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tailgate safety button/sensor etc window stuck up

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  #1  
Old 06-10-2016, 12:41 PM
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tailgate safety button/sensor etc window stuck up

My window was stuck down yesterday, I opened tail gate closed the latches on driver side manually and then the window operated fine. I then opened the latch slammed door and rolled window up thinking I was a magician and fixed the problem. Now the window is stuck up and will not roll down so I can not open the tailgate. I want to bypass that switch, How long of a job am I looking at and does anyone know the two colors of the two wires going to safety switch? I am taking a few of my buddys golfing tonight at this fully lit night course and it would be nice if we could take the bronco and get the clubs in and out and I only have about an hour- hour and a half of open window. thanks
 
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:34 AM
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Sorry but fixing that will take some time, there are several ways to lower that window but you need to diagnose the cause. Before anything I would push real well both corners of the tailgate against the latches, even pushing while I try to lower the window using the key switch. Does the electric motor make any noise when you try? I'm fairly sure the problem in your case is the safety switch since you mentioned it gave you trouble already, but there could be more to it.
 
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:12 PM
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The latch on the left side was going bad on my '94 and would not allow the window to operate unless I pushed in on the tailgate. Another problem I ran into was the wiring between the body and tailgate grommets on the '87. After years of use they had become brittle and broke.
 
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Old 09-15-2018, 01:40 PM
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I know this thread is a bit old ! Just replaced the latch rod mechanism in the tailgate. The arm going to the tailgate handle must not have gotten any plating because it alone was rusted so bad it would bend before releasing the tailgate. Got the new mechanism from LMC plus some other stuff including the plastic rod locks for the ends of the rods. I have very little meat or skin left on my arms ! 2 arms are for the L/R latch releases. 1 upper arm is for rod to the release handle. Where does the lower arm for the down rod go ? It has no bends for connecting thru a hole somewhere. It must be the window down safety feature. Where and how is it routed to hook under something, probably the lower edge of the window glass. It also seems to somewhat float loosely. Also, how does the key switch lock come out? I have removed the clip, but am afraid to "gorilla fist" it too much. Sorry for long, but you should see my arms waving !! Oh yes, it is a 93 eb and I also have the evtm.
 
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by benshere
.........Also, how does the key switch lock come out? I have removed the clip, but am afraid to "gorilla fist" it too much....Oh yes, it is a 93 eb.
Since it is an Eddie Bauer you have the stainless trim panel? If so, that willl need to be taken off to remove the lock cylinder.
 
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:53 PM
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I finally had enough skin and flesh left on my arms to finish with the latch mechanism. Quite a job, had to take loose each side latches to get enough room to snap the rods into the new tailgate latch. That involved removing each of the side tracks on the tailgate. I am going to have to trouble shoot the 12V feeds from both the dash and key switch. C.B. 12 & 14 are the feeds. I am missing a feed, maybe from the under-hood fuse that feeds at least 12. 12 also feeds the lumbar supports and they do not work. Couldn't find a one of my several multi meters or even cheep voltmeters--------naturally ! Didnt feel up to engineering some kind of 12V tester. Worry about that tomorrow---or another day! I also figured out the bottom rod of the release mechanism. It hooks the bottom of the glass when the window is down and will allow the tailgate release handle to pull on the side rods to each side latch. It just hangs down loose until the glass hits it when fully down. For those who did not already know The 2 feed wires for the motor were both separated right at the key switch junction. A real PIA, very short and under the inner panel. I like soldered connections with good insulation, so I finally got the connections fixed. I will try to verify the feeds somewhere further up toward the front. Before the motor froze up all that worked----hopefully wont have to remove the key switch. TX for the reply---
 
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