6637 intake, Dp tuner, MBRP 4in exhaust, just did a banks turbo rebuild with wheel, waste gate, and EBPV delete(banks elbow). Also took the valve out of the pedestal and tapped and plugged the hole so it wouldn't leak.
So here's the story. Decided to do a turbo rebuild on my pickup to increase air flow and improve power a little. First problem was forgetting to tighten the turbo to pedestal bolts 😵🔫. Started truck and was listening to the turbo, sounded like a big exhaust leak as you could imagine and then the truck shuts off after a few seconds because it drained like 2 1/2 gallons on the ground. After being mad at myself I repositioned the O rings and bolted it down to spec. Had to take it on and off about 4 times to get it to seal, it was a PITA. After getting that good, the oil dipstick gasket at the oil pan decides to start leaking a drop every 2 seconds. Had to replace that, coincidence? Idk. Got that fixed and it ran good for a short 2 minute drive and then started losing throttle response and eventually no throttle. Shut off and start again It would work for a short time and then eventually quit working. We then replaced TPS no change, and then the IDM and now my throttle always works but has no power after warming up. Tried unplugging MAFs and it run worse. Tried replacing the ICP and no change. All connections look good. Cleaned the exterior and replaced the magnetic deal and connector on the IPR. Gonna try replacing the whole IPR next. After that I'm guessing weak HPOP, not able to keep up with air flow and tuner. Plus it had 320k miles on it. Also when I ran it out of oil on the rebuild it could has screwed something up? All this stuff can't be coincidental. It must relate somehow. It ran fine before turbo rebuild. Anyways we buzzed the injectors those look good, compression test was good, no blow by from oil cap either, it runs good at first with 20-40% duty cycle and ICP reached up to the 2000s when floored. Once it's warmed up the duty cycle goes way up 99.5% and the ICP 700-900 WOT. Every thread I've found couldn't never find the problem, it just ended so I'm deciding to make my own. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

Could be bad o-rings on injectors. Try doing a Cody test and see if you can hear bypassing

 

I don't think it would be leaky O rings because it works great at first until it warms up. With leaky o rings wouldn't I always have that power loss? Also I don't know what a Cody test is but we did do a buzz test on the injectors and they come back good.

 

Isn't power loss once the engine starts to warm a sign of a failing or stuck IPR? Would this also explain the spike in the duty cycle?

 

Yeah that's the information we've gathered. Good news and bad news, the IPR replacement has seemed to fix the power problem, I have not had a drastic power loss yet. The bad is that for some reason my engine sprung a bunch of oil leaks. Crankcase vent to valve cover, pedestal to engine is starting to seep a little, the oil fill tube to crankcase is leaking and running down the side of the valve cover, dipstick o ring at oil pan, and probably any other little area...my thought was blow by creating crankcase pressure and creating a bunch of leaks, but my oil just slowly vibrates off it doesn't blow the cap off. But I do see some oil smoke coming from the oil cap. It runs great otherwise, idle is good, and rpms are good. Any ideas why these leaks would all the sudden to start to happen? Better not be a coincidence like my last 30 problems...

 

Not so much as a coincidence as a pinched CCV hose when you mounted the turbo intake tube. Look under the turbo intake, and you might find the CCV hose knuckled over.

 

That's what I was thinking since I did a CCV mod. The hose was too small and must have been restricting it. I put it back to stock and so far it's working. Only problem is a very small oil leak and still a small power loss when warmed up. But much better than it was.

 

Injector O rings would do just that, onced warmed up the oil will bypass the o rings. Do what Paul said.

 

Did you check ICP % and psi since IPR replacement?

Just for fun, how does the turbo wheel feel now? Still spin freely and tight? I ask since the turbo bearings might have run dry for quite some time when it was leaking at the pedestal.