Here's the story.
My husband and I purchased a 2004 f250 king ranch 6.0L
We love the truck, despite the headaches. We took it to a dealership and spent just under $5k in parts, drove it for a month (everything going great) until we shut it off to bs w a friend and it won't turn back on. It's been sitting for 4 days and nothing. Cranks and cranks, but won't actually start. We are pretty handy with gas trucks, but this diesel is out of our element- we are getting better though haha!

We looked on here and saw that the no start could be bc of the FICM - swapped it out- not the issue.
Now the codes being thrown are P2291 & P2285 (or so my husband says)
We are thinking if we replace the ICP and that fixes it, we won't need to do the HPOP. Or do we need to do it as well? Are we on the right track? Please help.
When we shut it off, it didn't have any lights on, no gauge fluctuations, or any "red flags". This is why we are stumped!!

(Ford dealership fixes:
2 batteries, new starter, new tank cap, new oil cooler, maybe a few others- reciepts not infront of me while I wrestle my lil one)

Like I mentioned, we've already dropped more money than we have into this truck and now it's taking more- we love the truck and once it's fixed we will "have a new truck" it just sucks bc my husband works afternoons and I'm a stay at home mom with a 14mo and this is our only vehicle

 

You are going to need gauges that read live data to diagnose this like scan gauge II, edge insight CTS ( my personal favorite ) or one of the smartphone apps like dashboss for ios devices or torque pro for android.

 

Try unplugging the ICP so the computer reads default.

Was it turned off and no restart, or did it die and no restart? You said two different things..

 

I had my husband disconnect the icp and try and start. (Read that on here somewhere) still wouldn't start.

We turned the truck off, chatted for 10-20mins with a friend, tried starting her back up, nothing-cranks and cranks but won't actually start.

So get guages to read live data although it won't start?

 

Either that or take it somewhere and have them diag it you can't just throw parts at it and hope you get lucky sounds like you already bought a ficm you didn't need. Spending money on something to read live data will actually save you money.

 

The only reason we did the FICM is because what we read on here in previous posts by others is exactly what we are/were going through. But being that it's not that and that's one of the top failing parts on this particular truck (we will keep it on hand- I'm sure we will need it eventually- no harm no foul lifetime warranty)
But thanks, got that much. Back to the issue at hand. Not the FICM, get a live diagnosis scanner and go from there. Thanks for your input guys. Better to get ideas then "throw more parts at it"
Not trying to be mean, I'm just frustrated.. My husband only has so much time to work on it and when he leaves I'm wrestling a small active child and trying myself.
It's a difficult game to play.

 

You are going to need to read live data while cranking yes. Since the FICM is new thats probably fine.

You will need Cam/Crank SYNC, FICM SYNC and hopefully over 600 PSI at the ICP and around 75 IPR (Not 100% on that).. Being an early build i'm sure everyone is thinking the same thing that reads your post. Possible HPOP

 

Have you checked your oil level

 

Oil was changed less than 500 miles ago by dealer
But will check level in am
Thank you!!

 

As a Ford dealer tech since 2000, reading every post from top to bottom, and having wrenched on more than my share of these trucks with this engine, along with the exact symptoms you've described, my money is on a bad IPR valve as a very educated guess to be the culprit.

 

M-chan, Will the live scan diagnosis machine give us that info?

 

The live scan data will tell you if you are building up sufficient ICP (Injector Control Pressure) for the vehicle to start. The way it works, is if your high pressure oil pump is pumping up the oil pressure up to greater than 500 psi, the engine WILL start (provided all the other parameters required are met). At KOEO (key-on/engine-off), your ICP psi should indicate 0 psi (or close to), your IPR (Injector Pressure Regulator) duty cycle should indicate 14.84 % (or close to) and your ICP volts should read between 0.15 to 0.35 volts (usually 0.24 volts on most of the trucks I've worked on).


As you crank the engine over, attempting to start the engine, your ICP psi should climb from 0psi to over 1200psi (minimum 500psi required) in about two seconds while your IPR duty cycle should climb to about 45 to 50% and ICP volts should climb to about 1.2 volts (minimum 0.8 required) before the engine fires up.


If you are below your ICP volts is below, or fails to climb to 0.8 and beyond, as well as your ICP psi fails to climb past 500psi and your IPR duty cycle is maxxing out at 84.77%, the engine will not start due to insufficient ICP (Injector Control Pressure).

 

Thank you thank you!!
I appreciate all your input, from everyone!
The details are exactly what I needed to hear!
Gonna do the scan in the next few days and will keep you updated!!!
Again thank you very much!