First Truck
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New User
Joined: Jul 2016
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First Truck
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and just recently introduced myself. I'm 18 years old and just got done with my 1992 Mustang GT resto project and I am now in the process of selling it. I would like to buy an older truck for commuting and not have to worry about as much. I have read through the stickies and past forum posts but couldn't seem to find anything about buying an older 73-79 or so F series truck as a first truck presently. I do understand I could buy a newer truck for the same amount of money, but I prefer something carbureted and simpler in my mind. The main question is, what should I be looking for? What trouble years are there? Fair prices? Thanks a lot, I'm glad to be here.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE
Unless you buy a competent or professionally restored truck, you will have a lot of problems. Trucks were not fashion statements until relatively recently and were uniformly beaten, like a rented mule. So generally any pickup that rust or collision didn't claim and survived to present day is simply worn out and will take lots of $$ and time to make right again. But to my way of thinking a restored truck offers a great value. The previous owner did all the hard work and mostly, cannot hope to recoup his investment in terms of time or money. $15 to $25 thousand should get you a very nice truck, equal pretty much to brand new offerings.
Unless you buy a competent or professionally restored truck, you will have a lot of problems. Trucks were not fashion statements until relatively recently and were uniformly beaten, like a rented mule. So generally any pickup that rust or collision didn't claim and survived to present day is simply worn out and will take lots of $$ and time to make right again. But to my way of thinking a restored truck offers a great value. The previous owner did all the hard work and mostly, cannot hope to recoup his investment in terms of time or money. $15 to $25 thousand should get you a very nice truck, equal pretty much to brand new offerings.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 7
From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
Welcome!
When I bought my 73, it needed everything. It ran and drove, but that's it and it wasn't great at it either. It has taken a year so far to get it reliable and looking good. The trick to keeping one of these goes as follows (at least IME):
Maintenance. Don't get lazy with this! Keep an eye on fluids, pressures, and levels, as well as leaks.
Be prepared. NEVER go anywhere without a relevant set of tools in your truck. I have a big toolbox full of important stuff in the pass. footwell. You will need them.
Learn to fix things quickly and correctly. You may be needing your truck a lot worse than your think tomorrow, make sure you have the parts to fix it, and don't cut corners. I have had a dead truck one day, and fixing it that night, I got a surprise invitation to the mountains to help out with some work the next day. Drove it 80 miles each way, with 30 miles of cross country off roading in the snow. Ran perfectly.
Don't beat on your truck. Driving it like Mario Andretti ain't going to help you. Stock, these trucks are pretty slow. Don't bother trying to make it go fast! All it will do is tire your truck out prematurely. Mild driving habits and using heavy skinny pedal only when needed will have your truck, and your pocketbook thanking you.
Don't stop learning. I bought my truck as a complete noob. I knew the basics and was mechanically inclined, but that's it. Stick around here and you too will learn.
Don't ignore what your truck is trying to tell you. Modern vehicles will often tell you something is wrong with the check engine light long before you hear it. When your truck makes an ugly sound, now is not the time for an Italian tune up. Investigate it and fix it! This goes especially for belts, PS pumps, and knocks. Ignore noises from passengers however.
Spares are paramount. Always keep a "break down kit" in your truck. Mine consists of a points set, condenser, bottle of oil, PS fluid (type F actually), condenser, and compression tester. A fuel filter would be good too. Later Dentsides have ICMs. Have one of those handy if your truck is so equipped.
Hope this helps some.
When I bought my 73, it needed everything. It ran and drove, but that's it and it wasn't great at it either. It has taken a year so far to get it reliable and looking good. The trick to keeping one of these goes as follows (at least IME):
Maintenance. Don't get lazy with this! Keep an eye on fluids, pressures, and levels, as well as leaks.
Be prepared. NEVER go anywhere without a relevant set of tools in your truck. I have a big toolbox full of important stuff in the pass. footwell. You will need them.
Learn to fix things quickly and correctly. You may be needing your truck a lot worse than your think tomorrow, make sure you have the parts to fix it, and don't cut corners. I have had a dead truck one day, and fixing it that night, I got a surprise invitation to the mountains to help out with some work the next day. Drove it 80 miles each way, with 30 miles of cross country off roading in the snow. Ran perfectly.
Don't beat on your truck. Driving it like Mario Andretti ain't going to help you. Stock, these trucks are pretty slow. Don't bother trying to make it go fast! All it will do is tire your truck out prematurely. Mild driving habits and using heavy skinny pedal only when needed will have your truck, and your pocketbook thanking you.
Don't stop learning. I bought my truck as a complete noob. I knew the basics and was mechanically inclined, but that's it. Stick around here and you too will learn.
Don't ignore what your truck is trying to tell you. Modern vehicles will often tell you something is wrong with the check engine light long before you hear it. When your truck makes an ugly sound, now is not the time for an Italian tune up. Investigate it and fix it! This goes especially for belts, PS pumps, and knocks. Ignore noises from passengers however.
Spares are paramount. Always keep a "break down kit" in your truck. Mine consists of a points set, condenser, bottle of oil, PS fluid (type F actually), condenser, and compression tester. A fuel filter would be good too. Later Dentsides have ICMs. Have one of those handy if your truck is so equipped.
Hope this helps some.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I appreciate that very much. I understand older cars and trucks are always work, I've learned that the hard way but still feel like doing it for some reason. But this time I will not make the mistake of buying anything with early, unrefined and poorly built electronics/fuel injection! I've made the decision to get something with a carb and as little wires, electronic control units and rubber as possible. Thank you very much for the input. Maybe it would be wise for me to go check out some 80's carbureted F series as well.
Welcome!
When I bought my 73, it needed everything. It ran and drove, but that's it and it wasn't great at it either. It has taken a year so far to get it reliable and looking good. The trick to keeping one of these goes as follows (at least IME):
Maintenance. Don't get lazy with this! Keep an eye on fluids, pressures, and levels, as well as leaks.
Be prepared. NEVER go anywhere without a relevant set of tools in your truck. I have a big toolbox full of important stuff in the pass. footwell. You will need them.
Learn to fix things quickly and correctly. You may be needing your truck a lot worse than your think tomorrow, make sure you have the parts to fix it, and don't cut corners. I have had a dead truck one day, and fixing it that night, I got a surprise invitation to the mountains to help out with some work the next day. Drove it 80 miles each way, with 30 miles of cross country off roading in the snow. Ran perfectly.
Don't beat on your truck. Driving it like Mario Andretti ain't going to help you. Stock, these trucks are pretty slow. Don't bother trying to make it go fast! All it will do is tire your truck out prematurely. Mild driving habits and using heavy skinny pedal only when needed will have your truck, and your pocketbook thanking you.
Don't stop learning. I bought my truck as a complete noob. I knew the basics and was mechanically inclined, but that's it. Stick around here and you too will learn.
Don't ignore what your truck is trying to tell you. Modern vehicles will often tell you something is wrong with the check engine light long before you hear it. When your truck makes an ugly sound, now is not the time for an Italian tune up. Investigate it and fix it! This goes especially for belts, PS pumps, and knocks. Ignore noises from passengers however.
Spares are paramount. Always keep a "break down kit" in your truck. Mine consists of a points set, condenser, bottle of oil, PS fluid (type F actually), condenser, and compression tester. A fuel filter would be good too. Later Dentsides have ICMs. Have one of those handy if your truck is so equipped.
Hope this helps some.
When I bought my 73, it needed everything. It ran and drove, but that's it and it wasn't great at it either. It has taken a year so far to get it reliable and looking good. The trick to keeping one of these goes as follows (at least IME):
Maintenance. Don't get lazy with this! Keep an eye on fluids, pressures, and levels, as well as leaks.
Be prepared. NEVER go anywhere without a relevant set of tools in your truck. I have a big toolbox full of important stuff in the pass. footwell. You will need them.
Learn to fix things quickly and correctly. You may be needing your truck a lot worse than your think tomorrow, make sure you have the parts to fix it, and don't cut corners. I have had a dead truck one day, and fixing it that night, I got a surprise invitation to the mountains to help out with some work the next day. Drove it 80 miles each way, with 30 miles of cross country off roading in the snow. Ran perfectly.
Don't beat on your truck. Driving it like Mario Andretti ain't going to help you. Stock, these trucks are pretty slow. Don't bother trying to make it go fast! All it will do is tire your truck out prematurely. Mild driving habits and using heavy skinny pedal only when needed will have your truck, and your pocketbook thanking you.
Don't stop learning. I bought my truck as a complete noob. I knew the basics and was mechanically inclined, but that's it. Stick around here and you too will learn.
Don't ignore what your truck is trying to tell you. Modern vehicles will often tell you something is wrong with the check engine light long before you hear it. When your truck makes an ugly sound, now is not the time for an Italian tune up. Investigate it and fix it! This goes especially for belts, PS pumps, and knocks. Ignore noises from passengers however.
Spares are paramount. Always keep a "break down kit" in your truck. Mine consists of a points set, condenser, bottle of oil, PS fluid (type F actually), condenser, and compression tester. A fuel filter would be good too. Later Dentsides have ICMs. Have one of those handy if your truck is so equipped.
Hope this helps some.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Welcome!
When I bought my 73, it needed everything. It ran and drove, but that's it and it wasn't great at it either. It has taken a year so far to get it reliable and looking good. The trick to keeping one of these goes as follows (at least IME):
Maintenance. Don't get lazy with this! Keep an eye on fluids, pressures, and levels, as well as leaks.
Be prepared. NEVER go anywhere without a relevant set of tools in your truck. I have a big toolbox full of important stuff in the pass. footwell. You will need them.
Learn to fix things quickly and correctly. You may be needing your truck a lot worse than your think tomorrow, make sure you have the parts to fix it, and don't cut corners. I have had a dead truck one day, and fixing it that night, I got a surprise invitation to the mountains to help out with some work the next day. Drove it 80 miles each way, with 30 miles of cross country off roading in the snow. Ran perfectly.
Don't beat on your truck. Driving it like Mario Andretti ain't going to help you. Stock, these trucks are pretty slow. Don't bother trying to make it go fast! All it will do is tire your truck out prematurely. Mild driving habits and using heavy skinny pedal only when needed will have your truck, and your pocketbook thanking you.
Don't stop learning. I bought my truck as a complete noob. I knew the basics and was mechanically inclined, but that's it. Stick around here and you too will learn.
Don't ignore what your truck is trying to tell you. Modern vehicles will often tell you something is wrong with the check engine light long before you hear it. When your truck makes an ugly sound, now is not the time for an Italian tune up. Investigate it and fix it! This goes especially for belts, PS pumps, and knocks. Ignore noises from passengers however.
Spares are paramount. Always keep a "break down kit" in your truck. Mine consists of a points set, condenser, bottle of oil, PS fluid (type F actually), condenser, and compression tester. A fuel filter would be good too. Later Dentsides have ICMs. Have one of those handy if your truck is so equipped.
Hope this helps some.
When I bought my 73, it needed everything. It ran and drove, but that's it and it wasn't great at it either. It has taken a year so far to get it reliable and looking good. The trick to keeping one of these goes as follows (at least IME):
Maintenance. Don't get lazy with this! Keep an eye on fluids, pressures, and levels, as well as leaks.
Be prepared. NEVER go anywhere without a relevant set of tools in your truck. I have a big toolbox full of important stuff in the pass. footwell. You will need them.
Learn to fix things quickly and correctly. You may be needing your truck a lot worse than your think tomorrow, make sure you have the parts to fix it, and don't cut corners. I have had a dead truck one day, and fixing it that night, I got a surprise invitation to the mountains to help out with some work the next day. Drove it 80 miles each way, with 30 miles of cross country off roading in the snow. Ran perfectly.
Don't beat on your truck. Driving it like Mario Andretti ain't going to help you. Stock, these trucks are pretty slow. Don't bother trying to make it go fast! All it will do is tire your truck out prematurely. Mild driving habits and using heavy skinny pedal only when needed will have your truck, and your pocketbook thanking you.
Don't stop learning. I bought my truck as a complete noob. I knew the basics and was mechanically inclined, but that's it. Stick around here and you too will learn.
Don't ignore what your truck is trying to tell you. Modern vehicles will often tell you something is wrong with the check engine light long before you hear it. When your truck makes an ugly sound, now is not the time for an Italian tune up. Investigate it and fix it! This goes especially for belts, PS pumps, and knocks. Ignore noises from passengers however.
Spares are paramount. Always keep a "break down kit" in your truck. Mine consists of a points set, condenser, bottle of oil, PS fluid (type F actually), condenser, and compression tester. A fuel filter would be good too. Later Dentsides have ICMs. Have one of those handy if your truck is so equipped.
Hope this helps some.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 7
From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
I appreciate that very much. I understand older cars and trucks are always work, I've learned that the hard way but still feel like doing it for some reason. But this time I will not make the mistake of buying anything with early, unrefined and poorly built electronics/fuel injection! I've made the decision to get something with a carb and as little wires, electronic control units and rubber as possible. Thank you very much for the input. Maybe it would be wise for me to go check out some 80's carbureted F series as well.
BTW, Nice username, Winchester 73's are my favorite Winchester leverguns.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 63
From: Eastern, Idaho
My favorite is 79 but there are many reasons to prefer a different year. Later years have some refinements that I like except emissions controls. One of these trucks with electronic ignition is much better than the old points system in my opinion. Spark plugs last longer and its more reliable.
Here are my thoughts about each model year and the improvements seen by newer models.
73 first year, several one year unique parts like turn signals and taillights and more.
74-75 ?
76 shoulder seat belts started appearing, electronic ignition added-double check this. Front disc brakes on 4x4s.
77 new engines mid year 351m or 400, early 77 is last year of highboy f250 4wd. Later year 4x4s got rid of the in cab fuel tanks and f250s sat lower. Front fender liners-keeps crap out of door hinge area.
78 new grill design, better window seals, 4x4 steering system upgraded.
79 more likely to have emissions controls, first year of f350 4x4, last year ford put a solid front axle in a half ton truck.
My suggestions to add to mountain dewd's, if you have one of these trucks, is start collecting tools and get the factory shop manuals or at a minimum a haynes repair manual. Be willing to do your own work otherwise it will nickel and dime you to take it to a mechanic all the time.
Prices all depend on what the truck is (f150 f250, 2wd, 4x4 engine, options, etc)and what condition its in. You can buy them from scrap price of say $200 to $25k+.
Here are my thoughts about each model year and the improvements seen by newer models.
73 first year, several one year unique parts like turn signals and taillights and more.
74-75 ?
76 shoulder seat belts started appearing, electronic ignition added-double check this. Front disc brakes on 4x4s.
77 new engines mid year 351m or 400, early 77 is last year of highboy f250 4wd. Later year 4x4s got rid of the in cab fuel tanks and f250s sat lower. Front fender liners-keeps crap out of door hinge area.
78 new grill design, better window seals, 4x4 steering system upgraded.
79 more likely to have emissions controls, first year of f350 4x4, last year ford put a solid front axle in a half ton truck.
My suggestions to add to mountain dewd's, if you have one of these trucks, is start collecting tools and get the factory shop manuals or at a minimum a haynes repair manual. Be willing to do your own work otherwise it will nickel and dime you to take it to a mechanic all the time.
Prices all depend on what the truck is (f150 f250, 2wd, 4x4 engine, options, etc)and what condition its in. You can buy them from scrap price of say $200 to $25k+.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
See where I'm going with that?
Now, it's possible you'll find a cherry, restored truck from 1972 for $2000, but that's not the way to bet. More likely you'll find a beat to hell rig that was "rode hard and put away wet." So you'll end up dropping $8 or $10 thousand anyway just to make it safe to drive, and reliable. $2000 truck to drive 10 miles every day, sure it can be done. But it will let you down. When I tell you these trucks are worn out, I'm not kidding. It will nickle and dime you to death.
Just the brakes alone would be probably $500 in parts, maybe a little more. Shop labor figure $1000, maybe $1500.
Cosmetics (body work, panels, rust repair, paint etc) of course, would be extra just talking safe and reliable. So unless you want to spend the time and aggravation as well, most people are better served buying a restored vehicle. Take your time. You might have to look at several hundred trucks online and in person just to winnow it down to a few decent candidates. Be willing to travel, fly in and drive home that kind of thing, maybe have a local FTE check it out for you first for a few bucks.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 898
Likes: 3
From: Chillicothe, IA
There is definitely a negative vibe going on in this thread, but I don't think it is at all meant to be a discouragement. These trucks are great and can be an amazing DD. I have used my $200 74 f100 a few times for work when my 06 was down. Looking at 80's trucks is not going to help with anything that these guys have mentioned. The Duraspark ignition system was used on all carbed vehicles from like 75 until they went to EFI. And, it is actually a pretty reliable system. A duraspark module is pretty cheap, like $20 or $30 which is why people carry spares.
My suggestion is to look at mechanical stuff when shopping. I am not super concerned with the looks as I am with mechanics.
Somewhere on here is a very extensive buyers guide/check list. I will see if i can find it and post it here.
As for price, I have spent less than $1000 for all of mine, but I was planning on having to do work to them and it wasn't my only vehicle. My $200 74 I have put virtually no money in and drove it for 5 years. My $1000 76 F350 dumptruck I have spent more than I paid for it already in a bought a year. I would say to get a decent running truck, you should be looking at 2-5 grand.
My suggestion is to look at mechanical stuff when shopping. I am not super concerned with the looks as I am with mechanics.
Somewhere on here is a very extensive buyers guide/check list. I will see if i can find it and post it here.
As for price, I have spent less than $1000 for all of mine, but I was planning on having to do work to them and it wasn't my only vehicle. My $200 74 I have put virtually no money in and drove it for 5 years. My $1000 76 F350 dumptruck I have spent more than I paid for it already in a bought a year. I would say to get a decent running truck, you should be looking at 2-5 grand.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 898
Likes: 3
From: Chillicothe, IA
Buyers Guide: Not my work!! copied and pasted.
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Odd but… take note how clean or un kept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Odd but… take note how clean or un kept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,595
Likes: 5
From: Pasadena, Ca
Are you looking for a 4x4? Offroading? Restoring? Customizing? Lowering? Tell us what your ideal end result truck would be and you will get better advice on drivetrain and motor options.
If you are lowering buy an F150, offroading an F250, hauling mountains of dirt an F350. An fe 360 will give you torque, fe 390 torque and a bit of hp, a 400 is hard to find aftermarket parts for, 302 is a bit small stock, and many people love the v6s.
You can get the engine simplified down to basically one vacuum line from the distributor to the carb. Mods to alternators, brakes, front/rear axles, fans, lighting, etc. are plentiful.
Expect to get a second job to afford gas in any year make or model.
If you are lowering buy an F150, offroading an F250, hauling mountains of dirt an F350. An fe 360 will give you torque, fe 390 torque and a bit of hp, a 400 is hard to find aftermarket parts for, 302 is a bit small stock, and many people love the v6s.
You can get the engine simplified down to basically one vacuum line from the distributor to the carb. Mods to alternators, brakes, front/rear axles, fans, lighting, etc. are plentiful.
Expect to get a second job to afford gas in any year make or model.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 12
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I really appreciate all the responses. This is an overwhelmingly helpful community. Don't worry about the negative vibe or such.
I'm looking for real answers and in the end that is what's going to help.
To answer some questions, I am looking for a simple commuting truck. I'm not into offroading, the truck will not be driven hard or fast.
If anything applies, it might end up being a resto project as long as I end up with a good body to work with.
In the end, I'm just looking for a simple, reliable truck. I know asking for reliability out of any machine 40 or so years old is a stretch, but when I mean reliaiblity I don't mean cross country driving.
Just something that wasn't prone to having problems and is known to last a long time that I can work with.
Thank you very much, I appreciate the responses and I caught onto this post spacing fairly quick, I saw everyone doing it and it does make it a little easier to read doesn't it? Haha sorry about that.
I'm looking for real answers and in the end that is what's going to help.
To answer some questions, I am looking for a simple commuting truck. I'm not into offroading, the truck will not be driven hard or fast.
If anything applies, it might end up being a resto project as long as I end up with a good body to work with.
In the end, I'm just looking for a simple, reliable truck. I know asking for reliability out of any machine 40 or so years old is a stretch, but when I mean reliaiblity I don't mean cross country driving.
Just something that wasn't prone to having problems and is known to last a long time that I can work with.
Thank you very much, I appreciate the responses and I caught onto this post spacing fairly quick, I saw everyone doing it and it does make it a little easier to read doesn't it? Haha sorry about that.
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chanman17
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Dec 3, 2009 01:16 PM