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Thanks guys and keep the tips coming. I got the socket for the IPR ordered and it will be here tomorrow. I will look around the IPR tonight for bad/melted wiring. I also ordered a couple of fittings for doing the air test if I have to.
Okay guys update to the problem. I played with the wiring on the IPR valve and the truck started right up. While the truck was running I reached the wiring with a plastic pipe and played with the wiring and the truck cut off. I now have a new pigtail coming tomorrow that I will splice on to the bad wiring and go from there.
Any tips on what all I got to remove to get to the wiring so I can slice the new pigtail on?
Okay guys update to the problem. I played with the wiring on the IPR valve and the truck started right up. While the truck was running I reached the wiring with a plastic pipe and played with the wiring and the truck cut off. I now have a new pigtail coming tomorrow that I will splice on to the bad wiring and go from there.
Any tips on what all I got to remove to get to the wiring so I can slice the new pigtail on?
Actually remove the air filter, drain enough coolant to empty the degas bottle, disconnect the 2 small hoses from the degas bottle, remove the 2 bolts holding the degas bottle and position out of the way, then you can remove the FICM, just be careful with the FICM connectors as they can be brittle, there are pinch tabs on 2 sides on each of the 3 connectors one facing the drivers side and one facing the passenger side. Make sure when reinstalling the FICM connectors that you hear the audible click when they seat and make sure the connectors are pushed in straight so you don't bend any pins.
Actually remove the air filter, drain enough coolant to empty the degas bottle, disconnect the 2 small hoses from the degas bottle, remove the 2 bolts holding the degas bottle and position out of the way, then you can remove the FICM, just be careful with the FICM connectors as they can be brittle, there are pinch tabs on 2 sides on each of the 3 connectors one facing the drivers side and one facing the passenger side. Make sure when reinstalling the FICM connectors that you hear the audible click when they seat and make sure the connectors are pushed in straight so you don't bend any pins.
Thanks that helps a bunch. I will update if I get to work on it tomorrow night.
A very big congrats on finding the problem. I've heard some reach the IPR from the bottom without removing anything. Ivrvnever tried it, but if I was removing the pigtail, I'd give it a look? However, it may be difficult to get enough muscle on the connector to get it loose.
Stopped on the way home today and picked up a new Alliant AP0068 2 wire pigtail to fix the faulty wiring. Got home and removed air cleaner, relocated the coolant bottle, and removed the FICM. I then could barely get hand in there and remove the IPR plug and pulled the wiring up to make it easier to splice new pigtail on. Wiring was in pretty bad shape with quite a few bare spots. I spliced new wiring all the way up into the main harness and then spliced the new pigtail on. Soldered all connections and heat shrinked everything and taped back up. There was a aluminum cloth on the old cable that I also put back on as best as I could and taped that up. Should last at least another 13 years hopefully.
Truck fired right up and had these few codes
P2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit low
P0403 EGR Control circuit (it has been deleted)
P0405 EGR Sensor A Circuit low (it has been deleted)
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory
P1000 Powertrain
P2623 Injector Control Pressure Regulator Circuit/Open
I assume most of these are from the original stall problem and faulty wiring. Cleared the fault codes and took a quick ride with no problems and truck running great again.
Thanks for everyone's help and links. I was worried it was going to be worse than it was.
Stopped on the way home today and picked up a new Alliant AP0068 2 wire pigtail to fix the faulty wiring. Got home and removed air cleaner, relocated the coolant bottle, and removed the FICM. I then could barely get hand in there and remove the IPR plug and pulled the wiring up to make it easier to splice new pigtail on. Wiring was in pretty bad shape with quite a few bare spots. I spliced new wiring all the way up into the main harness and then spliced the new pigtail on. Soldered all connections and heat shrinked everything and taped back up. There was a aluminum cloth on the old cable that I also put back on as best as I could and taped that up. Should last at least another 13 years hopefully.
Truck fired right up and had these few codes
P2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit low
P0403 EGR Control circuit (it has been deleted)
P0405 EGR Sensor A Circuit low (it has been deleted)
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory
P1000 Powertrain
P2623 Injector Control Pressure Regulator Circuit/Open
I assume most of these are from the original stall problem and faulty wiring. Cleared the fault codes and took a quick ride with no problems and truck running great again.
Thanks for everyone's help and links. I was worried it was going to be worse than it was.
You're welcome, glad to see you got it going and thank you for the update.
Good news! Did you check for codes after your drive?
No lights on the dash but not sure if it has any pending or hidden right now. Tomorrow I will clean up the tools and reload my STX tune and scan once again and of course take it for a quick spin to check once again. I will report back tomorrow.
Clear the codes, drive it and then... check the codes again. Sometimes tuning will hide issues, if your satisfied that it's good, then program the tune in.
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