Reaching the frame with jack
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 364
Likes: 22
From: Eagar, az
Reaching the frame with jack
Howdy. So in the process of making my truck drive, track, and handle better I have decided the rear leafs need replacing. Trick sits around an inch or two lower in back so also just want to level it out. 1973 f100 2wd with 4 inch sus lift, and 3 body. The question I have is how the hell to reach frame so I can pick er up and change springs? Frame sits 2 1/2 feet off ground, and haven't seen (in my know nothing beginner experience) a Jack that reaches more than 18 inches ot so, other that those bumper offroad ones. Is it safe, or even doable to just stack some wood blocks on the Jack to reach? Even then I guess I will have to spend more cash on higher stands. Any tips/tricks? Thanx!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 992
Likes: 114
From: Dallas, OR
Personally, for lifting the rear, I just put the jack under the center of the differential housing and lift from there. Just make sure your jack can handle that much weight before you do. Not sure if that is the "correct" way, but it works and does not seem to cause any damage. I would not use wood blocks with a floor jack style as they have to roll forward as the lift arm arcs backwards as it lifts. You would probably be OK with wood blocks under a bottle jack as long as you don't stack them too high and make sure they are good and stable before you start. I've done that before too, but then again, I have done a lot of sketchy things in my life and somehow lived to tell about it. YYMV.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,266
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
You need to be very careful jacking and frame blocking a truck to remove the rear leaf springs. Using proper jack stands that are tall enough it the best route. Harbor Fright has some tall ones, ck them.
Or like something from here. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...iAAEgLdv_D_BwE
But for a probably one time use, that lots of $ to spend. Might call around any local tool rental places to see if they have any, and a good 2 or 3 ton roller floor jack for the rear axle. You can use railroad ties cut into 3' pieces and or 6x6 wood post pieces stacked up. Holler center cement blocks NOT a smart idea. Some steel tall 3 out leg jack stands is the best way to do it.
You are going to be tugging, pulling, pushing to get those leaf springs/bolts out and the truck needs to be secure. Start spraying your u bolts now, they are fine threads and never do come off easy. Might look into ordering new ones. Cutting them will make for a faster easier job overall.
I hate to make other suggestions that are not smart ones as far as supporting the truck. If you remove the rims/tires that will give you more suspension drop room.
Or like something from here. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...iAAEgLdv_D_BwE
But for a probably one time use, that lots of $ to spend. Might call around any local tool rental places to see if they have any, and a good 2 or 3 ton roller floor jack for the rear axle. You can use railroad ties cut into 3' pieces and or 6x6 wood post pieces stacked up. Holler center cement blocks NOT a smart idea. Some steel tall 3 out leg jack stands is the best way to do it.
You are going to be tugging, pulling, pushing to get those leaf springs/bolts out and the truck needs to be secure. Start spraying your u bolts now, they are fine threads and never do come off easy. Might look into ordering new ones. Cutting them will make for a faster easier job overall.
I hate to make other suggestions that are not smart ones as far as supporting the truck. If you remove the rims/tires that will give you more suspension drop room.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 364
Likes: 22
From: Eagar, az
Yeah I am no stranger to sketchy stuff, the problem is I have to lift the frame to let the wheels hang loose to drop out the leafs. I could spend 400 bucks on a fancy Jack that will work, but my $2000 budget for this truck over the summer is mostly spoken for already, and I really don't want to. I would rather just redneck it and put that cash into the motor
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 364
Likes: 22
From: Eagar, az
Yeah. Definitely gonna need a few stands that are made for it. As you say, pulling, yanking, and all that good stuff is gonna be a little sketchy for even me considering all I have is dirt, and grass on the floor. Not even flat dirt at that. Railroad tie is a good idea though . I didn't even think of that. Might have to travel to find a few though, as I live In a 1 traffic light town in the middle-o-nowhere Arizona
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 364
Likes: 22
From: Eagar, az
lmfao....there it is..couldn't tell ya why that didn't even cross my damn mind... THANKS!
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 605
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From: NJ
I would just do one side at a time. Lift the say, left side, high enough to get the wheel back on with the new spring. Change everything on that side with the other 3 wheels on the ground. When you are done replacing everything, put the wheel back on, drop the truck, then repeat the process on the right side. I would invest in some taller jack stands to do this, but at least you have 3 wheels on the ground at all times instead of just the front 2. Would be a little more stable, this is how I did my brakes.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,966
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From: Angier, NC
You could also use a engine hoist to lift the truck and then support the frame as stated above.
Once the frame is supported you can use the floor jack to raise / lower the axle as needed.
Dave ----
Once the frame is supported you can use the floor jack to raise / lower the axle as needed.
Dave ----
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 139
From: tucson
This may sound like it should be common sense, But make sure you disconnect The parking brake cables so as the axle drops, it doesn't stretch them and cause damage. I just replaced the front shackle bushings on my rear leafs and am now replacing the rear cables on my '66 .
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,219
Likes: 325
From: Central Florida
Here's how I did it. My jack stands were not tall enough so I bought eight solid concrete blocks for a buck a piece. I then used four on each side to build a platform for the jack stands, two on the first story and two on the second in the opposite direction. After jacking the rear up by the differential, I placed the jack stands ahead of the springs and let the weight of the rear settle. This allowed me to get the back of the truck high enough to roll everything out from under the truck as one unit, wheels and all. I had also removed the bumper.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
Here's how I did it. My jack stands were not tall enough so I bought eight solid concrete blocks for a buck a piece. I then used four on each side to build a platform for the jack stands, two on the first story and two on the second in the opposite direction. After jacking the rear up by the differential, I placed the jack stands ahead of the springs and let the weight of the rear settle. This allowed me to get the back of the truck high enough to roll everything out from under the truck as one unit, wheels and all. I had also removed the bumper.
I've never done anything with leaf springs, but I really like the ideas of doing the job with three wheels on the ground, and without even removing any wheels/tires.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,035
Likes: 894
From: East Central Ia
I bought 4 heavy jack stands from the S on tool man at the shop. Dang that guy knew how to sell tools. Point is they don't wear out and you can use them forever, well at least as long as you can pick them up. Had a truck on all four with all wheels off ground and it was rock solid.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 6
For easy jacking using the frame, I recommend this style. My friend had these and we used them to install a 3" lift on my Jeep. They worked great.
