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I replaced both the front hub assemblies on my 2005 F-250 4x4 6.0 last Saturday and now my A.B.S. light is on. I checked all the connections, and used my Torque Pro app to remove all the codes, and the light still will not go off. I have not taken it for a drive yet, because it needs an allignment really bad. I disconnected both the negative battery cables hoping it would reset itself being disconnected for a few days. I also replaced the lower outer tie-rod and both 4x4 u-joints(thats why it needs an allignment). I am looking for any advice on what to do. Thanks.
Also, are the Bilstein 4600 series shocks any good?
If the ABS warning light came on exactly with the front hub change, it's more likely a problem with a front sensor. Either a connection is bad, a sensor is bad or the tone ring has an issue. What brand hubs?
Prime choice is the brand, bought of Amazon... I know I shouldn't have bought a no name brand from Amazon, but money is real tight and $400 bucks a pop at the local auto parts place was going to break my bank. The wheel bearings on both sides were completely shot along with the 4x4 u-joints. I did put the cables back under the dust shield, all connections are tight. I dont know what DTC is in reference to the first response. If it will not go away on its own, I think I will take them back off and contact the supplier and return them. Has anyone else had this issue when replacing the wheel hubs? I know that there is always a chance of getting crappy parts when they are bought online, maybe I can take the connectors off and put a bit of dielectric grease on them. Could a fuse be an issue?
Sean was asking what is the trouble code, designating what is wrong. Another option is taking it to some who has a scanner or oscilloscope to read the individual signals. At the very least, if a person has a analog voltmeter you can watch the signal off each sensor. Checking what is going on first maybe less work intensive then pulling hubs.
There is a good acronym listing in the Tech Folder.
It may be something well worth reading.
If your wanting to save money then sadly you have to spend
some more on a tool to read the codes and give you live data
to help diagnose problems you might run into. If you have a
smartphone you can get a tool for under $30 that will work for
you with the apps that are out there for your phone. They have
both android and iphone. Just ask in the main 6.0 forum on how to use
then and what one is the best for you use.
I see you said that you haven't driven it yet. Drive it above 15 mph and the module should "see" that all is good and turn out the light.
If it's still got a light on, then download Forscan App and use it to monitor each wheel speed sensor. All three should match. If one is 0 when the other 2 read your mph, the one with a 0 reading is your fault.
The ABS controller should go through its check first and if that's OK then the light goes off before rolling. Only after rolling should it be looking for speed consistency in the outputs and then set the warning if there is not.
Pump run check
Valve movement check
Sensor continuity check
All good light out.
It's only the 10k+ vehicles that may retain a yellow light until 15mph is broached, but I don't think any of the Superdutys are running that system, unless my memory fails.
Thanks for all the input guys, After I get the allignment done I will take it for a good test drive and see what happens. I think the reason why the hubs and ujoints were shot is because they left the hubs locked in
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