Ok, passenger side is put back together with new dummy plugs and top half of stand pipe.
Still won't start. I'm getting the following PIDs;
FICM volts 48
FICM SINC 0 (no)
Cam crank sync 1 (yes)
ICP V 0.4
ICP 170 psi
IPR 83.9

I know I need 500 psi of oil pressure to start. I have an HPOP leak. I will change the driver's side dummy plugs and stand pipe tomorrow. I also bought the IPR socket and scream Kit. I'll chand those out once I get to the driver side. If it still doesn't start,
Looks like the only thing left will be the STC. But I read if the STC was bad I wouldn't get over 100psi at the ICP.
Anybody have any other suggestions?? It's a 2005 so the HPOP pump should be ok, right???

 

The old stand pipe is a two piece unit, the new one is a solid one piece.

 

You need cam sync and crank sync to be a 1 (yes) before FICM sync can be a 1 (yes)

FICM may be a 0 because of the relay you unplugged.
Also, the air test is better with the valve cover off, you can hear exactly where the leak is at.

It could be nipple cups, injector top o-rings as well.

 

New stand pipes are 2 pices. I know this because I separated the new one and attached the new top to the old bottom.
I am getting cam/crank sync 1 or yes.
I already put the passenger side back together. The old o rings on the dummy plugs and stand pipes were not torn or damaged, but they didn't potrude as much as the new ones.
I will work on the driver side tomorrow.

 

Did they have a white Teflon ring next to the rubber oring and we're a 12mm Allen?

 

Yes, new DP and stand pipes had white washer and were 12mm. Old ones were 10mm no white washers. I got them from Ed at FICMrepair.com

 

I did mine one month ago, the set I received were a solid one piece stand pipe with a 12mm Allen head. White ring is to keep the o-rings from sliding around.

Not trying to be difficult with you, just I've always been under the impression that the updated strand pipes were one piece to eliminate the possible leak in the center.

 

WatsonR,
You're not being difficult. I appreciate everyone's advise as my truck hasn't ran in months. Ed sent me the DP and stand pipes on Monday so I assume they are new; they at least have the white washers.
I was expecting worn O rings on the passenger side dummy plugs when I removed it. Now I'm hoping the problem will be found on the driver's side dummy plugs or stand pipe!!

 

It's not so much that they are worn, it's that they are allowed to move from the pressure. That white ring prevents that from happening, from being squeezed and pushed out of the way. Goggle some images and see what I'm saying to be sure.

The Allen should also be 12mm, not 10mm and torque is 60lbs when you put them back in.

 

Yes, they were 12mm hex head. All the pics and YouTube videos always show a cracked or torn O rings on the passenger side dummy plug. I was hoping mine were torn and were the cause of my leak/no start issue.

 

New stand pipes are one chunk o'metal, not two.
unless there is something I am missing here.

Your HPOP is likely fine. I did an 05 a few weeks ago, dummy plugs were not horrible(these had the 1/2' head and not even the 10mm head). Like yours, not horrible but the orings did not have much protrusion if any and were very hard, so they needed to be done.
FYI there are quite a few folks that don't even replace the stand pipe, master techs included, unless it's a van.....simply because they rarely go bad.

The STC was leaking, cold starts good, hot starts were hit and miss. I could pull it apart with my fingers once removed so it was just a matter of time before it went all out. 87 crewdually so kindly pointed this out that you can in fact have a failing STC and think that the air test is telling you it's the DP's, why Randy mentioned the air test with the valve covers off.
So to answer your question, you can have a bad STC and still run, sometimes for weeks as this one did.

Just remember once it's all back together, it might take three or four 15 second sessions of cranking(with PLENTY of starter cool down time in between) with the key off using the starter wire plug on the passenger side firewall to get her primed up again, keep your batteries up with a charger if you need to, Ed likes business but not repeat business from unfortunate sequence of events. It takes some time to purge all the air, don't be shocked if you have a few long starts after fixing, don't freak out. If the job was done right it's just air still working out. Do three or four WOT romps from a slow coast up to cruising speeds.

If you do the STC, you will need a 15/16" crows feet to torque the new STC fitting jam nut.

 

I did my standpipes about 5 months ago (bought fromTousleys? White Bear Lake) they were 2 piece with Teflon ring and 12mm heads. I thought they were new style. If "newer ones" are one piece I don't see how you can get them in on the passenger side without removing heater box cover.

 

I got the parts from Autonation as well, three weeks ago. It's sure strange some of us are getting one and two piece SP's.

You are correct in that the heater box cover is removed or the oil rail needs to be loosened up to tilt it up, at least that is what I have read and seen in vids.
I'm thinking that is why guys like DTR said he never did SP's unless it was customer request or a van chassis, as they rarely fail. Others would probably say it's crazy to not replace them, and that is fine. I would counter with the if it ain't broke don't fix it angle.

 

Why the air test is so important and why you do it with the covers off. Unless you do them both, good chance you may be going back in.

 

Interesting. I only cranked it over twice after replacing the passenger side dummy plug and top part of stand pipe. I'm going to crank it over a few more times with rest in between. Hopefully I can watch the ICP pressure increase with each crank!! I'll report back!