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What I've checked - I've tested the motor by running 12 volts straight from the battery to the orange wire to the blower motor. MOTOR WORKS.
I've checked power from the switch to the resistor. The plug that goes into the resistor has power at one of the prongs when switched at the control switch which means the switch is working and the power is getting to the resistor. With the plug connected to the resistor, there is power at the prong that goes to the blower motor (where the orange wire connects) 12 volts when the orange wire is NOT connected. when I do connect the orange wire to the prong there shows NO power. I'm thinking it is the resistor but there seems to be no damage to the coiled wires or anything else on the resistor. I'm stumped at this point, can anyone help? Thanks in advance.
Bypass the resistor by disconnecting both wire leads from the blower motor. Ground one wire and (momentarily) put +12 volts on the other motor lead.
If the blower motor doesn't turn over either the bearings are bad or the motor is shot. If the blower motor does turn over, the problem is further up stream --resistor, wiring, etc.
Bypass the resistor by disconnecting both wire leads from the blower motor. Ground one wire and (momentarily) put +12 volts on the other motor lead.
If the blower motor doesn't turn over either the bearings are bad or the motor is shot. If the blower motor does turn over, the problem is further up stream --resistor, wiring, etc.
Thanks, that's the first thing I did. The blower motor works. and I'm getting power to the input of the resistor. and then to the output as long as the orange wire is not connected to that output prong.
If there's power on the source (battery) side of the resistor but no power on the load (motor) side of the resistor, sounds like the resistor is suspect.
If you have a multimeter, switch it to ohms and measure the resistance from tab to tab on the resistor with no power supplied to the resistor. If the meter reads zero or close to it, then the resistor should be good. Wiggle the tabs around when measuring because there 'may' be a hairline crack you can't see. If the meter reads infinite, then the resistor is bad someplace. Some meters have a tone making them easier to use when checking continuity. Use alligator clips (roach clip for us old guys) if possible. Only other thing that I can see is the orange wire connector 'may' be bad.
I'm guessing it's like this part or something similar.
One problem fixed, now another. I found a wire that the PO must have added. The light for the AC controls were wired to the brown wire that feeds power to the HVAC system. As soon as I clipped it, the blower started working. I let it run for a few minutes while I hooked up the gauges to see if there was any pressure in the system and it blew the fuse. I replaced it and a few moments later it blew again. The fuse was HOT. I THINK the prongs that hold on to the ends of the barrel fuse is very loose causing it to heat up. I'll try to sand them down and bend them to give a better grip on the fuse and report back.
If that resistor is good then the motor is going bad. If it blows the fuse it sounds like the motor is struggling to keep going, so it is drawing more Amps. The bearings may be bad or the windings- I don't know if that motor has brushes or not. The resistor gives you the ability for variable speeds, that's it's only function in life.