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Wondering if, while engine is running, I pull off a cable from the distributor and it shocks me pretty good... is that normal? I was holding on to the grille shell with one hand.
Wondering if, while engine is running, I pull off a cable from the distributor and it shocks me pretty good... is that normal? I was holding on to the grille shell with one hand.
Yes. Lesson learned? Don't do that.
Old points ignition run around 20,000 volts, DSII probably around double that.
Haha, lesson learned. Still feel a little funny... I saw a video yesterday that said to take them off one by one to see if you notice the engines sound change. Had a couple minutes on my lunch break and tried it out. I either heard wrong or you do it with the engine off? Either way no idea what that would show. Engine sounds and runs fine but doesn't seem to have much power. Idles slower at stop signs and not much acceleration. Just got a vacuum gauge to test things out later. Any tips on testing for vacuum leaks would be much appreciated.
You remove one spark plug wire at a time, but do that at, the spark plug. Preferably with a well insulated tool so you don't get your zinger zapped again, or at least take video so we all get to see it....that stuff's funny
When you remove the plug wire, if the engine doesn't start running bad, then you found the cylinder that has an issue.
I saw a video yesterday that said to take them off one by one to see if you notice the engines sound change. Had a couple minutes on my lunch break and tried it out. I either heard wrong or you do it with the engine off?
Actually that is a valid way to test for a miss or a weak cylinder. But you do it carefully .
The way I do it is before I start the engine, I pull each wire out of the cap and place it back in the appropriate tower on the cap, that way you aren't having to deal with wires that are stubborn or stuck while the engine's running.
Once all the wires are loose, with the engine idling, pull each wire individually, one at a time, and listen. What you're looking for is a change in the way the engine sounds, the way it's idling. A cylinder that has strong compression or isn't missing will have a big change in idle. A weak or dead cylinder will have little to no change in the way the truck is idling.
As for the vacuum gauge, adjust the carbs idle circuit to get the highest vacuum reading. On a stock engine the idle vacuum should be around 20"Hg and be consistent. If the needle is jumping around or very low, there are problems that need to be diagnosed.
. Just got a vacuum gauge to test things out later. Any tips on testing for vacuum leaks would be much appreciated.
That vacuum gauge is a great tool. Get the engine up to a good running temp, then shut the engine off. Take the vacuum line from the back of the intake manifold to the power booster (If you have power brakes). And then connect that hose from the intake manifold, to the vacuum gauge, then start the engine. Make sure that is a good connection or you'll have a vacuum leak there and get a false reading.
Watch the gauge, and compare the reading of the gauge to the chart/paperwork that you should have gotten with your vacuum gauge.
When I was about 8 years old, hanging around my dads Olds dealership, a mechanic said come over here, I need your help. Grab onto this plug wire while I crank the engine.
Thanks for the info. I don't have power brakes. Is there another hose I could use? Just has to be to the manifold? Seems like I have a lot of hoses everywhere. Lots of hairy looking stuff.
My first choice would be the one circled. If it's too big for your tester's hose then any of the others will work too.
The important thing is you're reading direct manifold vacuum, not ported or a reduced vacuum signal.
I once got hold of an HEI coil accidentally why trying to time the engine. I couldn't let go. The engine kept running but badly. I finally managed to shake the timing light out of my hand. Had scrapes on my hands and head from banging around in the engine compartment.
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