge now is an oil leak on the back of the block, predominantly drivers side but some on passenger, not enough to drip on the drive but I'll degrease and see what I can find. looks like oil but doesn't really feel to have enough lubrication when you rub it between your fingers. Wondering if its AT fluid or the power steering pump - I did just change the lines!

 

Or can be oil stained Diesel.

 

That's what mine was. I thought I had a bad oil leak, it was a bad fuel leak from a swelling non diesel hose that was coming out of the clamp