Help! 302 overheating
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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Help! 302 overheating
So I think this has been an issue since my dad replaced the radiator over a year ago, but it hasn't been driven an awful lot since then. He replaced the radiator but I don't think he refilled it properly and/or with enough coolant. I have been driving it sporadically usually no more than 30 miles or so at a time and when I return home, let it cool, remove the cap and check the upper reservoir it is empty. I add until the coolant level is about 1-2 inches above the bottom as per service manual. I have done this many times now. The temp guage reads fine while driving for a while and then overheats about the time I get home (no more than 30 miles). On a couple of occasions I have heard the coolant boiling after I park it and shut her off. Radiator is bascially new. Should I replace the thermostat?? What could be causing this consistent overheating???
I suspected a head gasket a while back but compression check came out good on all cylinders.
I suspected a head gasket a while back but compression check came out good on all cylinders.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
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From: Durham, NC
Thermostat. I would go with a 160 degree since you are in FL. And I bet it has something stock like a 190+ in there now. Plus they are wear items...
I just hate buying the proud gasket ($4). Be sure to place the week hole towards the top!
I just hate buying the proud gasket ($4). Be sure to place the week hole towards the top!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Believe it or not thermostat's got nothin' to do with it, assuming it's installed correctly as you note. Probably 90+ per cent of the cars and trucks in Florida (and everywhere else) have a 180F or 195F thermostat.
You actually want any engine to reach normal operating temperature, around 200F, as quickly as possible. This keeps cylinder wear, sludge, and pollution down, fuel mileage and engine life up.
If it's overheating on the highway the problem isn't the radiator. It probably needs a thorough engine flush, possible water pump rebuild. Is there a spring in the lower radiator hose? That's another thing to check.
You actually want any engine to reach normal operating temperature, around 200F, as quickly as possible. This keeps cylinder wear, sludge, and pollution down, fuel mileage and engine life up.
If it's overheating on the highway the problem isn't the radiator. It probably needs a thorough engine flush, possible water pump rebuild. Is there a spring in the lower radiator hose? That's another thing to check.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 7
From: Durham, NC
I'm with Tedster, I believe it would be much cheaper and faster to pull the water pump and rebuild it than throw a thermostat in there. And heck, 42 year old thermostats are just beginning to live their life. And besides, have absolutely nothing to do with an engine to overheat anyways. I don't think coolant even needs to pass through them does it???
As for the ole 160 debate, it's each-his-own and until you do your math and research and your own trial and error. Not an argument to get into on here... I prefer my engines to run 180-185 with a 160. According to my oil temp gage, it runs 15 degrees higher than that around 200. 190 puts my oil at 225 which is a tad more than I prefer.
As for the weather down here in the south, 90's here so far this spring with 95% humidity. How's the weather up there in Iowa today Ted?
As for the ole 160 debate, it's each-his-own and until you do your math and research and your own trial and error. Not an argument to get into on here... I prefer my engines to run 180-185 with a 160. According to my oil temp gage, it runs 15 degrees higher than that around 200. 190 puts my oil at 225 which is a tad more than I prefer.
As for the weather down here in the south, 90's here so far this spring with 95% humidity. How's the weather up there in Iowa today Ted?
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Junior User
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Believe it or not thermostat's got nothin' to do with it, assuming it's installed correctly as you note. Probably 90+ per cent of the cars and trucks in Florida (and everywhere else) have a 180F or 195F thermostat.
You actually want any engine to reach normal operating temperature, around 200F, as quickly as possible. This keeps cylinder wear, sludge, and pollution down, fuel mileage and engine life up.
If it's overheating on the highway the problem isn't the radiator. It probably needs a thorough engine flush, possible water pump rebuild. Is there a spring in the lower radiator hose? That's another thing to check.
You actually want any engine to reach normal operating temperature, around 200F, as quickly as possible. This keeps cylinder wear, sludge, and pollution down, fuel mileage and engine life up.
If it's overheating on the highway the problem isn't the radiator. It probably needs a thorough engine flush, possible water pump rebuild. Is there a spring in the lower radiator hose? That's another thing to check.
One thing that has me stumped is that the upper reservoir in the radiator is always practically dry when I check it after the truck rubs hot or overheats. Makes sense I guess but I have no noticeable leaks so is it possible that it was never filled up completely when the radiator was replaced? How can I make sure it has enough coolant and is free of air pockets?
I guess a good flush at the rad shop might be a good idea.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well radiator hoses no longer ship with an internal spring. Supposedly they aren't needed, better materials today I guess. But if the (lower) hose collapses on highway runs it will overheat.
One method I haven't had to try is to park the truck on jackstands or a healthy incline pointing uphill and run the motor with the cap off till any air slugs are purged.
One method I haven't had to try is to park the truck on jackstands or a healthy incline pointing uphill and run the motor with the cap off till any air slugs are purged.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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The water pump was replaced a couple years ago, and I probably haven't even put 1,500 miles on it since then. There is no spring in the lower radiator hose, should there be? I think I got the lower radiator hose a while back from LMC.
One thing that has me stumped is that the upper reservoir in the radiator is always practically dry when I check it after the truck rubs hot or overheats. Makes sense I guess but I have no noticeable leaks so is it possible that it was never filled up completely when the radiator was replaced? How can I make sure it has enough coolant and is free of air pockets?
I guess a good flush at the rad shop might be a good idea.
One thing that has me stumped is that the upper reservoir in the radiator is always practically dry when I check it after the truck rubs hot or overheats. Makes sense I guess but I have no noticeable leaks so is it possible that it was never filled up completely when the radiator was replaced? How can I make sure it has enough coolant and is free of air pockets?
I guess a good flush at the rad shop might be a good idea.
The coolant is going somewhere and low coolant may be why it is getting hot. Coolant can be escaping through the radiator cap if it is not well sealed or not holding pressure. Was the cap changed with the new radiator? Caps can also be pressure tested which may be a good idea or just change it.
You could also have a slow leak. Slow coolant leaks can be sneaky because the coolant evaporates as fast as it leaks. Look over the engine, hoses and radiator for telltale white deposits from evaporating anti freeze. The whole system can also be pressure tested by a radiator shop or garage.
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Junior User
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Forgive my ignorance, but I'm assuming an overflow tank is the same thing??? No, the truck doesn't have one. I have considered it, and with the symptoms i'm seeing I still may give it a try even though that shouldn't be the reason I'm having overheating issues I wouldn't think. Most people on the forums agree they are not needed, but it's cheap and a no harm no foul addition. A senior member (maybe HIO....) had referenced JEGS recirculating cans on a thread a while back. I may look into that, although if I remeber correctly it required a specific type of radiator cap.
This weekend I plan on replacing the radiator cap and checking for any signs of antifreeze evaporate. I'm going to try to burp the system of any air and fill the radiator back up with coolant. I figure start small and work my way through the possibilities. I've been using an approx. 70/30 mix of antifreeze and water as suggested in the service manual. Is this what others are doing??? Or should I be using a different ratio???
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Yeah, doesn't make a lot of sense does it
. I get caught up trying to do everything by the oem service manual. It never gets below 20F here and we barely had a winter last year so less antifreeze in the mix makes more sense.