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Not sure, it would depend on where you got the jumpseat from but there is space in between the two custom van seats.
Well, I've currently got the 40/20/40 deal up front, which I really like. This is my new family mover, so being able to seat 6 is nice, but I wouldn't mind upgraded seats if I can retain that functionality!
I'll be interested to hear how they ride when you get the truck moving.
1. remove as many dents as possible (hammer\dolly\puller)
2. Fix cracks\holes - weld. (or if real thin -fiberglass)
3. grind rust
4. Apply Bondo, sand- dents or dings- anything measured by a ruler
5. sand (120 grit-longest sanding board possible)
6. shoot with self etching primer - only large non-painted surfaces- let dry-follow directions on scuffing.
7. shoot with 2k or primer surfacer primer - let dry completely
8. sand (120 grit-longest sanding board possible) –use guide coat
9. Primer again, if the last coat came out smooth (see guide coat), move to 180 or 220 grit
10. Primer again, then wet sand 400.
11. Now wet a few paper towels with wax and grease remover and wipe the panel so it leaves a shiny film. Sight down the panel in a lighted area and tell me what you see. If you see the panel waving back to you, back to the long board and 180. If it's flat, you are golden. The reflection you will see is what the panel will look like in paint. (Stolen from another forum).
11. Shoot with 2-3 coats of color Single Stage - tack rag between coats
So I think the bed, fenders and other assorted pieces are ready for their final 400 grit wet sand and then color. Now it's time to start on the cab and doors. The rain we've been having, and the threat of rain is really slowing me down since I've got the cab outside and it's missing some glass. So I think it's time to roll it back in and tackle the surface rust on the roof of the cab. I may need to build a scoffold to get up that high to reach all of it!
Ordered 2 gallons of paint this morning. Been doing some more sanding, but the surface rust is really slowing me down so I also ordered a stripper disc. Hoping to spray the color this month, and start bolting it back together, then to redo maintenance items like fluids and filters and some wiring to get past state inspection.
Paint is almost done. Still got a little more to shoot before the bed goes back on.
Ran into two questions when trying to bolt things back together.
1. The Energy Suspension bushings have two pieces for the core support. However, I feel like there should be another piece. I'll post some shots of what I think it looks like. The question is. Does the core support rest on the flat washer\nut or is there another piece that goes inbetween?
2. The evap system was completely hacked up. I've found the line that runs to the charcoal canister, and tee's off under the cab for the tanks. The tanks have 2 nipples each for the vent. Each one has a small and large nipple. Which nipple connects to the tee line for the Charcoal canister, and where does the other side of the vent go? Pics to follow.
Paint is almost done. Still got a little more to shoot before the bed goes back on.
Ran into two questions when trying to bolt things back together.
1. The Energy Suspension bushings have two pieces for the core support. However, I feel like there should be another piece. I'll post some shots of what I think it looks like. The question is. Does the core support rest on the flat washer\nut or is there another piece that goes inbetween?
2. The evap system was completely hacked up. I've found the line that runs to the charcoal canister, and tee's off under the cab for the tanks. The tanks have 2 nipples each for the vent. Each one has a small and large nipple. Which nipple connects to the tee line for the Charcoal canister, and where does the other side of the vent go? Pics to follow.
Thanks to 77mud for getting me this core support picture:
And FordTruckFan for figuring out the routing on those fuel tank vents. In case anyone else has the question. The large nipple connects to the vent line, then the canister the small nipple connects to a hose that ends in a vent cap.
FordTruckFan also stopped by and gave a hand bolting on the doors for the next step.
I appreciate all the help from everyone on this forum. Best group of guys on the internet (don't quote me on that though! )
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
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