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Hi all I just purchased a used TT. It's a 2010 Aljo lite. It's a 24 ft with a slide out. First time tow this weekend and backing up was certainly interesting.
The question I have is when these trailers are parked without being atttached to the truck with the trailer power etc. Is there a parking brake on the trailer?
I did keep it level and chocked the tires. I don't want it to roll away on a slight grade. I know this is possibly the silliest question on this board...
oh man thanks! I'll be darn sure everything is chocked tight before I unhitch FOR SURE!
I made sure, but know I know it COULD potentially roll away...
Thank you!
oh man thanks! I'll be darn sure everything is chocked tight before I unhitch FOR SURE!
I made sure, but know I know it COULD potentially roll away...
Thank you!
We came in late at night to a state campground and rushed. I forgot to chock and as the camper came off the hitch (bumper pull at that time), it started to roll. It didn't get far, but that was one quick way to have chocking burned into my head.
Something else that works real well are Bal X Chocks. The go between the wheels and put pressure on each. I use one on each side. Plus they help take away some of the rocking motion when walking around.
I just went to camping world and bought about 400.00 bucks worth of stuff, chemicals for the toilet, that special TP. Hoses, doodads...I bought a solar panel from Harbor freight.
Trailer came with a weight distribution hitch. That's pretty cool. I still don't understand all that but it seems to work.
Congrats! It looks like it's set up right, that's a plus!
I have heard tales of trailers rolling away but I've never actually seen it myself.
The first thing you want to do is level the camper from side to side. Most people use wood planks to pull up on, others use plastic blocks; I use Anderson levelers. It's all personal preference. Once you have the camper level from side to side and well chocked, put a block or two under the tongue jack, take pressure off the WD bars, remove them, then lower the tongue to unhitch. You'll have to lift it again to get the ball out from under the coupler. Then level from front to rear. After that set your stabilization jacks, connect power, water, and sewer. Then run your slide out. You can run it out earlier if you like, but mine gets in the way of connecting to the sewer line.
I once set up on a very steep spot. So steep I was concerned about the camper running over the chocks and running away. I put a stake in the ground and attached the break away cable to it just in case. It never moved, but I felt better knowing it wouldn't roll too far if it did decide to make a break for it.
Good luck, and enjoy!
Did you setup the hitch? Or was it setup at the shop?
I ask because, on mine, the shop did not properly tighten the "tension" bolt under the hitch ball. This bolt is parallel to the ground and applies tension the "drop-bar" of the hitch. Your "drop-bar" is pointing upwards; it's the bar with the height adjustment holes in it.
One pair of holes on my hitch ball U-bracket is elongated, to allow for a slight ball pitch adjustment. On my first towing adventure, (returning from CA to ID), with my trailer, I heard and felt "clunking" when stopping and accelerating from a stop. I had a different shop take a look at the hitch setup. They found that bolt was only finger-tight. BAD situation. They corrected it and I made it home to ID without any issues.
Something else that works real well are Bal X Chocks. The go between the wheels and put pressure on each. I use one on each side. Plus they help take away some of the rocking motion when walking around.
I was going to say the type that go between the 2 tires also.
The last thing I unhook are the safety chains this way if it wants to run it will not get to far.
Dave - - - -
Hi there fuzzface2 Yep that's the last think undid! I'm going to see about those inbetween tire chocks this weekend.
As for the drop bar, It was set up for a chevy 1500. That was the truck that the prior owner had.
Since I just dragged this trailer home I'm going to drop the "drop bar" down a notch. With the added weight of the fresh water tank full the front should drop to about level for traveling.
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