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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #1  
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95350PS
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get creative here people

Need to save the hub spacers are seized on the studs spacers actually have studs that thread onto the factory studs ive tried days of soaking and double nutting with no luck need more options i am willing to buy new spacers and studs if need be heres a few pics of the problem



 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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get them red hot with a torch and then splash them with water.....
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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Heat, lots and lots of heat. Heat the bottom of the stud right before it goes into the spacer till its red hot then hit it with oil. The hot cool shock should help. I would then try to get a pipe wrench on the stud below the threads to attempt to unthread them.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Try heating them with a torch down at the smooth part of the stud. Heat them all up, then let them cool down completely. Thread a nut down on the stud til it's flush with the top of the stud, then smack it with a hammer one time. Soak again, then try double nutting and an impact.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Hah, both you guys beat me! I guess I'm a slow typer LOL!!
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:25 PM
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Those studs press out.no threading on them.u just need a bfh!
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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They dont press out its an aftermarket set up done during the centurion conversion and already tried bfh all i did was bend a stud lol
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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Only one way those things are coming off and that is with the help of a torch. I would double even triple nut those things up toward the top of the stud so that the top nut is flush with the top of the stud, then heat at the base until the stud is cherry red. Put a wrench on there and put pressure to loosen it and give it a good rap with a heavy hammer. The combination of heat, leverage and impact should jar them loose, but if not, then heat them up good and then let them cool. Spray liberally with your favorite penetrating lube (again, Aero Kroil is the best stuff available IMO, but it is hard to find without ordering it online). Let it soak a while and then try again.

The reason I would stay away from heating them up and then dousing them with oil or water is this. When you do that, you do a couple of things. One is that rapidly cooling the stud causes it to stay slightly larger than it was before you heated it. While this may help you get the stud loose, it isn't a good thing if you intend to reuse them for holding the wheels onto an truck that weighs 8,000 lbs when it is empty. The other reason is that doing that changes the molecular structure of the steel. It makes it harder, but more brittle. You're essentially heat tempering the steel studs and changing their strength properties. Again, doing this may help you get the studs off, but I would be leery about using the studs again after that. If you can get new ones, well then have at it, but I thought the whole point of this was to avoid having to get new studs and spacers.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman67
Those studs press out.no threading on them.u just need a bfh!
We have been through this already. They don't drive out. They are threaded extensions that thread over the stock studs and sandwich the 3" spaces onto his brake drums.

Here's a link to "The rest of the story" as Paul Harvey would say...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...xle-setup.html
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Yeah, let them cool down on their own.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Odds are by the time you double nut them and start twisting they will twist and stretch anyway, i think new studs are a requirement. Since where on the subject of new studs why not snap them off right at the spacer and drill them out.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Aero kroil Kano is amazing. Expensive buy works. I'd weld a nut to the studs. Then like said Id heat the base of the stud. One sharp smack with an impact should bust em loose. Since your not concerned about the spacer or studs.
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #13  
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Worse comes to worse I'd use an angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. Cut the studs as close to the hub as possible & then beat them out with a punch and BFH or press out with a hyd. press.
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by reckinbar
Worse comes to worse I'd use an angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. Cut the studs as close to the hub as possible & then beat them out with a punch and BFH or press out with a hyd. press.
That's just the problem though, you can't get to the studs... The studs you see sticking up there for the nut to be threaded onto is a dummy stud that is threaded onto the stud that is actually attached to the hub. The hub has the real studs that stick through the drum, then the spacer (which is 3" thick) is placed over the drum and those dummy studs are threaded onto the stock studs to hold the spacer, drum and hub together.

If you can't separate the stock studs from the studs that go with the spacer, your only recourse will be to cut the head off the stud (or drill them out) from the back side of the hub and then press them out toward the spacer. It's that or buy everything new...
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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From: evansville in
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
We have been through this already. They don't drive out. They are threaded extensions that thread over the stock studs and sandwich the 3" spaces onto his brake drums.

Here's a link to "The rest of the story" as Paul Harvey would say...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...xle-setup.html
Holy adapter batman! What a situation.it is like my 65powerstroke f600 rear wheels are.except they had the forethought to hex the outer to get the inner tires off.
some heat and a goot stud extractor or nuts as aforementioned will be the way to go,i guess this is my learning experience for today,thanks! Haha
 
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