If head bolts stretched to cause problems wouldn't they still be stretched no matter under a load or not? I made a 200 mile run this past weekend unloaded pushed it harder than normal going up hill and when the strectch was clear pushed higher speeds and never saw temp rise above 200.

 

how was the egr deleated


I agree stretched is stretched but maybe the Hg holds to a certain point hard to say


I assume the Pressure in the cooling system cause the radiator leak

 

Bulletproof diesels egr delete. Not sure on leak it was at top where plastic met the aluminum

 

I don't think coolant temps of 225 alone should be causing puking. That's not exactly "overheating".

 

As a structural engineer this is one of the few things I'm qualified to answer. I went into great depths on this answer a couple year's back on this forum. I'll try and not geek out this time.

The head bolts clamp the heads down. IH chose to stretch the bolts to yield (this the torque to yield, TTY, designating). This leaves very little reserve in the bolts to continue holding as compression builds in the cylinders. If you don't tension the bolts past yield, the bolts don't permanently stretch. Once the bolts go past yield, they permanently lengthen. We are talking microns here, not fractions of inches.

Once the bolts are microns longer, they are still clamping the head down, just not as tightly. Thus, they can run normal under light load, but as compression builds in the cylinders from heavy loading, the clamping force is offset just enough to allow some combustion gas blowby past the head gasket and into the coolant system.

As heat rises, metals (head bolts) become softer. This exacerbates the stretching. Under the constant load induced by towing, three engine Will inherently run hotter. 10 to 15 degrees hotter when towing is normal.

So both temperature and compression are higher when towing. I know there are some that will argue that the compression is the same, but in a dynamic load situation, it's not because the cylinders are much harder to push down from the combustion while towing.

I hope that's clear.

 

Well that could be a factor. Been seeing something about that causing overheating.

One more questing for you, How full are you filling the degas bottle to?
If you over the new full point it can vent on you when heated.
If it's an old bottle without the new mark on the tank then just below
the low line is about where you want to be.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

What kind of psi should i see unloaded

 

This video shows what's needed.

 

Unloaded took a while had to put alot of boost to get it to climp but it actually got up to 18-20psi. Guess ill be doin heads

 

I'd run a second gauge first just to see. I noticed the gauge said made in China. That's just what I would do. On a second note, my sons truck dose have head studs but still gets to 230 ect and 247 eot. All BPD stuff. Remote oil cooler also. He dose not pluck coolant. I think we have his figured out but won't know till end of September when he towing his 16K trailer home.

 

Sorry to hear that,but it looked that way all along. Proper coolant level, new cap, egr delete and still gets to 18 psi without overheating .... 99% chance it's a head job

 

Gauge says 16 psi to me.

 

If the psi stays below 10 psi is it safe to drive

 

You can drive it at 16lbs, just ck the water level,make sure you can see some in the bottom of the coolant tank,dont overfill because it will puke it out to the level it wants anyway, new cap every mnth, anti freeze to keep boiling down, dont build over 20 boost when towing.

 

Down shifting while going up hill helps cooling too. The engine works LESS believe it or not. It also helps coolant circulation. It kills the fuel economy thou.