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It's been twenty five years since I built an engine. Actually, the only time. Something I had always wanted to do and I had the opportunity with a 390 I got for my 65' F100 back in 91'.
Anyway, Can I just purchase a set of rings? What do I need to do to get a correct set? I have all the paper work from when this engine was rebuilt back in 05'.
Why do you want just rings? Have you looked at the cylinders yet? If they're worn or damaged it will have to be bored, then you'll need pistons and rings.
Is there a ridge in the cylinder bores at the very top? If so then you need it bored and oversize pistons and rings. If not then do at least a hone job to remove the rust in your cylinders.
If you buy this tool also, put your drill on a medium speed. Oil the cylinders down with a thin layer of engine oil. Set the diameter of the hone's stones so they aren't too tight in the bores. While spinning the hone in the bores with the drill move it up and down medium fast. You want to only remove the rust, get the full cylinder top to bottom, and put a criss cross pattern in the bore.
Depending on what the oil pressure was before tear down and mileage on the engine, You might be doing main and cam bearings along with the rods and rings. I say do it Once.....and never look back. People are usually glad they did.
Got a dial bore indicator and a set of outside micrometers? The important part is that the bore is not excessively tapered along the throw axis and not egg shaped in the bore itself. Three measurements, 120 degrees apart, one set at top, mid and bottom. If you are within the factory specs all is well. If not you will eat some rings in a hurry.
Got a dial bore indicator and a set of outside micrometers? The important part is that the bore is not excessively tapered along the throw axis and not egg shaped in the bore itself. Three measurements, 120 degrees apart, one set at top, mid and bottom. If you are within the factory specs all is well. If not you will eat some rings in a hurry.
Upon verifying the block does not need to be bored, use a dingle-ball hone to break the glaze and to give the cylinders a crosshatch pattern so the new rings will seat properly.
Upon verifying the block does not need to be bored, use a dingle-ball hone to break the glaze and to give the cylinders a crosshatch pattern so the new rings will seat properly.
Dingle ball hone! New one to me. I know what your talking about though. First kind I ever used in auto mech. in HS. Little more forgiving than the other type if I remember. When I did the rebuild on the 390 they did all the machine work at the engine shop. All I had to do was " build the model ". That is what I compare doing this stuff to. If you built models as a kid, you should be able to build an engine or resto a vehicle to a certain degree I've always found.
Be careful different Pistons take different (thickness) sized rings , I came across this when I was putting my 390 together . i was going to reuse the original Tbird pistons, but found out the 67 year had different size rings . couldn't find them so just ordered new .
I have been following your threads and posts.
As I have read, you have the pan down for some water-ingestion issues. And you have the heads off, obviously.
If you have the bucks, follow all the way with the above suggestions on boring, cam bearings...
But if you are short, think about an Okie overhaul. A Toothless Jake operation.
No ridge, no severe bore wear. So:
Send the heads to a shop for a valve job.
Pull the pistons. Get a read on the rod bearing shells and piston diameters from a machine shop. A twenty-dollar bill will suffice from the motorhead.
Get the shells, rings, a timing chain, gaskets. Oil pump also.
Do a Hio dangle-***** hone. Clean up, replace the pistons and shells.
Whatever out-of-round you have in the bores, the new elastic rings will figure out in 5,000 miles. They will reseat and give you a Toothless Jake rebore. Stagger the gaps in the rings.
Jake is speaking to me from the grave.
I have been following your threads and posts.
As I have read, you have the pan down for some water-ingestion issues. And you have the heads off, obviously.
If you have the bucks, follow all the way with the above suggestions on boring, cam bearings...
But if you are short, think about an Okie overhaul. A Toothless Jake operation.
No ridge, no severe bore wear. So:
Send the heads to a shop for a valve job.
Pull the pistons. Get a read on the rod bearing shells and piston diameters from a machine shop. A twenty-dollar bill will suffice from the motorhead.
Get the shells, rings, a timing chain, gaskets. Oil pump also.
Do a Hio dangle-***** hone. Clean up, replace the pistons and shells.
Whatever out-of-round you have in the bores, the new elastic rings will figure out in 5,000 miles. They will reseat and give you a Toothless Jake rebore. Stagger the gaps in the rings.
Jake is speaking to me from the grave.
Semper Fi
Thanks for the tips as I think I'm going to toothless Jake it. I really can't go all out and I cleaned up the cylinders with 000 Steel wool. There's no ridge and the marring was pretty much just that.
A honing I will go. What do you mean by rod bearing shells? You mean the rod bearings?
Also, whomever said to check the ring thickness, Thanks. I suppose the motorhead can tell me that as well?
I love it... a toothless Jake rebore! LMAO the more I think about it.
I've only heard about this technique but I think if I'm careful on it's first few thousand miles it should be GTG.
If not than I'll have to pull the engine and do it right. Just something I really can't do right now.
My most comforting thought in all this is it was running fine except for carb issues ( if that makes sense? ) It just bogged when I really got into it before I parked her.