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Thank you sir, let's assume I know nothing, would a miss balanced engine last this long? I honestly chalked it up to worn out motor mounts and a decent cam. It seems to idle smoother during driving, when I get on the fast pedal and let off, I can watch the 4wd and shifter snapping.
T19 manual, has shook all along, best way to describe it is like a cam lope, almost like too low an idle speed sounding like that's why I always thought mounts, no real miss, smooths out if I raise idle rpm.
But you said something about a "low" idle speed of 900 RPM, I consider that pretty fast for a stick shift... unless there's a cam... will the cam allow it to get down to 500 or so for testing purposes?
If I can figure out a way, and weather permits, I'd like to post a video so everyone can see what kind of shake it has. now I'm a bit concerned, perhaps i don't have experience, but are they not supposed to shake at all? I know it's no diesel, but I thought some would be expected?
... if this engine was from a car it is 28 Oz. out of balance with a truck flywheel.
THAT will cause a lot of shaking.
Look on the block behind the starter for a casting number.
If it is not D9TE you've found the problem.
You should also check the crank spacer behind the harmonic damper.
If it is just a round sleeve that the front main seal rides on, it's not right for a manual.
ETA: unless someone put the wrong spacer on too...
If the crank is internal balance, then you need to remove that flywheel and bring it to the machine shop or order a zero balance flywheel and spacer from some other source.
The shaking will destroy the main bearings if you don't.
I replaced my motor mounts when I noticed excessive motor movement when dropping it into reverse. The new ones were hard rubber.
My mostly stock 460 (automatic) idles about 850 in park and 650 in gear and I figure the tune is about right when the radio and CD antennas don't shake when the motor is running.
Over the years I'd say most of my roughness at idle has been ignition related, bad wires in particular, followed closely by vacuum leaks.
Vacuum leaks will tend to smooth out at higher RPM as the volume of air leaking into the intake becomes a much smaller percentage relative to all the air and fuel entering through the carb.
If you have an EGR, and its hanging open, that's a big vacuum leak that will certainly cause the shakes at idle.
I will double check the stamping number on the block, as well as the number on the dampener. the spacer is the pendulum style, not a straight sleeve, it has a counterweight on it. I do not have egr, and no known vacuum leaks. Thanks everyone so far!
The block shows a D1ve 6015 a2b casting number, the spacer, like I stated has the counterweight, and the balancer has a d00e-b1 sd f8 number on it, hope this helps settle the balancing issue!
The block shows a D1ve 6015 a2b casting number, the spacer, like I stated has the counterweight, and the balancer has a d00e-b1 sd f8 number on it, hope this helps settle the balancing issue!
The harmonic dampers are the same, internal or external.
You have added external balance components to an internally balanced engine.
Find a spacer sleeve for the front and have the flywheel zero balanced.
The vibration should be gone.
Ideally you would have the entire rotating assembly balanced, but it's a little late for that.
While it is possible that the PO put an external balance crank in an internal balance block it is not likely that that happened.
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