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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
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Question So many questions....

1976 F250 390/c6 4x4- Standard specs - No hotrod planned ..Rebuild only has 7k on engine, but sat for years, so every seal is leaking.


When I took off valve covers, the valve train looked great, no sludge or mucky mess (thank god, cuz I was holding my breath) was clean and orderly.


Im starting to order parts, I have some quick questions, that seemed simple but what the heck


Thermostat temp selection, looks like 205F was the stock, what do you guys recommend ? Go lower ?


Pushrods ? should I replace them even if they look good? I already have the valve stem seals to replace the old ones.


Head bolts, intake manifold bolts, rocker bolts ? Replace them all ?


Should anti seize go on them all ?


Engine Block heater ? Im leaning towards a lower hose in-line style vs. the freeze block plug style, just because the potential leak and access issues.... what say you ?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 10:57 PM
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Talking Anybody ?

Anyone wanna chime in ?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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180-195

Reuse pushrods and bolts

Anti seize is a no, except on water pump bolts.

Freeze plug style is much more effective. Hose style won't do anything for you.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
180-195

Reuse pushrods and bolts

Anti seize is a no, except on water pump bolts.

Freeze plug style is much more effective. Hose style won't do anything for you.
Concur.

But apply Teflon sealant paste on bolts that penetrate into a water jacket... IIRC, the two bolts securing the thermostat housing.

.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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Thanks

Thanks fellas, got my cherry pick'er together last night, after a complete shipping debacle that has set me back a week... So this weekend the jewel will come out one way or the other or piece by freakin piece if necessary
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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Antiseize is a must on the exhaust manifold bolts.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4slik
Antiseize is a must on the exhaust manifold bolts.
2x.. ...Or convert to studs.

I was fortunate enough that the POs of my 70 and 73 used anti-seize. On my 71 F250, I picked it up from the original owner and he wasn't much of a wrench. I'll keep my fingers crossed but be well prepared.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 03:01 PM
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On all the engines I've worked on, I've never had much trouble with manifold bolts. But rather the two connector studs on the pipe end. Those always seem to be stuck and rusted badly.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jakeharp
1976 F250 390 /C6 4x4- Standard
1968/76 F100/250 4WD: The only V8 available: 360 2V

On sale day, 360's magically become 390's!

Measure the stroke to determine engine size: 360: 3.50" / 390 = 3.78."
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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Thumbs up yes'er

I was worried about the 360 turned 390 also..... I have the receipts from the shop that rebuilt it in 2001 with all the 390 specs and they documented the receipt as a 76' 390....
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:05 AM
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Your profile says you live in Nevada... I don't think you should need a block heater? But they are standard issue for places like North Dakota, Montana and Edmonton, interior Alaska etc
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 09:19 AM
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Nevada

I live in Northern Nevada, trust me, its the unknown, unspoken, no-body cares about part of Nevada that I love, and it gets COLD in the winter, single digits and sub-zero are common from January to March..... Most folks hear Nevada and think Vegas or Reno..... Take a looksy at the the historical temps for Ely and Elko Nevada.... We have had coldest spot in the nation once or twice thru the years
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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Well... OK.

Had one of the block heaters that installs inline with the lower radiator hose. Seemed to work OK to me, but never really put it to the test. A garage is a beautiful thing.
 
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