Overheating during engine break-in. Twice!
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
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From: Boston, KY
Thanks for all the helpful info. Can anybody explain why my offset fan was not an issue before the rebuild, but would be now? Is it because new engines have more friction because everything has not mated yet, creating more heat? I definitely made sure the head gasket was on properly - none of the water passages were blocked. And yes, I used the plate between the water pump and the block.
Let's talk timing for a minute. I set initial timing by putting the crank at 10 BTDC, then putting the distributor on the #1 plug. With the RPMs at 2500 (no vacuum advance) the timing was still spot on at 10*. Since I am pretty close on "base" timing, should I just go ahead and hook up the vacuum advance?
Let's talk timing for a minute. I set initial timing by putting the crank at 10 BTDC, then putting the distributor on the #1 plug. With the RPMs at 2500 (no vacuum advance) the timing was still spot on at 10*. Since I am pretty close on "base" timing, should I just go ahead and hook up the vacuum advance?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 583
From: Chillicothe
Yeah hook up vac adv. And at 2-2500 try having around 25 degrees at least. I'm not 100% what BBFs like timing wise. But most everything I've ever put together was all in at 30-36 degrees by 2500-2700. As for the fan. How often did you sit stationary at elevated revs? I'm not suggesting its totally the problem, but may be one part of the whole problem.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 89
From: MD
The fan shroud is an issue because the engine doesn't normally turn 2500rpm at an idle/stand still. Can do it with a shroud,without there's not enough airflow through the rad. No biggie when the truck is moving.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You should be showing advance at idle and certainly "all in" by 3k.
Have you set the timing by removing the Spout plug **before** adjusting the distributor, and locking it down then reinstalling the Spout plug?
Are all the other sensors plugged in and functioning?
Are you able to pull any codes?
I could see why you would be locked at base timing if the Spout were not reinserted or the computer was not working.
There should be **a little** more heat as lifters polish cam faces and rings seal against fresh cylinder bores.
This is the whole reason to run in at elevated rpm's. .... flushing lots of oil to carry away heat and abraded metal.
Have you set the timing by removing the Spout plug **before** adjusting the distributor, and locking it down then reinstalling the Spout plug?
Are all the other sensors plugged in and functioning?
Are you able to pull any codes?
I could see why you would be locked at base timing if the Spout were not reinserted or the computer was not working.
There should be **a little** more heat as lifters polish cam faces and rings seal against fresh cylinder bores.
This is the whole reason to run in at elevated rpm's. .... flushing lots of oil to carry away heat and abraded metal.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 89
From: MD
Just caught this. The over heated runs where with no vac advance only base timing?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Efi engines shouldn't have vacuum advance distributors.
He does say there is a carb, but is this engine swapped to DSII, or is it still running a tfi distributor?
He does say there is a carb, but is this engine swapped to DSII, or is it still running a tfi distributor?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Rhode Island
An '87 460 is not an EFI engine.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
I know, I'm driving one right now.
This is the same guy with a '90 efi engine in a truck that used to be 351???
Pics of the setup might help.
I would run it in with no thermostat, but like i said if it is erupting on shutoff there is a hot spot in one of the heads.
A $20 laser ir gun will find it.
This is the same guy with a '90 efi engine in a truck that used to be 351???
Pics of the setup might help.
I would run it in with no thermostat, but like i said if it is erupting on shutoff there is a hot spot in one of the heads.
A $20 laser ir gun will find it.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 31
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My '87 460 would overheat on break-in as well as standard driving. Kept trying to diagnose it as the aluminum radiator shouldn't have any issues transferring heat...
Putting the fan shroud back on instantly fixed my issues. Modify your shroud so that it easily pulls air across the radiator.
Putting the fan shroud back on instantly fixed my issues. Modify your shroud so that it easily pulls air across the radiator.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
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From: Boston, KY
Yes, the overheat was with 10* base timing and no vac advance. I didn't realize timing could have such an effect on temperature, but it makes sense now that I've thought it through. As far as my setup goes, it is a carb with 1984 heads, the DSII control, C8XX distributor. There is no computer to pull codes from. This is essentially a 1984 engine in a 1987 body.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
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From: Boston, KY
Final update: I hooked up the vacuum advance and with a little occasional mist on the radiator with a garden hose, she stayed right at 190*F for a full 30 minutes. My cam is officially broken in and I'm a happy dude! It's always the little stuff that gets you....
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