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Dome light switch workings

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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 07:51 PM
  #1  
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Dome light switch workings

Can anyone explain to me, or help me with a link, to how the wiring of the dome light in the cabin works? 2003 Ford E-350 Van.

I'm redoing the interior and want to replace the dome light with an LED fixture and a switch, but I cannot still figure out how these three wires in to the dome light work so that I can replace it appropriately.

There are three wires, one black, one black with blue stripe, one green with a yellow stripe. I was expecting to be able to use an ON-OFF-ON rocker, as I thought either 2 of the wires were power and 1 ground, or vice versa. No such luck.

I can connect the wires so my light turns on when the doors are open, but I cannot figure out how to wire them so I get the always-on function. If anything I expected to stumble upon the opposite result. With the doors open, using a multimeter, I see 12V @ BLCK-GRN and! at BLCK-BlckBlue... but with the doors closed I don't see 12V across any two of the three connections. I wonder if I accidentally clipped a ground/power wire somewhere too?

Ah anyways, this is turning in to way more a headache than I expected. Any help appreciated!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 07:05 AM
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I will be watching this thread since I want to replace mine as well. I removed my front dome light and installed a DVD player in its place. The player has LED lights, but they turn on with a switch on the player, not when the door opens.

IIRC I had 2 power sources coming in. One was always hot and the other was only hot when the door opened (and maybe when the dome light switch on the dash was activated).

Do you have 1 that is hot all the time? Is the 3rd wire a ground, but only closed when the dash switch is on? Was there also a ground wire from the fixture to the roof of the van or ws the fixture rounded to the roof somehow?

But I could very easily be wrong about this. I installed the dvd player 3-4 years ago and at the time I didn't do too much testing since I wasn't planning on putting a front dome back in.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 03:27 PM
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Unfortunately the outcome isn't so excited.

When I was uninstalling the dome light I blew Fuse #4. With the fuse replaced, it was found that these three wires are as expected: Ground, (+) Always-On, (+) Door-Switch.

So, a simple ON-OFF-ON rocker switch works perfectly fine as a replacement, and my Simple LED light will now be the easy part of redoing the cabin roof.

Good luck Jay! Let me know if I can help you out at all.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by shotskie
Unfortunately the outcome isn't so excited.

When I was uninstalling the dome light I blew Fuse #4. With the fuse replaced, it was found that these three wires are as expected: Ground, (+) Always-On, (+) Door-Switch.

So, a simple ON-OFF-ON rocker switch works perfectly fine as a replacement, and my Simple LED light will now be the easy part of redoing the cabin roof.

Good luck Jay! Let me know if I can help you out at all.
Glad it was something simple. Make sure you post up pictures of your install.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 10:21 PM
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I should start a separate thread but couldn't help myself after putting like eight hours in to this today and just finishing...

Here's the completed roof panel. The plan is to line the perimeter with black carpet as well and then fit this over it. I'll have the panel screws outside the carpet but I think this will give the cleanest lines for the carpet and I can paint the screws black also, they'll blend in well enough I think. 1/4" neoprene is for sound insulation, I don't bother to be too precise with it, I'm not after perfect here just better.

Whew! Every little details commands a lot of work, these darn projects!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by shotskie
I should start a separate thread but couldn't help myself after putting like eight hours in to this today and just finishing...

Here's the completed roof panel. The plan is to line the perimeter with black carpet as well and then fit this over it. I'll have the panel screws outside the carpet but I think this will give the cleanest lines for the carpet and I can paint the screws black also, they'll blend in well enough I think. 1/4" neoprene is for sound insulation, I don't bother to be too precise with it, I'm not after perfect here just better.

Whew! Every little details commands a lot of work, these darn projects!
Looking good. Take some pics once it is installed. You could also take this chance to add some reflectix insulation to the van ceiling to help reflect the heat in the summer.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jayro88
Looking good. Take some pics once it is installed. You could also take this chance to add some reflectix insulation to the van ceiling to help reflect the heat in the summer.
I was going to suggest the same. +1!

And please share the finished install! Looks great!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:30 PM
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Thanks guys! I just created a thread for the whole campervan conversion, can hopefully keep it updated project-by-project along the way. I just put all the details up of the roof install, lots of pics.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16430780
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 02:49 PM
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AMAZON had a package of bayonet LED replacements ...the length was either long or short but the LED fits the OEM holder. Blinding.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ROADHOGE250
AMAZON had a package of bayonet LED replacements ...the length was either long or short but the LED fits the OEM holder. Blinding.
I replaced all of mine from Amazon, I think it was less than $20 to replace all the bulbs (both courtesy and map/switched lights). The bulbs were slightly smaller in diameter so I had to pinch the bulb holder "sockets" to make them fit tighter.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 10:10 PM
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I saw the LED replacement bulbs but it wasn't really an option for me... I knew I wanted to redo the ceiling in a nicer, more permanent fashion that would match, to some degree, the coming installations in the back and the OEM fixture wasn't going to get that done for me. While the wiring was a bit confusing at first (mostly my own doing, blowing that #4 fuse twice in this work) I think the final result is way more attractive than before and am very pleased. The LED light I went with isn't blinding, but neither is it too weak, think it'll be just right in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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