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Yes, shells are rod bearings. If you take a piston and rod to a quality shop they will quickly identify what you have and give you rings to fit the piston and bearings.
For the level at which you are going into the motor, steel wool or fine sandpaper will be okay. The idea is to scuff the glaze and put some "tooth" on the cylinder walls until the rings seat.
Look at the crank throws as you go. If you see scoring or anything alarming come back in.
Cam and main bearings don't move and will last a lot longer than reciprocating stuff. Like, two Toothless Jake overhauls.
The oil pump and timing chain should be replaced.
You are not building up a revver. It will be a driver.
If you want to use Hio's dangle-ball hone, go for it. Toothless Jake left the hone debris in the cylinder before inserting pistons. Rings seat faster, you see.
Yes, shells are rod bearings. If you take a piston and rod to a quality shop they will quickly identify what you have and give you rings to fit the piston and bearings.
For the level at which you are going into the motor, steel wool or fine sandpaper will be okay. The idea is to scuff the glaze and put some "tooth" on the cylinder walls until the rings seat.
Look at the crank throws as you go. If you see scoring or anything alarming come back in.
Cam and main bearings don't move and will last a lot longer than reciprocating stuff. Like, two Toothless Jake overhauls.
The oil pump and timing chain should be replaced.
You are not building up a revver. It will be a driver.
If you want to use Hio's dangle-ball hone, go for it. Toothless Jake left the hone debris in the cylinder before inserting pistons. Rings seat faster, you see.
Awaiting incoming from the guys,
Semper Fi
Left the debris in huh??? I think I'll keep it clean though Never heard of metal debris leading to many positive results.
Of course, leaving the hone spoil in the cylinder was a joke. But the Okie overhaul advice was not.
If you are just driving the thing day-by-day, listen to Toothless Jake . He will get you another ten years out of that motor and save you 2-3k.
Here's piston # 1. The marring I was seeing on all the cylinders is from piston slap. It's uniform across all cylinders from what I can see. A quick wire wheeling gets rid of it.
The rings look good on this one but I know it isn't easy to tell just by looking.
So, my first thought on the cause is timing? What do you guys think?
For a stock street engine a .020 crank is alright if it's in good condition. You might want to use plastigage on the crank to check the clearance. Did you drop any main caps? If so check them also. Cross hatch the bore with your new rings and the short block should last quite a while. What is your plan with the heads?
For a stock street engine a .020 crank is alright if it's in good condition. You might want to use plastigage on the crank to check the clearance. Did you drop any main caps? If so check them also. Cross hatch the bore with your new rings and the short block should last quite a while. What is your plan with the heads?
Well, I check for any wiggle and all were tight so the guides are good. The seats and valve faces look great. I was thinking about maybe a lapping and new seals. Slap her back together once I hone, install pistons w/ new rings and rod bearings and new timing chain and oil pump.
I would ask your machinist if he would suggest rod balancing. The guy that is doing my work says it is pretty important and worth the money while they are out. Its about $10 each
I would ask your machinist if he would suggest rod balancing. The guy that is doing my work says it is pretty important and worth the money while they are out. Its about $10 each
Yeah, but are you doing a "toothless Jake" as I was informed what I am doing is called?
If you're doing a complete build then yeah, I can see getting the rods balanced but for me and my situation nah, just want her to be like she was before I delved into the abyss.
Cripes, you can still see a lot of cross hatching on the cylinder walls from the last rebuild.
Even the machinist said unless I'm going to do it completely, this is the next best thing.
Idk if I agree with a toothless jake resemblance, lol. If you took it to a shop and had them replace the rings, they wouldnt rebuild your engine unless you needed/wanted it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You are doing what is necessary. Maybe a gap toothed Jethro?
I'll agree with what your doing if its not a street rod or show just need the truck to use I get it we've done this type of thing a lot on the old farm machines can't always go all out just need it to run we have had good and bad luck at it that's why its an adventure
learning experience
Cripes, you can still see a lot of cross hatching on the cylinder walls from the last rebuild.
Even the machinist said unless I'm going to do it completely, this is the next best thing.
If you can still see the cross hatching top to bottom and all the way around all the bores then don't do much honing at all. If the cross hatching is still complete then the bores are not worn. Don't forget to clean block and bores real well after the honing. We don't want any metal particles anywhere.
If you can still see the cross hatching top to bottom and all the way around all the bores then don't do much honing at all. If the cross hatching is still complete then the bores are not worn. Don't forget to clean block and bores real well after the honing. We don't want any metal particles anywhere.
Since the block is sitting in the truck with the crank, how do you recommend cleaning?
I tried to cover the crank with paper towels but I know some of the debris will get places.
I'm waiting on the rings to be delivered. Once I get them I am going to do the honing.
Well, with the pistons out obviously the rods won't be in your way. I would drape a damp towel over the crank. This will hold whatever metal particles may fall. Once honed, I would use a shop vacuum in the bores and all around. Then wipe the bores down with a fresh and clean wash cloth that is damp and has a little dish soap in it. After the bores wipe the rod journals on the crank down to make sure. Then wipe a thin layer of engine oil on the bores and journals. Even though you know the crank is .020 under you really should still plasti gauge those rod bearings to make sure you don't get them too tight.
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Never heard of metal debris leading to many positive results.
