Electronic diff won't unlock
But I have a 2011 F250 powerstroke and it has the electronic locking differential option, I engaged the locker the other night and it will not unlock now. Rear axle binds and skips around turns. The light on the dash illuminates as it should when the 4x4 **** is pulled out as it should, But the axle remains locked when pushed back in. I unplugged the actuator on the rear diff and tried to pull it out, but once the bolt is out and and the sensor starts to come out, it stops, I'm assuming there are wires going to the actuator inside the housing, but I'm not 100% sure. I've never worked with electonic locking diffs before. I'm a kenworth diesel tech so I usually deal with air operated everything haha. I also found the fuses in the high current fuse box located in the engine bay, fuses 53 & 54 are for the ABS and 4x4 modules. Both fuses were good, and there is no fault shown on the dash. I called a ford dealership near me who was open late, and they said there is a TSB for this issue, TSB 10-23-3. I looked it up and it says to try and re-flash the abs module, if that does not fix it, then to replace the housing.... Really not wanting to replace the housing. My next step before trying to get ford to re-flash the abs module was to pop the rear diff cover off and see if I can manually disengage it. Any help would be much appreciated.
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I had trouble finding info regarding Ford's e-locker. I asked the engineers here (on the ask an engineer section) and got this reply:
"The locker is engaged with an electro-magnetic coil. The coil will push against 3 pins, which press what we call a “lock ring” against a set of teeth on one of the diff side gears. This locks the differential from left to right, ensuring that torque is split evenly."
Perhaps those details help some? I am guessing the pins are returned to their non-locked position by a spring or something. Good luck.
-W
Last edited by Wambo; Jul 9, 2016 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Type-o
Thanks for the info, I was having a hard time trying to find inform on the elocker myself, seems like either no one has a problem with it or I'm one of the only ones haha. I will be tearing the rear end apart when I get off of work today. Maybe if I can supply 12V to the coil, it'll come free, I'm going to replace the switch as well, seeing as I'm not the original owner of the truck, nor do I know what kind of life it had before I owned it.
Hope you find the problem. If its convenient, take some pictures of the diff's internal parts. There aren't any that I could find on-line. I'm sure there are folks who will benefit from them some day!
-W
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When the operator sets the Mode Select Switch (MSS) to either 4L, 4H or ON position (depending upon vehicle option content) to activate the ELD , the ELD icon displays in the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) message center. If the vehicle is driven above the disengage speed, the IPC message center no longer displays the ELD icon, alerting the operator that the ELD is disengaged. Once the vehicle drops below the re-engage speed, the IPC message center displays the ELD icon again. If there is a malfunction with the ELD system, a "CHECK LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL" message is displayed in the IPC message center, letting the operator know the ELD is not engaged.
The differential locks when a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) controlled magnetic field coil located inside the differential energizes. A collar within the differential moves toward a differential side gear and engages a dog clutch within the differential. This locks the differential side gears and creates the locked differential.
The Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) activates the ELD . When the ELD is engaged, the TCCM sends PWM voltage to the ELD field coil located in the differential. This voltage is initially 98% duty cycle, and then tapers off to 40% duty cycle after 30 seconds. In order for the TCCM to activate the ELD , certain conditions must be met.
TCCM Input Conditions
MSS set to ELD position
Average rear wheel speed versus average front wheel speed must be less than 15 km/h (9 mph) (via High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) communication from ABS module)
Operating range (voltage between 9-16 volts)
DTC setting range (voltage between 10-15 volts)
Ignition in the ON position
Throttle Position (TP) less than 50%
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if switch is broken, look in manual.. might be a fuse.. remove fuse. then replace switch.
My bet is a pin or the lock ring is broke/stuck. I know your not suppose to, but, I accidentally drove my truck from my lower drive up the street to my main drive with the locker engaged. It was ruff to say the least. I can see it messing something up in a >7k truck. I've also yet to Benefit from the locker. Always had to engage 4wd, locker just throws the truck sideways.
My bet is a pin or the lock ring is broke/stuck. I know your not suppose to, but, I accidentally drove my truck from my lower drive up the street to my main drive with the locker engaged. It was ruff to say the least. I can see it messing something up in a >7k truck. I've also yet to Benefit from the locker. Always had to engage 4wd, locker just throws the truck sideways.
Once I knew I was stuck, I called my buddy to come help. He showed up with his Lexus LX450. Locked+Locked+Locked he was able to drive anywhere he wanted in that field. We put a strap on my SD and I was out in 2 seconds. I am 100% positive that if I even had a rear locker, that would have been enough for me to get myself out, or, more to the point, never get stuck in the first place.
Lockers are not for snow or ice where all four of your tires have similarly bad traction. They are for mud or offroad situations where one or two of your tires have no traction, but one or two of your OTHER tires have plenty of traction.
I haven't gotten to use the ELD on my '16 yet, but I am very happy it is there. That's one of the high points of my new truck compared to my old one.
Anyway, YMMV. I wouldn't write off that locker that quick though.
-J
I unplugged the connection at the diff and it disengaged. It sounds like you tried to unplug it, but did you just disconnect the electrical plug out of it's socket on the axle housing? It sounds like you did more when you say the sensor started coming out....
The dash switch really is plastic junk, I had to replace mine and I looked at the guts of the old one and it seemed pretty light duty inside....








