Transmission removal
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Transmission removal
Could someone give me step by step instructions on how to remove a t-19 transmission I'm taking my truck to have another transmission put in but I have to take the new transmission out of a truck that is going to the scrap yard. Since the other truck is going to the scrap yard I can cut anything that could make it easier to get out.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Probably nobody is going to spend the time writing up step-by-step, hold-your-hand-type of instructions like that when they already exist in Haynes & Chilton's manuals - and they've even got pictures!
People will probably try and help if you have specific questions about a specific problem you're having or are wondering about, so at least go to a parts store and read that stuff in one of the books, T-19 removal is pretty easy.
People will probably try and help if you have specific questions about a specific problem you're having or are wondering about, so at least go to a parts store and read that stuff in one of the books, T-19 removal is pretty easy.
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No step by step that I know of, but here a few things to consider:
1) Logistics - You will need a transmission jack (an adapter on a floor jack is fine) for removal. Strap the transmission to the jack for safety. Once you get the transmission down, you've still got to get it out from under the vehicle. While still on the jack, it will be too tall to roll out from under the frame as a unit. You'll either need to raise the frame way up (need another jack) or CAREFULLY tip the transmission and jack onto its side, separate them, and wrestle the transmission out.
2) When you remove the shift tower, watch out for the little pin that indexes the lever. Don't let it fall inside the transmission.
3) On the crossmember, the diagonal braces that connect to the upper frame rails are a booger. Access to the upper bolts is a pain. Expect to find them rusted, too. If the truck is going to the scrapyard and you're sure the parts won't be needed, I'd be tempted to cut them if they don't unbolt easily.
1) Logistics - You will need a transmission jack (an adapter on a floor jack is fine) for removal. Strap the transmission to the jack for safety. Once you get the transmission down, you've still got to get it out from under the vehicle. While still on the jack, it will be too tall to roll out from under the frame as a unit. You'll either need to raise the frame way up (need another jack) or CAREFULLY tip the transmission and jack onto its side, separate them, and wrestle the transmission out.
2) When you remove the shift tower, watch out for the little pin that indexes the lever. Don't let it fall inside the transmission.
3) On the crossmember, the diagonal braces that connect to the upper frame rails are a booger. Access to the upper bolts is a pain. Expect to find them rusted, too. If the truck is going to the scrapyard and you're sure the parts won't be needed, I'd be tempted to cut them if they don't unbolt easily.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Karl, thank you, those are great tips that you prolly won't find in a book. But I disagree on the need for a transmission jack for removal. 
Those jacks are needed for re installation in order to get that shaft aligned exactly perfectly with that hole (no, let's not go there, stop your dirty mind
). I've always used just a floor jack for removal as it doesn't need to be precise, it's more of a he-man effort and it helps if you lift weights as a hobby cuz those things aren't insubstantial in weight (and they usually fall off the floor jack and onto the floor, this job will suck if you're doing it in the JY).
Yeah, that little pin that indexes the shifter lever, I have one or two spares around someplace.
That crossmember thing can be a big pain to deal with, something between 19-22 mm wrenches & sockets if you want to remove the bolts as they were installed.
Those jacks are needed for re installation in order to get that shaft aligned exactly perfectly with that hole (no, let's not go there, stop your dirty mind
). I've always used just a floor jack for removal as it doesn't need to be precise, it's more of a he-man effort and it helps if you lift weights as a hobby cuz those things aren't insubstantial in weight (and they usually fall off the floor jack and onto the floor, this job will suck if you're doing it in the JY).Yeah, that little pin that indexes the shifter lever, I have one or two spares around someplace.
That crossmember thing can be a big pain to deal with, something between 19-22 mm wrenches & sockets if you want to remove the bolts as they were installed.
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
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Here's how I did it:
- Is it connected to the transmission? Remove it!
- Last bolts to remove connect the transmission to the bell housing and just slide it out.
And, yes, I use a transmission jack to get it off too because I don't want to dent the pan or crack the case when it hits the concrete/asphalt ground.
- Is it connected to the transmission? Remove it!
- Last bolts to remove connect the transmission to the bell housing and just slide it out.
And, yes, I use a transmission jack to get it off too because I don't want to dent the pan or crack the case when it hits the concrete/asphalt ground.
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Gee, if only there was some low-buck tool that could keep the transmission from falling off the jack during removal...
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
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I may just buy the whole truck I should be able to get it for 250-300 and it couldn't hurt having it sitting around for a parts truck
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Well doesn't look like I'll be pulling it out the guy said he would have to have 400 bucks for the transmission, I said I wouldn't give him that much so he's taking the whole truck for scrap metal. With scrap metal prices here he'll get $300 for it all
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I just took one the other day, didn't get much. We are only getting 4 cents per 100 lbs here.
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