Pulling 2001 E-350 5.4 heads with engine in van?
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Pulling 2001 E-350 5.4 heads with engine in van?
Hello, can you pull 2001 E-350 5.4 heads with engine in van?
A timing chain made a clackity clack sound at idle then the engine stopped. I'm thinking a tensioner failed & a timing chain jumped teeth & a valve kissed a piston. When I see which side skipped I hope to pull that head only. My machinist says he's seen these engines survive interference with only a valve or two needing replacement (especially when it happens at idle) but we'll see how the piston looks :/
Anyway, there's a YouTube vid of a guy pulling Triton heads with engine still in an E-250 by holding the head bolts in place with rubber bands (& cursing a lot!) but he says someone else reported that it wasn't possible on the E-350...he also commented: "It is hard to pull the heads off on one of these vans. I took the passenger seat out and it made it a little bit easier. Even some of the head bolts dont come all the way out. When you put the head back on some of the bolts have to be in the head before you put it on." https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kDg5mdHEl_Q
Many thanks in advance
A timing chain made a clackity clack sound at idle then the engine stopped. I'm thinking a tensioner failed & a timing chain jumped teeth & a valve kissed a piston. When I see which side skipped I hope to pull that head only. My machinist says he's seen these engines survive interference with only a valve or two needing replacement (especially when it happens at idle) but we'll see how the piston looks :/
Anyway, there's a YouTube vid of a guy pulling Triton heads with engine still in an E-250 by holding the head bolts in place with rubber bands (& cursing a lot!) but he says someone else reported that it wasn't possible on the E-350...he also commented: "It is hard to pull the heads off on one of these vans. I took the passenger seat out and it made it a little bit easier. Even some of the head bolts dont come all the way out. When you put the head back on some of the bolts have to be in the head before you put it on." https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kDg5mdHEl_Q
Many thanks in advance
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
He is NOT a happy camper---this video definitely NOT safe for work or little kids. 
One of our members here is undergoing a complete engine swap (V10 into E-Series body) and has a few photos of the old long block still in the frame. The V8's are similar enough height-wise so perhaps you can get an idea what you're with removing one or both heads? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gine-swap.html
If you have a small enough bore scope inspecting the valves before yanking the heads might save a lot of trouble and expense. I'd suggest posting your question in FTE's Modular Motors sub-forum as more than a few have dealt with timing chain replacement. Someone there can say definitely if bent valves are a possibility.
Hope this isn't too much more involved than just the timing chains---which is bad enough I know.
Let us know what you do----could be helpful down the road.
One of our members here is undergoing a complete engine swap (V10 into E-Series body) and has a few photos of the old long block still in the frame. The V8's are similar enough height-wise so perhaps you can get an idea what you're with removing one or both heads? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gine-swap.html
If you have a small enough bore scope inspecting the valves before yanking the heads might save a lot of trouble and expense. I'd suggest posting your question in FTE's Modular Motors sub-forum as more than a few have dealt with timing chain replacement. Someone there can say definitely if bent valves are a possibility.
Hope this isn't too much more involved than just the timing chains---which is bad enough I know.
Let us know what you do----could be helpful down the road.
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Many thanks for your reply but today is my lucky day, it's only a seized AC pulley bearing. I never would've guessed that'd stop a V-8 engine without at least belt squealing & smoke or prevent the starter from cranking it over but I did myself a BIG favor by checking it after removing the belt & before tear down!
When I popped off the AC compressor pulley the remaining (very dry) ball bearings fell out so that's why it sounded like a bucket of bolts for a few seconds before seizing up (& why I feared it was a failed cam chain tensioner leading to interference).
Wow, idk if they're any good but a UAC CO101490C Compressor complete with clutch/pulley is only $110.62 shipped from Amazon.
BTW, a shorter Gates K060806 serpentine belt will let you drive in my situation by by-passing the AC pulley until you get to fixing it (or not). You just re-route the belt so the ribbed side of the belt runs on the smooth face of the upper idler pulley.
13/16" x 81-1/8" (20mm x 2061mm) $19.69 via Amazon Prime;
...& a few original type 1-1/8" wide belt choices for use WITH AC are:
-Motorcraft JK8996AA V-Ribbed Belt $28.79 Amazon free shipping;
-Dayco 5080990 3yr warrantee $36.99 @Autozone;
-DuraLast 990K8 or 1080990 1 yr warrantee $30.99 @Autozone.
...still curious if the heads are removable with the engine in place though...
When I popped off the AC compressor pulley the remaining (very dry) ball bearings fell out so that's why it sounded like a bucket of bolts for a few seconds before seizing up (& why I feared it was a failed cam chain tensioner leading to interference).
Wow, idk if they're any good but a UAC CO101490C Compressor complete with clutch/pulley is only $110.62 shipped from Amazon.
BTW, a shorter Gates K060806 serpentine belt will let you drive in my situation by by-passing the AC pulley until you get to fixing it (or not). You just re-route the belt so the ribbed side of the belt runs on the smooth face of the upper idler pulley.
13/16" x 81-1/8" (20mm x 2061mm) $19.69 via Amazon Prime;
...& a few original type 1-1/8" wide belt choices for use WITH AC are:
-Motorcraft JK8996AA V-Ribbed Belt $28.79 Amazon free shipping;
-Dayco 5080990 3yr warrantee $36.99 @Autozone;
-DuraLast 990K8 or 1080990 1 yr warrantee $30.99 @Autozone.
...still curious if the heads are removable with the engine in place though...
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Holy crap.. after doing plugs on my van I think I'd rather fall on my sword than attempt a head swap in the vehicle.. count your lucky stars you didn't have to go there. I don't care if pulling a head is "possible" or not I think I'd find a way to lift the body off the frame instead and save my sanity.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,512
Likes: 18
From: Detroit
In terms of heads, my Ford dealer replaced the heads on my '02 E150 with 4.6. The first couple years of PI 4.6 engines from Romeo had insufficient cooling to the rear cylinders and would develop exhaust valve ticking from carbon on the valve stems.
My heads were done by the dealer under warranty with the engine in the van. I also knew another Boy Scout dad from our troop who fried the cam bearings in his 4.6 heads with a bad oil pump and he replaced one or both heads himself but it took him a long time.
The 5.4 has taller and wider decks than the 4.6 so I would assume the job is somewhat harder but would guess that it is possible but certainly not easy.
George
My heads were done by the dealer under warranty with the engine in the van. I also knew another Boy Scout dad from our troop who fried the cam bearings in his 4.6 heads with a bad oil pump and he replaced one or both heads himself but it took him a long time.
The 5.4 has taller and wider decks than the 4.6 so I would assume the job is somewhat harder but would guess that it is possible but certainly not easy.
George
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Definitely great news on this "only" being the A/C compressor. 
When I've needed new A/C compressors I've found Motorcraft through eBay for less than $200 shipped. There are a few other good brands too---looking through the Heating, Cooling, Ventilation sub-forum here on FTE might show a good alternative and compromise between price and quality.
Bypassing it all is another way to go if that's not one of the must have's for your van---I couldn't (or wouldn't want to) live without it.
Thanks for the update but maybe someone will come along with some experience removing just the heads of the 5.4's and 6.8's for that matter too.
When I've needed new A/C compressors I've found Motorcraft through eBay for less than $200 shipped. There are a few other good brands too---looking through the Heating, Cooling, Ventilation sub-forum here on FTE might show a good alternative and compromise between price and quality.
Bypassing it all is another way to go if that's not one of the must have's for your van---I couldn't (or wouldn't want to) live without it.
Thanks for the update but maybe someone will come along with some experience removing just the heads of the 5.4's and 6.8's for that matter too.
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Many thanks for your reply but today is my lucky day, it's only a seized AC pulley bearing. I never would've guessed that'd stop a V-8 engine without at least belt squealing & smoke or prevent the starter from cranking it over but I did myself a BIG favor by checking it after removing the belt & before tear down!
When I popped off the AC compressor pulley the remaining (very dry) ball bearings fell out so that's why it sounded like a bucket of bolts for a few seconds before seizing up (& why I feared it was a failed cam chain tensioner leading to interference).
Wow, idk if they're any good but a UAC CO101490C Compressor complete with clutch/pulley is only $110.62 shipped from Amazon.
BTW, a shorter Gates K060806 serpentine belt will let you drive in my situation by by-passing the AC pulley until you get to fixing it (or not). You just re-route the belt so the ribbed side of the belt runs on the smooth face of the upper idler pulley.
13/16" x 81-1/8" (20mm x 2061mm) $19.69 via Amazon Prime;
...& a few original type 1-1/8" wide belt choices for use WITH AC are:
-Motorcraft JK8996AA V-Ribbed Belt $28.79 Amazon free shipping;
-Dayco 5080990 3yr warrantee $36.99 @Autozone;
-DuraLast 990K8 or 1080990 1 yr warrantee $30.99 @Autozone.
...still curious if the heads are removable with the engine in place though...
When I popped off the AC compressor pulley the remaining (very dry) ball bearings fell out so that's why it sounded like a bucket of bolts for a few seconds before seizing up (& why I feared it was a failed cam chain tensioner leading to interference).
Wow, idk if they're any good but a UAC CO101490C Compressor complete with clutch/pulley is only $110.62 shipped from Amazon.
BTW, a shorter Gates K060806 serpentine belt will let you drive in my situation by by-passing the AC pulley until you get to fixing it (or not). You just re-route the belt so the ribbed side of the belt runs on the smooth face of the upper idler pulley.
13/16" x 81-1/8" (20mm x 2061mm) $19.69 via Amazon Prime;
...& a few original type 1-1/8" wide belt choices for use WITH AC are:
-Motorcraft JK8996AA V-Ribbed Belt $28.79 Amazon free shipping;
-Dayco 5080990 3yr warrantee $36.99 @Autozone;
-DuraLast 990K8 or 1080990 1 yr warrantee $30.99 @Autozone.
...still curious if the heads are removable with the engine in place though...
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