There should be a float in the brake fluid resivor. Mine was sticking down and I had to work it up and down some to get it to move freely. I could push it down with my finger but had to use a pick to lift it back up.

When it is down at the bottom it should signal the red brake warning light in the cluster to come on.

Kevin

 

If you want another one let me know I will get you one at cost!.
I don't think I have the tools for the AC. I can't vacuum it out I was going to get the new drier and something else I read about. and take it to a shop in town but if you know how to geter done I'm all ears. I have opened the system up to remove the condenser when installing the IC.

 

I don't know, My light does not come on but the parking brake light does when I want it too. Is that the same light?

 

you can vac out your own AC with a pump from ebay for under 60 bucks

 

Yes, same light. Maybe the wiring to the brake fluid reservoir is unhooked.

Sorry, I am out of ideas. I will keep watching the thread though in case you have updates.

Kevin

 

That would be awesome! I'll have to wait to get some money before I could get another one but once I have the funds I'd like one.

For the AC, it may still be cheaper if you buy the tools than if you take it to a shop, especially if your system is empty now. The most expensive tool will be the manifold gauge set. Unless you can get a good used one, you're probably going to have to spend about 100 bucks on one. A shop is probably going to charge you about 100 bucks to vacuum the system down though (and all they do is hook up the hoses then walk away for an hour or more.) For vacuuming down the system, if you have an Air Compressor, you can go to harbor freight and get their 13 dollar vacuum pump. You hook up the manifold gauge set yellow hose to the end of the vacuum pump, then hook the air compressor hose to the other end of the pump. It works surprisingly well, especially at under 20 bucks. I've used it quite a few times and have had no problems. The only downside is if your compressor is small, you'll have to open and close the valves a bunch to let it build vacuum, but it works fine!

Once the system is vacuum downed and no confirmed that there are no leaks, adding the refrigerant is pretty straight forward as well. It's best to get the cheapest R-134a you can find. You don't need all the leak additives and all the junk that just raises the price. Walmart sells the 12oz cans for under 5 bucks each, while parts stores like to sell them for 12-15 bucks each.

 

tired to bleed the rear brakes. I could not get the the darn bolt to unscrew to bleed it. its like a 9.5mm or between a 3/8 and 7/16 but neither one fits. either way I cant open them. so they will be replaced with every other ****ing part on this ****ing truck

 

Man I cannot believe what you have gone through with this truck. Pretty sure those bleeder screws are 7/16. My truck is rust free and they were STILL a bitch to crack open.

 

I think they are welded in. easier to replace then fix. whats another 500$.. So burned out. thanks for the support though.