When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm in the boat with others now on this..... With the lift and a previously trashed carrier bearing..... Pinion Angle is the suspect. Trip to a drive-line shop is the next stop.
I agree. FWIW, the new vibration I felt at speed turns out to be a harmonic from the new engine that I'm not used to. I was planning to shift into neutral to see what happened, but as soon as I let off the gas pedal, the vibration stopped. I checked it several times, all the same. The new engine is bored .030 over and has a bigger cam. It just feels a little different at speed.
Catch me up on the 180 degree off part? Only part to be worried about is if it's out of phase as in 90 degrees out. Most vehicles anymore have a master spline I'm the slip yoke to prevent any out of phase. Each shaft is separately balanced, 180 out still puts you in phase and each shaft being balanced there would be no issue. Is your carrier bearing spaced down to compensate for the lift? About a quarter inch for every inch of lift is a good rule of thumb. Did you use lift blocks? If so are they tapered or flat? They should be flat. Your t-case output and pinion flange angle should match to within a degree. From there the you space the carrier bearing until the rear shaft has about a degree more slope that the front section. Need a decent digital angle finder to do this.
My mechanic specifically said it was exactly opposite (he used the term 180 off) the way they had marked every thing before they took it off. Assuming that is correct and what you said about being 90 degrees off would be all that mattered is also correct, then pulling the shaft back up with the new bushing is all that really changed. It definitely all went to heck at that point. He did shim the carrier housing down some, but I don't know if it was a whole inch. The truck has flat blocks on it. He tried angled ones, but it all got worse.
Find someone that knows what they are doing. He's swapping parts as a prayer. The blocks should be ok but carrier bearing likely still need dropped.
It's been super hot here and his shop is not cooled. He's done this kind of work before, but it's not really what he's set up for. It takes a lot of trial and error to nail something like this and it's pretty hard to do when the heat index is 115. A drive line shop should be able to knock it out pretty fast.
It's not trial and error at all. It requires some geometry that isn't any harder than high school level and a decent angle finder. Knowing how to apply it isn't always cut and dry but still not rocket science. If he's being paid to do it he needs to know what he's doing and not guessing. If he's not set up to do it he shouldn't be doing it. The correct geometry will put you dead on, rarely ever will fine tuning be needed.
It's not trial and error at all. It requires some geometry that isn't any harder than high school level and a decent angle finder. Knowing how to apply it isn't always cut and dry but still not rocket science. If he's being paid to do it he needs to know what he's doing and not guessing. If he's not set up to do it he shouldn't be doing it. The correct geometry will put you dead on, rarely ever will fine tuning be needed.
I'll call him tomorrow and see what he's done so far. I'm pretty sure he hasn't dropped it a full inch so the angle has still got to be wrong.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.