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As, I look back at a few pictures, I noticed the top of the rotor has a lot of carbon built up that should not be their. Possibly that center carbon piece is coming apart. Hope you changes out all the ignition parts, like done in a full tune up.
Like , I stated before have not gone back an re-read to see which carb & model you've got and how it's adjusted.
If it's a 4brl. holly there should not be any play in the Aux pump arm or you get a flat spot when giving it the gas.
The idle circuit on a carb feels gas up to about 25-30 which sound like your problem areas.
Orich
I'm running a autolite 2100 on this and I'll definitely do a tune up. So having my idle mixture screws set up wrong can cause me to stumble when taking off?
Dang, I'm glad with this being my first carbureted vehicle that I have you guys to learn off of, otherwise I'd be lost and having to call my grandparents every time I have an issue
Some of that same crap is prolly in the carb's jets and internal passages. That would cause problems. Consider rebuilding it. The "whoosh of air" you mentioned has me thinking vacuum leak. Locate the air sound. Exhaust leak or vacuum leak? Also put a tach and dwell meter on it. 1st off check the dwell to be at or real close to 30 degrees for a V8. If it's not then adjust the points gap. If it is, then raise the idle up to about 1500 RPM. Check dwell again. Did it change much compared to at idle? If it changed more than 2-3 degrees then either the Dizzy's shaft bushings are worn or the points breaker plate (as mentioned by someone else previously) is tipping instead of pivoting. I'd also pull some spark plugs and read their tips to see if you have a lean mixture or not. And put that vacuum gauge on it. It will tell you a lot.
Well as it turns out, I'm kicking myself for not checking this sooner. You can't even see the bottom of the can! What am I looking at to clean out the carb without disassembling the carb?
YouTube seems to have some descent video on how to rebuild a 2100 carbs if your worried about doing it and getting it all put back together.
orich
Well the reason it's a big deal is my truck is my DD, so in the meantime since I have no brakes and engine runs like crap, I have to use my hailed out, alternator squealing Oldsmobile which is asking to get pulled over. I'll get some carb cleaner and order a rebuild kit. Definitely gonna buy a vacuum gauge tomorrow
There are some excellent videos on the 2100, plus all the manuals are available for free download. The amount of information available at our fingertips these days is amazing.
The fuel level in the bowl should be 29/32" from the flat machined surface at the top of the bowl, down to the surface of the fuel. You probably don't always have a machinist rule with you, but you probably have a quarter, this happens to be very close to 29/32" In this photo the fuel height is very low, after maybe a month without starting the fuel evaporates.
The idea though is to adjust the _float height_ up, or down, as required to reach 29/32" _fuel height_ in the bowl from the top of the fuel to the machined surface flat at the carb top. Let the engine idle for a few minutes and shut the engine OFF. Then check fuel height. Later on if you are super careful you can let the engine idle with the carb horn removed and observe that the fuel height maintains the proper height.
That thing needs a rebuild. Clean everything thoroughly with carb dip and carb cleaner and blow out all the passages with compressed (shop) air. Get it zeroed in, new gaskets, spacer, and no vacuum leaks. They are one of the best carbs ever made. But they need to be clean inside. Mike @ Mike's Carburetors recommends replacing that style of float with brass, btw. He says the plastic floats are prone to getting fuel logged and sinking iirc.
Question, after hearing about holleys "ethanol air bleed clog" I've ran ethanol in this twice. Do you think it's possible for that to happen in my 2100? I'm really not wanting to have to rebuild this YET so I'm hoping that giving the air bleeds a spray will fix my issue
They are so simple, it's tough to make an excuse not to do it right. The gaskets can be reused, in my experience. Coat them with vaseline (chapstick works) and they won't stick.
There is a ball check valve and weight in the accelerator pump circuit. Other than that there are only a few parts. You can get by not replacing the needle and seat, and the float for now. You'll want to clean everything out though. It just looks like a lot of crud in there. There are a gazillion really tiny orifice and passages in those things, air bleeds and whatnot.
