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Is it possible for an engine to be installed crooked? -either as in a side to side roll, or as a pivot from the firewall forward?
I placed a new 390 in my 1970 4x4 f250 and the exhaust does not quite match up to the exhaust manifold on the driver's side as it once did. Also, the flat metal bar that holds the spring from the clutch fork, rubs the exhaust more than I THINK it did before.
whatever I may have done wrong, it is barely if at all noticeable otherwise.
Yes. The engine perches are slotted and lesser mortals will ignore that detail. Crawl under and look up at the engine mount nuts... it should be centered with equal ends of the slot visible.
The FE in my 4wd 73 was canted over and the new left long tube header collector was contacting the front driveshaft. Then I noticed the clutch bar wasn't horizontal... just like you are experiencing.
Loosen the motor mount nuts and reset the engine by jacking up the lower side to rotate the block.... prolly take a few tries to get the higher mount to slip.
Thanks! I'm going to give that a look. I was surprised something could be wrong since the engine, bell housing, and gearbox are all connected square, and the gearbox connects to a cross-member that is parallel with the length of the truck. It makes it seem difficult for there to be wiggle room. Is this your experience?
Thanks! I'm going to give that a look. I was surprised something could be wrong since the engine, bell housing, and gearbox are all connected square, and the gearbox connects to a cross-member that is parallel with the length of the truck. It makes it seem difficult for there to be wiggle room. Is this your experience?
The engine and trans are linear ("square") relative to each other. However, as an assembly it can be rotated or not level, side to side, with the frame.
A half inch rotation five inches from the engine's longitudinal axis results in more angular distance the further away from that axis... and the trans output shaft relative to the transmission mount is quite small.
Yea as these did not come with V8 motors but where all I-6 Cyls.
I had use like a 1/8" steel shimmed between the motor mount an the frame that gave me enough room to sit level.
I even tried switching to different frame preaches from a truck that had a V8 in it that did not change anything. The truck, I got the other pair of frame mounts from the engine had been removed so could not tell if the engine sat level or not.
But since then, I've lifted the engine an use a dremel like hand tool to cut out enough metal in the bottom of the frame slot hole so the engine would sit level.
I've looked at a few other bump 4wd trucks at PnP and they all had one broken rubber motor mount like mind had when , I last switched engine like back in 06.
linear error = Tan(angular error) x distance ... this would explain the engine/gearbox pivoting from where the gearbox mounts causing the engine to angle closer to one side of the truck or the other, or angle towards the pavement or the hood.
But, the "amount of lateral engine rotation" would be constant from the front of the engine to where the gearbox mounts to the frame cross-member.
I think I need to examine the (new) motor mounts and make sure the slot spacing is equal on both sides - then go about balancing the rotation if any by loosening the motor mounts and gearbox/cross-member bolt, and jacking one side or the other.
Yes but the angle doesn't change.... the lateral rotation at the trans mount is hardly noticeable where as the rotation at the clutch bracket and motor mount is more evident... and even moreso at the valve covers because it is further away from the longitudinal axis.
Think of wheel vs tire rotation... a 180-degree rotation is the same...but now let's apply 2 x pi x r.
The tire's tread surface is at a radius more than the wheel' s radius.
I loosened the gearbox bolt and the motor mount nuts. Used a cherry picker to lift the low side (driver's side). Worked like a charm. The clutch bar is nice and square and so is the problem driver side exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold connection.
I loosened the gearbox bolt and the motor mount nuts. Used a cherry picker to lift the low side (driver's side). Worked like a charm. The clutch bar is nice and square and so is the problem driver side exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold connection.
Awesome. Glad to hear everything got squared up. Good job.
Linkage: my new 390 has an Edelbrock Al intake, and Edelbrock 1406 carb. Any thoughts on the linkage for that situation?
Radiator Spring: it doesn't. Actually, I asked around about those and was told they existed not to prevent cavitation, but to create the curve in the hose. ???
Thermostat hole: never heard of that, I'll take it out and figure that one out.
Clutch Adjustment: as I understand it, the controlling factor of the adjustment is the amount of slop in the pedal before the clutch fork and TO bearing make contact with the release levers. ???
