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Hi all, just purchased a 2006 E-350 15 passenger van. ~85000 miles
As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on, as expected. However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off.
There are two ways I've found to make the light go off:
1. Reach a speed of 10mph
2. Wait several minutes (i haven't timed it yet, maybe 10 min?) without opening a door
I've read that the keyless entry remote can control this, but this van isn't equipped with keyless entry.
There must be some factory setting that can be adjusted. Any ideas?
Two other quick questions:
1. Is there an easy and reliable way to add an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD deck?
2. Is there a way to open the side mirror housings to tighten the convex blind-spot mirrors which are loose??
I tried to fix this issue on previous E van. Unsuccessful.
I was able to wrangle the mirror most of the way apart - to no real helpfulness.
Somehow I did successfully remove the small mirror but upon inspection I was unable to come up with any idea how to make it stay. (Except wedge some paper under it to get it to stay up).
I tried to fix this issue on previous E van. Unsuccessful.
I was able to wrangle the mirror most of the way apart - to no real helpfulness.
Somehow I did successfully remove the small mirror but upon inspection I was unable to come up with any idea how to make it stay. (Except wedge some paper under it to get it to stay up).
haha, yeah the paper was gonna be my short term fix. i was considering getting a tube of silicone gel of some sort and just filling in the gaps to make it stay put.
As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off.
Can you reliably repeat those steps each time to extinguish the dome lights?
There are three control devices that might be at fault here; Vehicle Security Module, Battery Saver Relay & Interior Lamp Relay. I'd post this portion of your question in the Electrical & Wiring sub-forum here, should be plenty of similar situations in F-Series that might prove helpful.
BTW the rear doors should also actuate the dome lights---that might be a simple replacing of the switch in that location.
Originally Posted by bb1982
1. Is there an easy and reliable way to add an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD deck?
DIY for this requires digging into the unit breaking solder traces, adding wiring leads and physically installing the connector in the unit's case. OTOH several fairly reputable sellers on eBay offer this already done at reasonable prices, just one example: Ford 2006 Crown Victoria Car Radio Am FM w Aux iPod Input 4 Speaker Version | eBay
Originally Posted by bb1982
2. Is there a way to open the side mirror housings to tighten the convex blind-spot mirrors which are loose??
I'm fairly adept at dismantling those assemblies but sadly once those small worthless elements start flopping around there's not a lot to be done. Personally I replaced those type mirrors with the 2007 and later versions like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331863758361?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Direct fit, no modifications required, available in both powered and manual. These are NOT the telescoping towing mirrors though.
I did add a spot mirror about double in size of the smaller stock mirror---much much better visibility now most notably in the typical blind spots right next to us.
I just went through the "auxiliary input on the radio" decision... My conclusion was that it was cheaper and easier to replace with an aftermarket unit. The upside was that I also got Bluetooth connectivity, microphone for speakerphone through stereo, and remote control (benefit of that one is questionable, LOL!). Installation was extremely simple.
I went through crutchfield which is more expensive, but their support is second to none, and they were a prior client of mine so I have some allegiance. Cost was $120, but could have been sourced elsewhere for around $100 for the same unit. It was worth the $20 to me. Units under $100 are readily available.
I'm convinced that every radio out there is made by the same maufacturer (look at the controls layout and back panel layout/outputs on all of them...coincidence?), so even the lesser cost ones are probably equally as good.
As far a floppy mirrors go...
In the past I've stuffed foam behind them
on my 86 vette it has lasted over 15 years
it's kind of mickey mouse but it worked and I forgot about it until now
Can you reliably repeat those steps each time to extinguish the dome lights?
I've owned the van for less than a week, still learning some of it's quirks. It seems like it has the same pattern of not turning the lights off each time. I'll post this question in the aforementioned thread.
DIY for this requires digging into the unit breaking solder traces, adding wiring leads and physically installing the connector in the unit's case.
Are there instructions for this somewhere? I opened the deck up, but nothing on the circuit board is labeled. I can solder if I know exactly what to do, but I have no idea where to start.
I've read online about a part (around $85) called a PIE adapter. I believe this plugs into the back of the unit where it is designed to have a satellite radio plug in. Any thoughts about this?
I just went through the "auxiliary input on the radio" decision... My conclusion was that it was cheaper and easier to replace with an aftermarket unit. The upside was that I also got Bluetooth connectivity, microphone for speakerphone through stereo, and remote control (benefit of that one is questionable, LOL!). Installation was extremely simple.
I've been considering an after-market deck. I'd prefer to have the stock stereo (or one that appears to be) just to make it less desirable to thieves. I am not 100% against the idea, but if I can find a way to mod this one...
As far a floppy mirrors go...
In the past I've stuffed foam behind them
on my 86 vette it has lasted over 15 years
it's kind of mickey mouse but it worked and I forgot about it until now
Yes! I'll try that first. Even better than silicone or paper. $85 bucks per side for the replacement seems a bit steep.
Markings on any PCB would be extremely rare----manufacturers don't want anyone screwing with their products for a lot of reasons.
The link I provided for an already-modified auxiliary port added is the fastest, easiest and relatively inexpensive way to have that feature. Otherwise going the Crutchfield route is another hassle-free way to get a more modern radio that's VERY easily swapped into almost any E-Series dash.
As for your mirror situation----the $85 part shown is for the entire mirror, complete. If that's out of the budget improvise by whatever means you think will work well enough. (I don't perform "make do" repairs so can't really help trying to rehab a part that's cheap to replace.)
haha, yeah the paper was gonna be my short term fix. i was considering getting a tube of silicone gel of some sort and just filling in the gaps to make it stay put.
My '88 had the those factory hangers on it with a plain flat mirror. I mounted a rearview wide angle camera on the hanger and the monitor on the inside mirror. Great view of everything on that side. The camera was about 20 bucks on Amazon. jim
(I don't perform "make do" repairs so can't really help trying to rehab a part that's cheap to replace.)
Then you haven't lived !.....
Foam was free , mirror was over 300 bucks
At the time I just needed a quick fix,
Another time I had to cut a flashlight up to make a repair in a radiator hose
McGyver'ing is fun!
Oh I've "lived" through a few of those innovative fixes---they're interesting needless to say. Admittedly its great fun rehabbing something thought to be impossible to repair, defeating "da man" so to speak!
These days money is good enough and time short so its better to swap in new stuff when something wears out or breaks.