Theoretically maybe. But remember you will have a lot of restriction with a housing that small. Like was mentioned before, I would go at least a .70a/r. As far as the radius goes, it is measured to the center of the area around the wheel. The area you are talking about only is the turbine wheel size.

 

So...
Update time.
I bought the .63 AR housing... Because I couldn't find anything between .63 and .83 in an off-the-shelf housing. Also, it was on sale for $200, free shipping.

So, we shall see. I figure it'll either work or it won't; and I'll have something to play around with.

In other news, the truck still is running. Not perfectly smooth(I really ought to check the injectors), but it does just fine. I've driven it every day since I posted last, with no issues. No coolant leaks(still worried about those cracks...).

It does have a worrying tick/chuff noise; very faint and fades in and out. Not sure if it's a lifter or one of the valve guides on the (worn) heads...

I also bought a new set of USA-made lifters from Dynamic Diesel; they just arrived and do indeed have a longer wear surface by a little. We shall see how they do over thanksgiving most likely.

 

I hope that housing isn't too small and creates too much drive pressure. Do you think the lifters could be not pressurizing or functioning fully and consequently slowing spool due to lack of flow through the engine due to the valves not completely opening?

 

I'm thinking it can't be any worse than my TE06H, and if it does work nicely but is a little restrictive at the top end, I can probably rig up a wastegate of some sort... Maby just install a bypass valve in the crossover pipe?
I'm thinking that if I can get 20-30 PSI out of it at reasonable RPM, I'll be plenty happy. I'd really like to get some decent boost at 1400-1600 RPM; the TE06H would give me 4 under load and the S360 gives me about 2 if that...

Eh... maby a little, but not enough to worry about. I think I have one lifter doing sketchy things(tick that comes and goes), but it doesn't /sound/ like that.
When I first swapped out Jan's headgaskets for stock ones, I used washers(~.060") under each rocker to make up for the thickness I took off the bottom of each rocker(.030"). This ended up with a much more "thumpy" sounding engine; like it had a large cam in it. Mainly because there was almost zero pressure on the lifter with the valve closed, so it was opening late and closing early.

Going back to stock rocker thickness(.030 shims), the sound changed to be 'normal idi' again, so I think that's more or less where it needs to be.

If anything, it's cam related... that's the only other thing I think it can be.

 

That would be so sweet. Can't wait to see how it goes. I just re-read the whole IDI turbocharger thread looking for something that spools way faster than my 093 but won't fall off the map at 3000rpm. I have mine running pretty good finally but your banks did better, at least by PSI numbers. I find more and more that you are like 4 steps ahead of me with practically the same power/drivetrain goals, so I follow your stuff closely. Such as your GVOD. SO JEALOUS.

 

Alright, so I just got my housing in.
This is going to be interesting, that's for sure.
This .63 housing has what seems to be a 3" V-band coupling on the outside vs the bolt-circle that the .83 housing had.
This is both good and bad - My downpipe is 2.75".
Tomorrow, I'm going to see about putting it on the lathe at work and seeing if I can make it match the TE06H's v-band like I did with my adapter on the .83 housing.

With any luck, I should be able to have it just drop in.

Which brings me to my next point. When I grabbed my TE06H, I put the .63 housing on top of the exhaust out port. It's... exactly the same size. At least, the T3 flange distance lines up exactly with the center, and the outer diameter is pretty close.
The only real difference between the two turbos now is the S360 has a much larger, more free-spinning wheel inside the same outer housing.
And the intake wheel is larger, too.

It sure looks like it'll be a really nice, tight setup. I'm fairly confident that it'll spool now, and if it does restrict a bit at the top end I can always add a wastegate....


BTW, my clattery old truck with the cracked heads is still running. I just hauled a 23' 5th wheel with it last Friday, the first time I've ever hauled a 5th wheel with that truck. It did OK... just, without a nicely-spooling turbo, it kind of lacks acceleration. Sure, it's probably far better than NA, but if I can't accelerate as fast or faster than the unloaded trucks next to me(with 6K of trailer on it)... what's the point? :P


In other news, I got my new set of heads in from Shawn MacAnanny.
I haven't had a chance to measure them, or decide what my build plan is yet, but it's a start.

 

I look forward to seeing how it runs. It should be interesting! You should go big on that other build with the cracked heads.

 

No no no... That's the /current/ build. I.e. my daily driver...
That being said, I /am/ going big to some extent - adding the turbo housing and seeing what it does.

My /next/ build(which will happen next spring/summer OR when this build fails), that will have decent heads etc. on it.

 

Alright... Progress!

Finally got a day to work on the truck.
Pulled the turbo off, removed the housing. Sooty!

The new housing looks /tiny/ compared to the old one.

Got it installed, but I ran into a few little issues:
1. The old housing has 4 bolts and two little keeper brackets; each one looks like a crescent with a bulge at each end with a hole in it. Effectively, it clamps over more than just each bolt hole.
The new housing has 4 bolt holes... in a 1/4" smaller bolt pattern. So the bolts fit, but not the keepers. I just used 4 washers to make it work.

2. After getting it installed, I realized that the outlet flange on the housing was 1/2" further "in" than the old housing, or the TE-06H. So the downpipe didn't fit.

I finally grabbed my custom adapter off the old housing(which converts 3" flat plate with 6 bolts to 2.75 V-band) and just used bolts with washers to clamp against the back of the V-band. I didn't expect it to seal well or at all, but at least let /most/ of the exhaust go down the pipe.

After all that... it works!
I'm quite happy with it so far. It's pretty slick, sounds awesome, spools quite nicely, and produces a lot more PSI. I've hit 28 once or twice flooring it... and the best part is I haven't seen much of any smoke while doing it. So that means I'm running into the limits of the 110 pump... good.

However... With more boost comes more boost /problems/. Mainly, I'm having trouble keeping the boots on. More specifically, the 2.25" boot going into the stock Banks air box. It's just a flat surface, and with all the oil in the air charge, it just doesn't want to hold.
I tried zip-tying it in place:
...With predictable results:



Since then, I've filed the sealing surface there, made it rougher. Hopefully it'll grab a bit better.


Going forward, though... I need a new air box. Any ideas?


Also, I have some youtube videos of all this... tomorrow, when they upload.

 

Cool! So the million dollar question is how many PSI are you getting at 1200 rpm? 1500? (And the comparative numbers from stock)

I'm not great at turbo maps but won't the smaller turbine housing make it run off the map lower in the RPM band than the stock one? Or is that more related to the compressor side?

That's great you already had an adapter for the exhaust like that. Sucks to be so close and then have to sit and wait for one little part to line up.

Got enough end wrenches??

Sorry no ideas about the air box. Maybe try to find an intake hat from the ATS setup or go with R&D's intake manifold.

 

Well, I'll have to do some testing, but it's decent. I haven't been able to put enough of a load on it to really test it(and I'm slightly worried about the boots as it is), but I know I hit 10 psi by 2k easily enough, and 20+ by 2400. You'll see when I finally get the videos up, but the I hit the accelerator and it just pulls.
It's a little weak down low, but that may be fueling - I have an aneroid setup to reduce fueling until I get boost, and it was tuned to match the previous spooling characteristics. Now, I think I can back it off a bit and /still/ not have to worry about smoking badly on low-RPM acceleration.

Compared to the stock turbo... I like it. It feels pretty darn responsive, perhaps even /more/ than the stock one. It also /sounds/ better. You are just gonna have to wait to hear it.


edit:
You should be able to watch once it finishes processing..

 

Well... F***.

Friday, I got up, went 10 miles into town to go shopping(Black Friday!).
Came back.
Went 50 miles to the nearest big city, got some gas, did some shopping.
The way there was uneventful; nice highway driving at 65 and 70MPH; had fun going up a steep hill at 75+ in double-overdrive. With the new turbo, it had plenty of power!
Drove another 50 miles on the back roads to my parents place(an hour away from home on the shortest route).
I recorded being able to hit 5 PSI at 1500 RPM; 10 PSI at 1800.
Turned it off, everything was fine.
Got my brother out to take a test run with me; I wanted to show off my newly modded truck. We went a couple miles up the road and back, up one large hill. I floored it, and hit about 30 PSI roaring up it.
Stopped at the top, let it idle for a bit while turning around, came back and turned it off.
Nothing was amiss.

So... Today, at 8AM, I get ready to go take a short drive over to a friends place, get the truck loaded.
I try to start it, and it sounds rough. Like running on 6 cylinders rough, smoking badly.
I popped the hood, found the advance wire had come loose the day before, and was disconnected.
Reconnected it, fired the truck up again. Still pretty rough.
I figured it was probably cold, so I drive forward about 50 ft. Still rough. Rev it up to about 2K... 10 seconds later, KA-THUNK. and the engine stops. F***.
It threw a rod.





It looks like the Cyl 3 or 4 connecting rod broke, punching nice holes in the oil pan. It also knocked a couple of small chunks out of the block.
It may well be scrap at this point, but we'll see.

Now, this is really odd. I won't know until I look inside at some future point, but...
Why? It had plenty of oil, decent oil pressure.
I'd expect it to blow under load... not unloaded, with zero PSI of boost.




Anyway, looks like it's on to plan B.
I have another 7.3 to rebuild, and it looks like I won't need to worry about needing 2 sets of performance parts like headstuds... this truck probably isn't going anywhere for a couple of months.

Looks like I'll be driving my second 88 (blue) IDI. It'll work, but man, I'll sure miss a turbo.

edit:
Note:
While it's annoying to blow up a motor, it could have happened in a lot worse places. As it was, it failed on my parents property(where my ford boneyard is), on a day I didn't /have/ to be somewhere immediately.
So, that's one bright spot in this otherwise dismal picture.

 

Ouch. After all that work... that really sucks.

 

p, li { white-space: pre-wrap; } To recap:
After the events in this topic, I bought a rusty '93 F-250 4x4 ZF-5 with a factory turbo kit and N/A block under it(looks to be an '88), back in December of 2016.
A couple of months later(still below freezing), the belt tensioner broke, belt broke and I limped it a good 3 miles to the auto parts store with no water pump. It made it, but got kind of warm(was below the 'hot' mark though).
After that, it has occasionally weeped coolant from the head gaskets on both sides.
What do I do? Figure "Meh, it's going to blow anyway", and stuck my RD2-110 IP on it off the Tan truck.
I dyno'd it in February 2016 I believe, and got a respectable 250 RWHP out of it.

Under two weeks later, I found this poor '92 with a Banks on it for $1500 sitting 3 hours away, and I went to pick it up. Halfway there, the DMF started to slip on me, and was really careful going there and back.

That was last February.
Between now and then... Nothing has majorly failed. I've replaced the DMFs in both those trucks, did maintaince, used them both for hauling and DDing... and they worked fine.



Just recently, I picked up a $350 complete IDIT. I didn't expect much, figuring that I'd probably have a worn out, knocking motor... but the turbo was more than worth it, and I figured I'd get a core out of the deal...
Get a chance, hook it up to power and a tank of fuel...


Alright, then! I have a good running motor!
So... I pulled the Tan truck out of the weeds at my dad's place. Got it loaded and hauled up to me with the '93.

Slightly the worse for wear, but nothing worse than when it was parked. Still lacking any straight body panels...




I finally got a good shot of the... hole in the oil pan. This picture barely does it justice...


Oil slick, from the trip here...

p, li { white-space: pre-wrap; }



In the process of loading it(with my dad's bobcat), he managed to hook the right rear brake line.


I fixed it with a new line right there on the trailer. Offloading a truck is no fun without brakes or a usable engine.


Interestingly enough, the one thing that everyone expected from by .030 overbore(cavitation/coolant leaking) still hasn't happened - It's still perfectly full of coolant!



Next steps:
1. Find some time.
2. Pull the motor
3. Do a post-mortem, see what's savable.
4. Decide what all I want to do with the new motor before installing it.
5. Install the motor.

p, li { white-space: pre-wrap; }

 

Hey thanks for the updates! Good to see you have some time to get after that block and do an autopsy.

About your earlier question, "why would the rod let go under such little load", I have a thought.
Not sure how to quantify it but it seems there is a stress point with metals where they "hold up" through shock load or torque, etc, and yet are structurally very weak and end up failing soon after the load or torque spike happened, even lasting days in regular service sometimes.

I drive class B shred trucks (10 years) and one truck had a VERY grabby clutch for years. It must have been oil fouled. We ended up breaking close to 10 driveshaft on this darn thing over 4-5 years. And an axle. Anyway the super grabby clutch would engage faster than you meant to and didn't have any give. It would shock load the drive train and boom goes the welded seam on the axle shaft. (Usually on a nasty hill in Seattle)
But a few times it would go just barely starting out, with no shock load AT ALL. The damage had to have been done earlier in the day or week, and finally the weak link let go.
We also have a shred truck with a gear-reduction compactor. The gear box is a monster 350lb dodge unit and has broken at least 10 times in 11 years. It does this when roughly over 9,000 of paper is shredded and compacted into the back of the truck, and sometimes it'll happen right there as you overload the truck and other times the next day after the truck is empty and has about zero stress on it. Or a week later, or longer. Anyway these are my most relevant comparisons since I've never broken an engine from too much boost and awesomeness.

I'm also really surprised more people aren't jumping on this thread...only reason I didn't before is the dumb phone app wouldn't run at all for a few months, then just wouldn't let me reply. Now they've finally fixed the darn thing after 6 or 8 months... (I have two computers, but also two kiddos! There's very little sitting down surfing time around here)

I can't wait to see what you find!