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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #16  
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6t6merc
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You said you need a "new" AC system, which suggests you already have one that needs help. I'd be inclined to fix what's there, especially after seeing those aftermarket kit prices.
Eric
 
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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 09:01 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 6t6merc
You said you need a "new" AC system, which suggests you already have one that needs help. I'd be inclined to fix what's there, especially after seeing those aftermarket kit prices.
Eric
That is correct, the truck came with factory air, but has worked in many years and was guessing it would be cheaper to buy a new & modern system rather than fixing what it has.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 10:01 PM
  #18  
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When AC system are not use like minim 15 minutes a month the seals can dry out & shrink letting the Freon then escape, and the compressor ceramic seal they used then would leak also.

With the R-12 systems oil flowed with the Freon that's why the system needed to be run once a month keeping the moisture sucked up at the drier and seals oiled

The old systems that got install back then 99% of the hoses use clamps and over time needed tightening when the hoses compressed under the clamps.

So this was why they all needed to be recharged every few yrs.

I had to charge my in-laws 70 ranger every few yrs then they stopped using the truck like before as it was for vacations only. The AC started to keep tripping a fuse.

Then while out on the road he cut the belt off as the clutch bearing was bad and making a lot of noise.

Then he bent the clutch pulley groove using the wrong puller. Then it never got fixed after that.

Most likely yours leaked just all the Freon out from not using, then r12 pulled off the market.

New hoses and a new compressor built for the r134a an a new drier could possibly would get yours working.

So may be just have yours looked at..

Orich .
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 06:53 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by soulnamja
That is correct, the truck came with factory air, but has worked in many years and was guessing it would be cheaper to buy a new & modern system rather than fixing what it has.
OH, that's different than my situation with a truck that did not come with factory AC.

Yes, fixing the one that's there would still be better IMO than putting in an all new aftermarket. It may need a compressor and seals, but still better to go that way.

Now, you might look to buying the compressor and other bits and doing as much work as you can to save costs, then pay an AC shop to charge it and generally give it a good going over.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 07:29 AM
  #20  
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People have mentioned that factory air makes a difference. What about the dealer installed versions? My 72 F100 has the dealer installed AC, but it has not been used in forever.

Are those worth fixing versus aftermarket? The engine shop is just finishing my truck this week, and I had them not try to get the AC working as it has not been used in over a decade or more.

I didn't want to spend the money repairing something that probably would not work or would leak anyway.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 08:36 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jbbott
People have mentioned that factory air makes a difference. What about the dealer installed versions? My 72 F100 has the dealer installed AC, but it has not been used in forever.

Are those worth fixing versus aftermarket? The engine shop is just finishing my truck this week, and I had them not try to get the AC working as it has not been used in over a decade or more.

I didn't want to spend the money repairing something that probably would not work or would leak anyway.
This is my thinking exactly. Don't want t try to fix something that isn't going to work.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 10:14 AM
  #22  
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If care is taken when removing the old ford under dash unit their is still a demand for one that could bring in some cash to help pay for your aftermarket AC system.
As long as it's all in tack an not any broken plastic missing pieces

The aftermarket dash units is a much nicer design an looking better then the old ford units that take up most of the whole passenger side.

Then if you ever have to deal with the heater core or it's hoses if they start leaking like my in laws started doing that was a real Bxtch to drop the hole unit to get to those heater hoses.

And those heater hoses are special curve molded going into the heater box so we got two 5/8" 90* elbows and spliced those at the exiting firewall.

But the passenger floor started rusting out. He had the OEM rubber full mat and the lead was not noticed for a long time the was a very slow leak.

This was the down side of those ford dash units tho.

Orich
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 10:30 AM
  #23  
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1968/72 F100/350: THREE different types of Ford A/C .. All are "hang-on" units...as the bezels bolt to the bottom of the dash.

Upper pic: Factory installed integral A/C is combined with the heater. The A/C controls are in the same panel as the heater controls.

Center pic: Deluxe dealer installed A/C bezel.

Lower pic: Economy dealer installed A/C bezel.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 11:21 AM
  #24  
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The 19837 hose connection in the diagram of factory AC air dash unit #19867 were just a whole molded hose coming from the heater core all the way out the fire wall the Tee in the carb base carb plate hoses that other butted up to the coolant shut off.

Bill In your diagram it looks like some other type connections quick connect snap on locks.

Orich
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 12:21 PM
  #25  
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The old system can be made as good as new by a skilled AC guy, but it will definitely need a bigger condenser to perform well with the modern refrigerant. Your truck has lots of room for a condenser out of a later model truck.
Eric
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 03:52 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by orich
The 19837 hose connection in the diagram of factory AC air dash unit #19867 were just a whole molded hose coming from the heater core (heater core is 18476 in pic) all the way out the fire wall the Tee in the carb base carb plate hoses that other butted up to the coolant shut off.

Bill In your diagram it looks like some other type connections quick connect snap on locks.
C7OZ-19837-A .. Liquid Line-Evaporator Core (19860 in pic) to Dryer (not shown in pic) - Use with factory installed integral A/C / Obsolete

Replaced by "service details" - 94" of 5/16" A/C hose + 3 fittings:

A33 (D2AZ-19D695-D = female O ring-straight); B33 (D2AZ-19D695-H = female flare-45 degree elbow); SG3 (D2AZ-19D695-BK = splicer with sight glass).
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by soulnamja
This is my thinking exactly. Don't want t try to fix something that isn't going to work.
Where are you located? If you have factory AC and you rip that system out and don't put in new heater box you no longer have heat or ventilation either. If you live in southern Florida or San Diego, no biggie. If you live in International Falls, Minnesota then you have a real problem! There is place in your profile to add your location. Easy to do.
If you do fix up that factory AC system, which is probably going to be your cheapest option, have the heater core re-cored by a good radiator shop. They will take the top and bottom tanks off your existing heater core and put them on a brand new core. Best to have it done while you everything out in the open, because getting back in there if the heater core goes out later will be a real PIA. And those heater cores are different than heat only heater box cores, and to my knowledge the are no longer manufactured.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 06:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by flyboy2610
Where are you located? If you have factory AC and you rip that system out and don't put in new heater box you no longer have heat or ventilation either. If you live in southern Florida or San Diego, no biggie. If you live in International Falls, Minnesota then you have a real problem! There is place in your profile to add your location. Easy to do.
If you do fix up that factory AC system, which is probably going to be your cheapest option, have the heater core re-cored by a good radiator shop. They will take the top and bottom tanks off your existing heater core and put them on a brand new core. Best to have it done while you everything out in the open, because getting back in there if the heater core goes out later will be a real PIA. And those heater cores are different than heat only heater box cores, and to my knowledge the are no longer manufactured.
OP's "About Me" profile: AZ

My sister lives in Scottsdale, I was talking to her last week, she said it was 116!
 
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