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Erratic idle and stalling issue

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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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Erratic idle and stalling issue

Hello all I'm trying to help my uncle with his 04 6.0. He's been complaining of erratic idle and stalling while coasting in gear ( auto ) when I park it hasn't stalled for me but upon startup it has a misfire by ear but seems to smooth out after a few seconds . I did scan it and has a bunch of codes you can see my scan below :
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1veA5xlnfoFSlVQSE51ZVNWa28

My scan tool doesn't support much of the sensors I need to properly diagnosis this but I have a friend with a snap on tool and I'm hoping to get it this week.
Where would be a good place to start ?
I did check the fuel injection control voltage and it was 48 volts +/- .5 v
This was about a 5 minute test with it running .
I did tell him to pull the exhaust pressure tube and clean it as I don't think it's a sticky turbo at this time and it shouldn't cause a stalling issue even if it was .
Thanks
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 11:46 PM
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After looking at the codes, I'd do this

1) Pull the ICP and see it that helps. Could be a bad sensor, if oil soaked at the connector, replace the pigtail and sensor. Drive it abit unplugged and see what happens, won't hurt the truck. (P2285)
2) Clean the MAP and EBP sensor, and get ready to clean the turbo (P0299)
3) Drain the water off the fuel
4) Add a bottle of Archoil 9000 to the oil
5) Make sure you have the correct OEM oil cap and filter installed.

Get a good live data reading device... that will allow for trouble shooting and watching live data before the truck goes down or you spend a ton of money to fix it without really knowing your correct.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 05:17 AM
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Thank you , two things the water in fuel is most likely a bad sensor as it has been drained and filters changed multiple time and the light still on .
Also no mention of the crank sensor , with my experience with my 7.3 the crank sensor is the most common cause of stalling but not a real apples to apples between the two motors .
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 05:51 AM
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It's probably a loose connector for both. Do a wiggle test on both. The live data reader can see positive or negative sync , 0 for a no, 1 for a yes.... where I'd spend the first dime.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 11:39 AM
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Thanks , I'm getting torque set up what should I data log ? Ipc, exhaust back pressure , crank sensor fic voltage and rpm , intake pressure and barometric pressure ?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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report values for KOEO; ICP, IPR, ICPV, EBP, MAP, BARO, FICM and main battery voltage.
While cranking; FICM, ICPV, RPM, main battery voltage, CAM/CRANK/FICM SYNC needs to be yes/1
At Idle; FICM, ICPV, IPR, VGT, main battery voltage.

Clear all the codes before you start, if they are hard faults, they will come back.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 12:17 PM
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And pull the ICP connector and drive the truck a bit to see if;
1) its a failed sensor and oil soaked connector
2) it stops jerking

make sure you do this with A/C off, it could elevate any numbers and or be a failing clutch on the condenser.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 03:48 PM
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I made sure the a/c was off the other day when I was messing with it, I will tell him to keep that in mind .
Is it ok to drive it for a few days with it unplugged? I won't get my tablet till Thursday.
I will clear the codes tonight and see what comes back Thursday.
Thanks again .
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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Well we went one step forward and about 3 back . He had a no start condition last year and it was the icp on the valve cover he replaced the sensor and pigtail but used crimp connectors and I flicked the connections while it was running and the rpms went all over the place so I said pull it in the garage and I'll solder them . Well just as he went to pull in the steering box bolts all broke so it's in the driveway till we can find some bolts. Talk about timing !
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 11:43 PM
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you could drive it forever with the ICP unplugged. It WILL cause a code, it WILL cause your mpg to go down. The ICP gives pressure control a finite control, instead of using 875psi to idle, it used 580psi... that saves fuel, it gives exactly what's called for, not just over pressurizing it.

Glad you found your issue. That's the thing about these trucks, they demand your attention!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
you could drive it forever with the ICP unplugged. It WILL cause a code, it WILL cause your mpg to go down. The ICP gives pressure control a finite control, instead of using 875psi to idle, it used 580psi... that saves fuel, it gives exactly what's called for, not just over pressurizing it.

Glad you found your issue. That's the thing about these trucks, they demand your attention!
OK so got the steering box fixed and soldered the icp sensor wires yesterday . Today cleared the codes started it up and all was fine , restarted the truck and the icp, exhaust back pressure , and a glow plug failure came back . The first startup was only idle for a few minutes maybe a blip of the diesel to see the sensors move . When key on engine off the barometric pressure and exhaust pressure are .2 psi different I'll call that good no ?
As far as the other sensors I'm still learning torque and thought the graph was saved when you were done so I lost everything and gave up for the night .
We did take it for a good hour drive I drove for most of it and to me it seems down on power , the diesel part is there but the turbo part is iffy. My tdi pulls harder then the truck. The turbo did seem to spool up but seemed to spool down too quick, there was no felt turbo lag aa I'm us to . But I don't drive his truck too often .
I will have to look into this further but what are your thoughts ?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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BARO and EBP at .2 apart is good, what about MAP? So far we know EBP/BARO can be seen by the PCM, they are not reporting a good condition when driving the truck, which says they are not working as designed.

EBP+MAP=Boost. Clean the sensors even if they are reading the same numbers.... and you've proven they work.

Stay on target......
1) Pull the ICP and see it that helps. Could be a bad sensor, if oil soaked at the connector, replace the pigtail and sensor. Drive it a bit unplugged and see what happens, won't hurt the truck. (P2285)
2) Clean the MAP and EBP sensor, and get ready to clean the turbo (P0299)
3) Drain the water off the fuel
4) Add a bottle of Archoil 9000 to the oil
5) Make sure you have the correct OEM oil cap and filter installed.

You could have a failing HPOP, but we won't know until after you've driven with the ICP unplugged.....

AND it could need the turbo cleaned (low on power, doesn't pull good), P0299. Could be the results of bad EBP/MAP operation. The turbo is most likely stuck, but get the sensors right before tearing it apart. You need to eliminate them as causes... you haven't done that yet. After they are cleaned, drive again and report EBP/MAP and now include VGT.... KOEO, idle and at 2500RPM under load. The 2500RPM load check is while driving the truck, it won't show anything in the driveway.

Also, with ICP plugged in, report ICPV at 2500RPM on that same road test, it should be exactly 40% and exactly at 2500RPM when you do this. This test is to verify the HPOP is producing the pressure it needs.

Do the work needed to verify sensors operate properly to help narrow it down.... Your making progress!
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 05:29 AM
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The icp sensor is clean and looks good , since it was a new pigtail is there a chance it got wired wrong any diagram for this ?
What's KOEO ?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 09:53 PM
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Key On Engine Off

There is a right way and wrong way to wire it yes, sorry I don't have a diagram.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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Well a quick update , the turbo finally stuck so I'll be pulling it apart next week. Uppon start up the cel is off but come back on once moving probably low boost. I'll scan again next week when I have time to look at her better .
 
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