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injector install advice

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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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Question injector install advice

I have the new injectors in hand and am preparing to install them tomorrow. Since I didn't un-screw the oil rail plugs before I pulled out the injectors, should I do it now? Or should I just leave them and suck out the cylinders with the mighty-vac. I have already sucked out 100ml of oil from the # 7 cylinder. That seems to be about all that's going to be pulled out. I'm going to vaccum all 8 cylinders before I seat the injectors. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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That and turn the engine over by hand a few revolutions with the glow plugs out to purge and extra oil that you may have missed.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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Agreed. Don't worry about the rail plugs now, but do turn the motor over a few times with the glow plugs out after you get the new injectors installed. I think turning it over a couple of times by hand, followed by unplugging the CPS and bumping the starter a few times is the best way to get the oil out.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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I have never popped those rail plugs, I just suck out the oil really good pull the glow plugs, I have a not start position I crank it with that on. If you dont have that just keep the Harness to the injectors unplugged. Also take the valve cover and put them back on and use one bolt to hold them on when you purge the bit of oil through the glow plug holes.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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Some people like using a light rubber mallet when putting the injectors in to make sure they are in all the way. We just used the lower part of our palms as a hammer to make sure we didnt accidently use too much force and that worked fine. Double and triple check each injector just before putting them in the hole to make sure the o ring and everything is clean. Once they are all in and your ready to start the truck. Make sure both of your batteries have a good charge on them and crank the motor. You really only want to crank it for about 30 seconds a shot because you can burn out the starter. If it is taking alot of times of cranking to start you may have to hook it to another truck if the batts start getting low. These trucks will not fire without good battery juice. Once shes running good enough to get her in gear and drive get her out and some rpm in her. The best thing you can do to get all the air out of the fuel system is get her on the road and let her seem some RPM.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 04:54 AM
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Good points guys. You can also pull the fuse for the PCM and that way she will crank and not fire as well
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:30 AM
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also, i would advise to change the oil when finished, i know when i did mine i also got a small amount of diesel in the oil..don't really know if its necessary but better safe than sorry..
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Payson and I replaced 7 & 8 on mine yesterday. Did exactly as everyone is saying yesterday. Had to replace my GPR also. It suck in the closed position with key out and drained the batteries. Pretty sad to have a Jeep and a Toyota Camry jumping the truck. The hardest part was getting some leverage to pull the ones out.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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I didn't suck out or crank by hand when I did mine. I just pulled the GPs, put the VCs back on with two bolts, disconnected the main harness connection on the block, and bumped the starter a couple times. It's amazing how easy it seems the engine turns with the starter when there's no compression!! Sounds like the starter is free-wheeling......

I did change the oil as well, which I strategically planned out. I was due anyway. I also poured a little down through the heads the top of the heads after putting in the GPs just to flush out any contaminated oil (about a 1/2 quart down each head). Doubt it was really necessary, but I had some extra oil sitting there.
 
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