Carb Stud Removal
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
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From: Near Los Angeles
Carb Stud Removal
I have an Offy DP with a Edelbrock on it. I'm getting ready to install a Q.Jet. This will require removing the existing studs and moving them to the inside holes.
The intake is about 2.5 years old. I'm sure I used quality 'cheapo' studs. What do you guys think about the possibility of the studs breaking? Should I heat the manny at the studs with a torch first?
Feedback?
The intake is about 2.5 years old. I'm sure I used quality 'cheapo' studs. What do you guys think about the possibility of the studs breaking? Should I heat the manny at the studs with a torch first?
Feedback?
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
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From: In my own world
use a map gas torch [yellow bottle, it burns hotter than propane] to heat the stud. remove the heat and hold a candle on the stud, it will melt down the stud, and wick into the threads. allow this to cool, then take 2 nuts, and run them down together, this will turn the stud into a bolt,when they tighten together, and allow you to remove the stud with a wrench.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 509
Likes: 4
From: Casper, Wyoming
You don't want much heat, just enough to make spit boil. Then use the paraffin like Charlie says.
I'd probably try to remove them without heat first, though; I'd twist them just enough to see that they can't be removed without heat.
And naturally, when you install new top quality ones you'll use lots of anti-sieze.
I'd probably try to remove them without heat first, though; I'd twist them just enough to see that they can't be removed without heat.
And naturally, when you install new top quality ones you'll use lots of anti-sieze.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
What is the purpose of the heat & wax?
I've used Charlie's procedure of putting nuts on 'em and then twisting the things out but have never heard of the heat & wax.
Another thing I've done is used a cut-off tool to grind screwdriver slots into the tops.
I've used Charlie's procedure of putting nuts on 'em and then twisting the things out but have never heard of the heat & wax.
Another thing I've done is used a cut-off tool to grind screwdriver slots into the tops.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
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From: Sacramento
I've never had to use heat on anything with studs that was aluminum, just the cast iron stuff. I would try without the heat first theres a good chance they'll pop loose we dont usually use heat until everything else has failed.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
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From: In my own world
the heat allows the wax to go down, and wick into the threads, aluminum and steel corrode, and make a bond better than super glue. the wax lubes the bond, and the fastener will come out. you can, as the others said, skip this step, but remember that if the corrosion is too great, it will rip the aluminum threads out, then you will need to drilll and instal a helicoil
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
I'll get after it in a day or so. I think I'll go with grade eight studs for the new Q.jet. Two of the studs will have to be about 6" long to go through the carb. Yes, I will certainly use anti seize compound, and will also slot the top of the studs so they can be installed through carb. I'll also pick up some crimp nuts.
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Jul 8, 2008 05:52 AM
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