Hello everyone. Been big on reading this forum but not on posting so first let me thank everyone who puts their sincere effort into trying to help the fellow 7.3 powerstroke in need. I removed these injectors thinking to replace the o rings to solve the tough start and billowing white oil smoke problem that has developed recently. To my surprise the glow plugs all check out at .04 to .06 ohms so they aren't the cause of the hard start. Could it be the injectors that is also responsible for the hard start. The o rings only show bad on the 3,5, and 4 cylinders as shown. Could the damage on these o rings be responsible for the incredible amount of white oil smoke? Or should I bite the bullet and buy new injectors. Oddly enough there is no smoke on start up but within the first 1/2 mile of driving especially leaving a stop light, it blows a white cloud that is quite impressive in a bad way. Thanks

 

How many miles are on the injectors?

Have you had a black fuel filter recently?

Personally, I would replace the o-rings with OEM "Allaint" only and ensure that the injectors are properly torqued upon install and see if that cures the problem.

Alliant Injector O-rings - Ford 7.3L Powerstroke (94-03)

About $60 as opposed to $1650.

NEW STOCK INJECTORS

All of your symptoms can be caused by loose injectors and/or bad o-rings. As ICP builds during cranking and acceleration, the injector o-rings can become overwhelmed and oil can enter the fuel via the middle o-ring or the ICP bleeds off back to the head via the top o-ring causing low atomization. Both can happen simultaneously.

 

There's no way to tell if injectors are good or bad by looking at them.

If it were me, I'd replace the o-rings with Motorcraft OEM ones and bolt everything back up. It's going to take a nice 20-30 mile drive to clear everything up. If after a few days you notice the same problems, then you'll have narrowed it down.

 

Thanks for the replies. There is 230,000 on these injectors. I am the original owner and have always did the maintainence including the baldwin fuel filters at or before the interval. I posted the pics to show the wear on the o rings and ask if you guys think that those rings could be responsible for the current oil smoke. I cant remember how black the fuel filter was when I did it 1000 miles ago but the existing filter does't seem too black. I have the alliant o rings from riff raff but figured I'd put it out there to see what you think.

 

Orings can be goofy to tell if their junk unless you have them in your hands and are inspecting them closely. I believe these guys are leading you down the right path. Change the Orings and put them back in.
You do have options also. You can send them out and have them tested for piece of mind instead of playing the waiting game wondering if one is junk or not. I'm sure these guys can steer you in the right direction for that.

 

Any crankcase blow-by at the oil filler tube?

 

No blow by at the oil fill tube. Didn't check for that specifically but I see no evidence of new oil collecting at or near the oil fill. I think the tack I'll take is as you guys suggest, replace the o rings and put the injectors back in. If it doesn't solve the problem at least i have new o rings, have eliminated a suspect and I haven't blown $1200 on injectors I don't need.

 

While you have the valve covers off and the tops of the injectors exposed put a straight edge along the top of the injectors on one bank to see if any are a little high. I think the reason might be to expose a poorly seated injector or a raised cup, maybe? Others can chime in here who know more than me.


(There used to be this (famous/infamous) guy on this forum who told me to do that. He was kinda gruff but very helpful...)

 

I just replaced my injector orings last weekend at 237xxx miles. I was having long crank before it would fire, Smoky starts black fuel filter and an all around roughness. And my injectors looked about like yours. But since replacing the orings it fires up quicker, runs much better and so much quieter. I'm thinking oil or fuel might've been leaking in to a cylinder or two at shut down, it cranks over twice as fast as it did before.

 

I'm hoping for that outcome schlepprock250 thanks for the encouragement. One question about the copper washer for you all. I have the alliant rings and the new copper washer has an extrusion stamped into it meaning a slightly raised area around the center of the washer. The instructions from riff raff have a cross section of this washer indicating the orientation but its blurry. My guess is this ridge faces down to help the sealing at the head. Any ideas. thanks

 

Hey. Just wanted to update this post. Got the truck put back together recently and I have to say it is a lot of work that needs to be paid attention to. Great advice from FatDiesel about using a hand held syringe style vac to soak up the oil and fuel from each cylinder as you go and from mech2161 with the advice about pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking until oil is seen coming out of the two oil plugs under the valve cover. When I got the truck running it only took a mile or so to run smooth and I credit priming for that. I answered my own question on the orientation of the copper washer when I found the cross section of the fuel injector in my shop manual. This is the same one Riff Raff copies but mine was clear enough to prove what I thought about how the copper washer is placed. I did the oil cooler also and that is a dirty job but not to bad. The u tube video that shows this job done by leaving the front housing in place just creates trouble. I dare you to put the cooler back into that housing loaded with assembly lube, and keep it surgically clean as you snake it under the exhaust manifold and over the cross member. Just take the whole thing out as the 2 bolts holding the front housing are relatively easy if you take off the serp belt and coolant hose. Turns out I think my turbo was the culprit all along as I notice a lot of play in the shaft and now I see oil out the tail pipe as well. Truck is running great now even if the o rings weren't in dire shape. Oh well it can't be a bad thing to do o rings and glow plugs on a 230,000 mile diesel can it. Thanks to all on this forum. Love it

 

This is the first time I saw the thread, and that #8 had a compromised copper washer or loose injector bolt - that's a sign of combustion gasses reaching the cup. It looks like you caught it early, and I bet the engine is quieter/smoother now (no bucking).

 

Yes Tugly you are correct it does run a lot smoother and sounds much better at idle so I know I did some good. I just ordered the turbo rebuild kit from Riff Raff along with pedastill o rings so hopefully that solves the white cloud at standing start. Although it is a wonerful deterrent for those a hole tail gators especially here on LI where rudeness behind the wheel is a birth right. Thanks

 

Wanted to show the injector and copper washer orientation from my shop manual. Not sure how important it is but it is what the good book says. Thanks

 

That is how I have always installed the copper washer. One of the perks of doing it this way is with a little oil on the washer before installing, it makes a vacuum seal to stay on the tip while sinking the injector into the head. I have never had a copper washer come loose with this orientation - not even when those alleged grip tabs are less than grippy.