Hey guys, I have been using this site for a while now...awesome info. This is my first post. I am rebuilding the steering column on my 2wd 75 f100 and can't figure out the lower bearing repair. I know I need a new bearing plus a few other pieces for it to sit in.....here is what it looks like. Can anyone help me with part no's and a quick step by step process to make this right?? Thanks!

 

Here is another picture

 

1974-1979 Ford Bronco and F-Series Truck Column Bearing, Lower
1974-1979 Ford Bronco and F-Series Truck Column Bearing, Lower

bronco graveyard should have what you need

 

I wouldn't bother with the stock parts. Bronco Graveyard has a kit that installs a ball bearing in the end of the column.
1974-1979 Ford Bronco and F-Series Truck Column Bearing, Lower-Broncograveyard.com

 

Blue top has a nice bearing for our columns

 

Looks like David and I are on (roughly) the same page .

 

A/T or M/T?

Note: 1973/79 F100/350 2WD uses a different lower steering column bearing than 1973/79 F100/250 4WD, 1979 F350 4WD & 1978/79 Bronco.

 

the page Im on takes 2 pages computer savvy im not

 

M/T with conversion to 3 speed floor shifter. Originally a 3 on the tree. If I use the bronco graveyard part do I need to remove the parts already on the end of the column? Or does the BGY part sit on top of them? If I have to remove - do they need to be pressed out or can I pry them with a screwdriver? Thanks for the quick responses fellas.

 

Also... What holds the bearing in the column and keeps it from sliding down the shaft once installed. Is that part no 3D681 ?

 

After searching a little, I'm resurrecting this thread as I'm running into the same headache- it's not entirely clear how the column is assembled, specifically the lower end. I own a '73 F250 non-tilt (if Ford ever made one in 73), power steering, automatic transmission. I've looked at a number of diagrams and the one above seems to best look like mine, even though my truck is '73. Anyone know where the 3C773 part can be located and how it can be removed? It looks like it's made to snap into the main tube, but it isn't clear how it's fixed onto the steering shaft. The other kicker is how the shift lever is sort of "clutch" fit to the shift tube. As least, mine sort of slips and that area of the assembly seems to be spot welded together? I'm wondering if it makes more sense to find a later year column that might be more serviceable to rebuild and swap in?
TIA for any help / assistance from someone that has torn into one of these.

 

I have a '73 F100 2WD auto. On mine the column originally had a plastic bushing that clips into the end of the column tube. After you tear down the column and remove the steering shaft, there are three tabs that need to be depressed, then you can pry the bushing out.
If you haven't torn down the column yet, it's actually pretty simple. The most frustrating part are the two square headed bolts that holt the upper flange to the column. Taking it apart is easy, the frustration comes durring reassembly. It's not hard really, just frustrating.
If you have the column out and the steering wheel off, there's a snap ring on the steering shaft you remove then you can slide the shaft out of the column.
Drive the roll pin out of the gear shift lever and remove the gear shift.
Make a map of the wires and remove the turn signal wires from the plastic connector.
Remove the screws that hold the switch to the flange.
Tie a string on the ends of the wires and pull the switch and wiring out of the column.
Remove the neutral start switch and unclip the actuator pin and remove.
Loosen the two nuts that clamp the upper flange to the steering column. Loosen them as much as possible, but don't take them all the way off.
Now, "jiggle" the flange until the bolts lose their grip and the flange comes off.
Next, pull the shift collar off, it just slides on the shift tube.
Now you can remove the shift tube, just pull it out of the column. There is a spring and, unless it's rotted away, a piece of insulation to keep things from rattling. The spring may or may not come out with the shift tube.
With the shift tube out you can now pull the shift arm out of the column, it's just sitting there.
When I rebuilt my column, I used the Bronco Graveyard bearing and tack welded it in instead of using the supplied screws.

 

Thanks Mike, your reply is helpful. Yet, the original cap / bearing that snaps into the bottom came out with the steering shaft and I can't get it to slip off the shaft, making me wonder if there is something I'm missing as to how its fixed on. What did you use in place of it?

Thanks again and now you REALLY have me looking forward to dealing with the top end, when it comes to reassembly.

EDIT: looks like you picked up the lower bearing part from Bronco Graveyard for a '74+ application? Do you recall how it fit in and stayed in in the column housing?

 

The bearing should just slide off the shaft.
And yes, I used the bearing kit from Bronco Graveyard. The bearing is a snug fit in the column tube and the steering shaft slides in through the bearing, it's a slip fit.
The bearing housing itself is tapped into the housing with a hammer. The installation instructions give you two choices on how to retain the bearing. You can either use the supplied self-tapping screws or weld it in.
With the screws, you drill three holes through the tube and the bearing housing and then screw the self-tapping screws in.
I chose to tack weld the housing to the column tube. According to the instructions, this is the preffered method.
The picture I posted may be a little confusing. The three screws in the picture retain the bearing in the housing, this is how it comes from BG. The three screws I'm talking about go through the column tube, into the shoulder of the retainer. This retains the bearing in the column tube. Thise are the ones I didn't use. I tack welded the housing instead of using the screws.

 

It's not too clear in the picture, this is the clearest picture I could find, but the original "bearing" in my column was a plastic bushing that had a lot of slop in it. The replacement plastic bushing had just a much slop as the original. That's why I went with the JBG bearing.