Ok Ive read several threads on AC conversion/ maintenance and so forth. I live in New Mexico and it can get well over 100 in the summer, so AC is looking like a must. When I first bought the truck (75 F150, 390ci) the AC made all kinds of noise when it was turned on, but it was fixed by tensioning the belt a bit, sounds fine now. Pretty sure the compressor works (york, i think), but it doesnt blow cold air (out of R12 i imagine). would like to recharge with r12 but will settle for a conversion to r134a

I just cant decide what to do. Could use some advice here.

1. Cant seem to find R12 in my area, is it still easily available, (how, where)?

2. Ive heard the r134a conversions dont work as well, but its a single cab and anythings better than nothing. whats involved? does the entire system need flushed, new oil etc. (and is it a PITA)? or has anyone had luck with the "10 minute" version

budget is a little tight so advice is much appreciated.

 

what I would recommend, (It worked well for me) is just to retrofit with r134a, you dont have to change the hoses, but it is recommended because the old style hoses are not innershield and are prone to leak with the R134, I would also change the drier and maybe even the expansion valve, they are cheap and worth your time if you want it to last, you can have the hoses rebuilt ( they just cut off the old rubber and put on new and reuse the old fittings) for a fair price, I did it all for under 200 dollars freon and all

 

There is also the Freeze-12 system which is an R12 replacement.

You can find R12 on eBay fromt time to time, but it can be pricey.

To do the R134a conversion, you have to replace the dryer, good idea to replace the condensor and evaporator since they will be gooey from the old R12 oil. The R134s PAG oil is not compatible in any way with the old stuff.

Replace those parts, clean the compressor as good as you can and flush some PAG oil thru it, then vacuum the system for at least an hour.

Josh

 

Alright. Is there a way to clean the old condenser? (new one ~$140) maybe just run some acetone through it to dissolve the old mineral oil deposits?

Is the compressor a pain to clean? Any tips here?

Im never dived into AC before so this is new to me... but its gettin toasty outside so its gotta be done.

 

There is a/c flush you can use and it does work pretty well, the compressor and the condensor and the evaporator

 

X2 on the A/C flush.................

 

Ford sold 1 lb cans of R-12 freon, a few dealers still have some. The problem is, you will need the A/C freon installation tool (adapter and hose) to install it.

There are two different adapters because there were two different can tops, one is rounded, one has an inverted nipple on it.

As I recall, the last MSRP was around 10 bucks a can. Dunno what the following dealers want for it, there's no prices listed on Ford's parts locator system any longer. Y'all will have to call 'em and ask.

D4AZ-19B519-A (replaced B9LF-19B519-A) .. R-12 Freon-I lb. can / Obsolete

BOB LOWTH FORD in Bemidji MN has 15 = 218-444-6145.

WILSON MOTORS in Snyder TX has 48 = 325-573-1907.

BURTIS MOTOR CO. in Garden City KS has 65 = 620-275-6171.

FRED HARLAN MOTOR CO. in Okmulgee OK has 72 = 918-756-2075.

A/C shops can evacuate the entire system, but all the hoses have to be connected, and other parts have to be in place.

If the hoses are not connected and the fittings were not taped over, and/or parts are missing or disconnected and this has been the case for awhile, you can kiss the compressor and some other parts good-bye.

Once outside air (the more humid the air, the faster this occurs), gets into the system, it has to be evacuated within a coupla weeks, otherwise...