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Eliminating rear tank

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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #1  
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Eliminating rear tank

I have a 96 F250 gas with dual tanks. The rear has a leak and rusty support straps. At 215k miles I'm not putting a new one in, I've replaced the front before so it should last the life of the truck. Is it feasible or easy to plug the lines with tank removed?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:45 PM
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It must be easy to do because half of the F-Trucks that I have bought over the years have had their tank lines 'farmed-up' by previous owners using bolts and hose clamps. Kind-of a sore subject for OBS dual tank truck owners b/c all of the junkyards cut the lines when they remove the tanks. What you are going to do is not easy to undo.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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So your logic for not putting a new tank in, is that is has 215,000 miles? What?

A new rear tank is $68 from RockAuto. By removing the rusty straps and taking down the rotten tank, you're going to have done all of the hard work already. It's completely ridiculous to not put a new tank up there when you're going to go through all the work of taking the old tank down and plugging the lines.

Plus, a 16 gallon front tank doesn't get you very far with a powertrain that gets 10-12 MPG...
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 11:59 PM
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Please do not hack up the factory lines ... There is someone that will trade you hacked ones for non hacked ones!

Besides if your pulling the tank, cut the steel lines off the Sending unit, fold the cutoff end and solder them into plugs to use in the Quick disconnects.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 12:41 AM
  #5  
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It's a farm truck that is rarely over 10 miles from home. 20 years of Ohio salt has taken its toll on the cab as well. I'm not putting in a new tank without a new pump, which is $274 for a tank and pump assembly, plus another 40 for straps.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 01:06 AM
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Amen!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by AC-MAN
It's a farm truck that is rarely over 10 miles from home. 20 years of Ohio salt has taken its toll on the cab as well. I'm not putting in a new tank without a new pump, which is $274 for a tank and pump assembly, plus another 40 for straps.
So you've probably got a "clean" truck by michigan standards. The stock Ford pumps are great and not worth replacing until they break, even then it's not that hard to drop the tank if it fails later. If you've got a pick-n-pull junkyard nearby it might be worth looking for a tank there. The hole they drill is easy to patch with the tank out and rusted out trucks that wind up in the junkyard usually have a handful of parts on them that were replaced due to rust (spring hangers, core supports, gas tanks, etc)

You can justify not doing it the right way however you want but the Internet will be really good at poking holes in your logic

I don't see why everyone gets bent out of shape over hacked up fuel lines. You'd think nobody here owns tube flaring tools.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 08:08 AM
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Oh yeah? You're going to flare those plastic fuel liness?

Anways, to the OP. Just order the new tank from RockAuto with new straps. Don't be a hack. If the pump dies, so be it. Then you were back to where you started.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AC-MAN
It's a farm truck that is rarely over 10 miles from home. 20 years of Ohio salt has taken its toll on the cab as well. I'm not putting in a new tank without a new pump, which is $274 for a tank and pump assembly, plus another 40 for straps.
Well, I hear you, but consider this;

The cost of replacing that tank and pump is probably the same as half a dozen fills. More like 3 or 4 up here where we are paying the equivalent of $5 a gallon for fuel. Another way to look at it is it is approximately half of one payment on a new truck and you probably won't have to replace that tank again. It's probably $20 or so for hardware to block the lines properly and safely.

Would I do without the convenience of full fuel capacity simply to skimp on a maintenance item? Well, no, but it is your truck and your choice.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 12:54 PM
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Best way to do it is like festus said. Drop tank cut off old line from top of sending unit, flatten them, roll them up and solder them shut. Then reinstall into the factory quick connect. If you leave them open you risk losing fuel from bad check valves at the junction near the front tank.
 
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