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Need Help! Two Waterpump Studs seized

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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 01:11 PM
  #1  
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Need Help! Two Waterpump Studs seized

Got my water pump off and now trying to get the timing cover removed, but two of the bolts that snapped won't budge. I don't have a welder to get a nut on the exposed studs. Please help guys!

 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 07:06 PM
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Have you tried heat? sometimes that will help. Vise grips an a propane torch.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 11:28 PM
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Vice grips on the studs and heat the housing around them, then rock the stud back and forth as you turn it out, that will help keeping them from seizing as they come out and save the threads in the cover.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 03:44 AM
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Heat the stud and quench with penetrating oil

Heat the stud and quench with penetrating oil

Heat the stud and quench with penetrating oil

Heat the stud and quench with penetrating oil

Heat the stud and quench with penetrating oil

And then do it a few more times.

After you have used up all your penetrating oil and kept from burning your truck to the ground grab the stud with vise grips or a stud puller and slowly spin it out.

If you don't want to go the vice grip or stud puller route you could cut some threads on it and use a jam nut setup and hit it with an impact after doing the penetrating oil/ heat lather rinse repeat dance.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:28 AM
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Moved to the previous generation forum.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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Your in better shape than most who run into this problem.

You actually have bolt sticking out and not snapped off flush with the block.

You need HEAT! Go buy a propane torch or a MAPP torch. The money spent now will be worth the headache if you snap those 2 bolts off flush with the block.

As others said, HEAT and penetrating oil. Rock them back and forth slow with vise grips. It took me an hour a bolt in April to do the same thing.
Patience is the key here. Haste makes waste...
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:53 AM
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Ummm... Are the front pan bolts out? From what I see, cover should come off with the heads broke off. Heating/penetrant with the cover still on is not going to do anything when the corrosion is down on the block surface.

Am I missing something or not? Just asking.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 07:59 PM
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OP, if you haven't already gotten them out...

Get that timing cover off first. As mentioned, there are 4 bolts that go into the cover from the oil pan, remove them and the cover will slide off the crank.

Then, do as the others have said with heat and penetrating oil (note that WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, use something else) but do NOT try to turn them out in one shot. Instead you have to have patience and MORE heat and penetrating oil. Pick a stud and start turning it out til you feel resistance. It may only turn an 1/8 of a turn or less at first so do not force it! Once you hit resistance turn it back in a little (but not all the way) and apply more heat and oil. Turn it back out... it should come out a little farther this time but still do not force it, and when you feel resistance again, repeat the above (turn in, apply heat + oil, turn out a little farther) and note that you might have to spend a good 20 minutes or so per bolt doing this BUT that sure beats breaking it off in the engine block.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 08:42 PM
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I made a little drill bit kinda thing when I had issues with mine. Check out a thread called Homemade Lifesaver. Might just be what you need.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 09:11 AM
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Those bolts are so plentiful with meat, I'd weld a nut to what's left. Don't be bashful with the weld, the excess heat from welding is killing a few birds with one stone.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
Those bolts are so plentiful with meat, I'd weld a nut to what's left. Don't be bashful with the weld, the excess heat from welding is killing a few birds with one stone.
He doesn't have a welder.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:11 AM
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S'pose it duzz helps to reed da poast
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:19 AM
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I'd use Kroil oil on those studs and let it sit overnight or even a few days with spraying multiple times.
 
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