Motor mounts
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Motor mounts
I wanted to ask opinions for motor mount material, not sure what's offered. Some sort of rubber, a poly type, factory? I'd rather not go solid mount, I have them in another vehicle and it's not fun. I still have the original mounts on a mild 460, I know it's supposed to shake a little, but on the exhaust flange, it's nearly a 1.5" shake at idle, when transferred at the headers, it's nearly dancing 3". I honestly don't know what materials are being used and how they hold up, but I believe mine are on the way out and am looking to replace them. Thanks!
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I would look into why the motor shakes so much. Even if it has a BIG cam it should not shake that much.
Some makes & models you don't have choice on what you can get. It could be you don't have a choice but some have stock rubber, Poly & solid.
As you get more "stiff" you will feel it thru out the car/truck as you know. Also if you only do the motor and not trany mount you can break things like trany housings.
If your mount are old and don't want to feel in inside I would go with stock mounts motor & trany.
BTW the cam in my drag car with large street cam uses stock mounts and does not shake.
Dave ----
Some makes & models you don't have choice on what you can get. It could be you don't have a choice but some have stock rubber, Poly & solid.
As you get more "stiff" you will feel it thru out the car/truck as you know. Also if you only do the motor and not trany mount you can break things like trany housings.
If your mount are old and don't want to feel in inside I would go with stock mounts motor & trany.
BTW the cam in my drag car with large street cam uses stock mounts and does not shake.
Dave ----
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Thanks for the replies, i agree changing out both motor and transmission mounts, I haven't seen any vendors advertise if they are poly or different material, so I'm afraid it's going to be a "get what you get." On the shake, I do keep a lower idle, around 900rpm, and it was built for a street car, guy decided to go bigger and I got it cheap. when it was engine dynoed, it had the initial twist as it reved but was fairly smooth. I agree something is out of whack, I just thought it was 30yr old hardware on newer engine.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Thanks for the replies, i agree changing out both motor and transmission mounts, I haven't seen any vendors advertise if they are poly or different material, so I'm afraid it's going to be a "get what you get." On the shake, I do keep a lower idle, around 900rpm, and it was built for a street car, guy decided to go bigger and I got it cheap. when it was engine dynoed, it had the initial twist as it reved but was fairly smooth. I agree something is out of whack, I just thought it was 30yr old hardware on newer engine.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Where did the "new" engine come from? Did you verify what the block casting number is...before it was installed?
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Can't swear to it, as it's been over 5 years, but I believe it was a 78 Lincoln continental block. I can get casting numbers after work, if you think the mounting location may be different. I was able to unbolt the mounts from old 460 and bolt them on same way with new 460.
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Understandable, I know for a fact it had the same external pendulum balancer the original truck engine had. If it helps to know at 1500rpm and up to 4K, I don't take it above that, it's pretty smooth, I've been told the cam specs has a large duration, and the engine was meant for more compression but like I said the owner dumped it complete for the price he had in the head work.
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I am no expert by any means and I do appreciate the advice. I remember the crank snout being long and asking what goes behind the dampener and pulley and that's when I found it was externally balanced, are there different weights for different models?
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