What Power Adders are going to give me power I can feel
#1
What Power Adders are going to give me power I can feel
I currently own a 2000 f250 sd 7.3 srw crew cab 4x4 automatic transmission. I have installed a 4" STRAIGHT PIPE Banks wastegate actuator 6.0 intercooler s&b cai TS performance 6 position tuner a aftermarket ato trans cooler and glowshift pyro boost and trans temp guage.
I'm looking for some go fast parts but need some advice on choosing what part in the order of installation. Was looking at a reg return and fuel bowl delete and air dog 2 . Gtp38r. Anything else that could help get me reliable power ? This is my first post on here BTW
I'm looking for some go fast parts but need some advice on choosing what part in the order of installation. Was looking at a reg return and fuel bowl delete and air dog 2 . Gtp38r. Anything else that could help get me reliable power ? This is my first post on here BTW
#2
Welcome to FTE. The 38r will give you power you can feel. So will getting different tunes burned on your TS chip.
The fuel mods won't help you go faster, but they might add to the longevity of your vehicle. I don't have the fuel bowl delete, regulated return, or an airdog on mine, but I've only got 543,000 miles on it so maybe those are things that will make yours last longer.
The fuel mods won't help you go faster, but they might add to the longevity of your vehicle. I don't have the fuel bowl delete, regulated return, or an airdog on mine, but I've only got 543,000 miles on it so maybe those are things that will make yours last longer.
#4
Welcome to FTE and to the Super Dooper brethren.
Injectors with cutom tunes, your call on what your truck primary use will be, this will determine the size of injector, turbo, and other mods need to be done to compensate for the added power.
Look at my sig, its an obs but same concept, lots of power with good daily, tow, and ricer killer.
Injectors with cutom tunes, your call on what your truck primary use will be, this will determine the size of injector, turbo, and other mods need to be done to compensate for the added power.
Look at my sig, its an obs but same concept, lots of power with good daily, tow, and ricer killer.
#5
Welcome to FTE and to the Super Dooper brethren.
Injectors with cutom tunes, your call on what your truck primary use will be, this will determine the size of injector, turbo, and other mods need to be done to compensate for the added power.
Look at my sig, its an obs but same concept, lots of power with good daily, tow, and ricer killer.
Injectors with cutom tunes, your call on what your truck primary use will be, this will determine the size of injector, turbo, and other mods need to be done to compensate for the added power.
Look at my sig, its an obs but same concept, lots of power with good daily, tow, and ricer killer.
I basically don't tow . I just want to hot rod around when the wild hair tickles
#6
Tool number one - Gauges:
Once you're sure the vehicle is already giving all that it can, you'll need tool number two - BuckZooka:
The transmission will be the first weak link. You can be preemptive with this, or wait 'til you break it with too much toying... but I opted to have it addressed on my schedule. Once you cross a threshold for power, the back springs allow too much wrap, to endanger the driveline and the rear end. Traction bars are appropriate when you get bigger injectors. It's not unusual to drop $4000 to $6000 under the frame in fuel, transmission, and suspension mods - just to allow the rubber to rip the road without regret. I speak from experience here:
If you're braced to spend $10,000 - we have all kinds of safe suggestions. If you're looking for a cheap high - a tuner, air mods, and a hutch mod is about as far as you'd want to go with about 600 ft/lbs of torque. Gauges are a must when you power up, though.
Once you're sure the vehicle is already giving all that it can, you'll need tool number two - BuckZooka:
The transmission will be the first weak link. You can be preemptive with this, or wait 'til you break it with too much toying... but I opted to have it addressed on my schedule. Once you cross a threshold for power, the back springs allow too much wrap, to endanger the driveline and the rear end. Traction bars are appropriate when you get bigger injectors. It's not unusual to drop $4000 to $6000 under the frame in fuel, transmission, and suspension mods - just to allow the rubber to rip the road without regret. I speak from experience here:
If you're braced to spend $10,000 - we have all kinds of safe suggestions. If you're looking for a cheap high - a tuner, air mods, and a hutch mod is about as far as you'd want to go with about 600 ft/lbs of torque. Gauges are a must when you power up, though.
#7
Tool number one - Gauges:
Once you're sure the vehicle is already giving all that it can, you'll need tool number two - BuckZooka:
The transmission will be the first weak link. You can be preemptive with this, or wait 'til you break it with too much toying... but I opted to have it addressed on my schedule. Once you cross a threshold for power, the back springs allow too much wrap, to endanger the driveline and the rear end. Traction bars are appropriate when you get bigger injectors. It's not unusual to drop $4000 to $6000 under the frame in fuel, transmission, and suspension mods - just to allow the rubber to rip the road without regret. I speak from experience here:
If you're braced to spend $10,000 - we have all kinds of safe suggestions. If you're looking for a cheap high - a tuner, air mods, and a hutch mod is about as far as you'd want to go with about 600 ft/lbs of torque. Gauges are a must when you power up, though.
Once you're sure the vehicle is already giving all that it can, you'll need tool number two - BuckZooka:
The transmission will be the first weak link. You can be preemptive with this, or wait 'til you break it with too much toying... but I opted to have it addressed on my schedule. Once you cross a threshold for power, the back springs allow too much wrap, to endanger the driveline and the rear end. Traction bars are appropriate when you get bigger injectors. It's not unusual to drop $4000 to $6000 under the frame in fuel, transmission, and suspension mods - just to allow the rubber to rip the road without regret. I speak from experience here:
If you're braced to spend $10,000 - we have all kinds of safe suggestions. If you're looking for a cheap high - a tuner, air mods, and a hutch mod is about as far as you'd want to go with about 600 ft/lbs of torque. Gauges are a must when you power up, though.
I a have glowshift guages. Pyro trans and boost . I will absolutely spend 10 k on my baby . What are some good trans mods
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#8
For low cost, JW valve body (more to firm up the shifting) and bill it torque converter, for more lasting solution a BTS or JW (John Woods) built trans, BTS typically will build for truck pulls...others may have furth ideas, just be prepared to start heating up the Buck$Zooka...you will need it...
#9
If you're looking for big power $10k isn't going to do it safely. You're talking more $$$. A T4 turbo, big sticks, dual hpop, transmission, a lot of gauges!.... ooo you're already over $10k and your bottom end is a weak link even if you have forged rods!
#10
Welcome to FTE! We LOVE to help people spend money on their trucks!
First things first, just for nomenclature clarification, the term "power adder" is defined as adding a turbo, a supercharger, or nitrous oxide to a vehicle. Since you're looking to go faster by adding parts not in that category, what you're looking to do is modify your rig with "go-faster" parts.
So, how much are you wanting to spend?
Just remember, as you add stuff like injectors, turbo, tunes, etc, other parts will need to be upgraded too. It all depends on how far you want to push the envelope from stock.
Stewart
First things first, just for nomenclature clarification, the term "power adder" is defined as adding a turbo, a supercharger, or nitrous oxide to a vehicle. Since you're looking to go faster by adding parts not in that category, what you're looking to do is modify your rig with "go-faster" parts.
So, how much are you wanting to spend?
Just remember, as you add stuff like injectors, turbo, tunes, etc, other parts will need to be upgraded too. It all depends on how far you want to push the envelope from stock.
Stewart
#11
For low cost, JW valve body (more to firm up the shifting) and bill it torque converter, for more lasting solution a BTS or JW (John Woods) built trans, BTS typically will build for truck pulls...others may have furth ideas, just be prepared to start heating up the Buck$Zooka...you will need it...
Haha . So as far as built trans . Do I send mine in or what . Its a ford reman 4r100 20k on it . For some reason if I go past the 75hp tune on my ts performance chip it slams into gear. Not cool .
#12
I'm sticking with a gtp38r power Range . This is my dd I work construction and travel around texas Louisiana Mississippi alabama welding pipe . Average about 2500 a week . What are the best injectors for hot rodding with a gtp38r and supportive mods
#13
Welcome to FTE! We LOVE to help people spend money on their trucks!
First things first, just for nomenclature clarification, the term "power adder" is defined as adding a turbo, a supercharger, or nitrous oxide to a vehicle. Since you're looking to go faster by adding parts not in that category, what you're looking to do is modify your rig with "go-faster" parts.
So, how much are you wanting to spend?
Just remember, as you add stuff like injectors, turbo, tunes, etc, other parts will need to be upgraded too. It all depends on how far you want to push the envelope from stock.
Stewart
First things first, just for nomenclature clarification, the term "power adder" is defined as adding a turbo, a supercharger, or nitrous oxide to a vehicle. Since you're looking to go faster by adding parts not in that category, what you're looking to do is modify your rig with "go-faster" parts.
So, how much are you wanting to spend?
Just remember, as you add stuff like injectors, turbo, tunes, etc, other parts will need to be upgraded too. It all depends on how far you want to push the envelope from stock.
Stewart
It's my dd. I want too keep a gtp38r not any bigger . So basically what I need to maximize performance of a gtp38r. I'm willing to spend as much as it takes to get me reliable daily driven 500hp . I need injectors but don't know wtf I'm looking at so could yaw give me a hand
#14
Okay, so you are right in my wheelhouse then. HD4R100 from Ford, about $4,000 plus whatever install will cost, the 38R approximately $1500, and a set of your favorite 160cc 80%over nozzles, $1600-$2000 and an S&B intake $300ish. Add your favorite 4 inch exhaust $300-$500 and you have a fun fun fun rig. Tuner with 5-6 tunes $450ish$7,500ish and money for the problems these upgrades to power production may expose...$500-$600 for Terminator mod'd HPOP, $120ish ICP, $40ish CPS, $200ish IPR sensors, then go from there.
#15
Okay, so you are right in my wheelhouse then. HD4R100 from Ford, about $4,000 plus whatever install will cost, the 38R approximately $1500, and a set of your favorite 160cc 80%over nozzles, $1600-$2000 and an S&B intake $300ish. Add your favorite 4 inch exhaust $300-$500 and you have a fun fun fun rig. Tuner with 5-6 tunes $450ish$7,500ish and money for the problems these upgrades to power production may expose...$500-$600 for Terminator mod'd HPOP, $120ish ICP, $40ish CPS, $200ish IPR sensors, then go from there.